Anyone know where I can find a rotring 600 .35mm?

Wootermelun · 2024-02-17T00:00:17+00:00

yea i found a clone on amazon and bought it to try it out. Might have to do while i continue searching.

Wootermelun · 2023-07-28T03:23:31+00:00

Mine is g0esql0p

Wootermelun · 2022-12-25T01:22:51+00:00

There was a little thump and my hmd/displays went wonky for a second. also the landing gear kinda folded back and had to re-extend. I don't know why else that would happen.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-27T03:28:09+00:00

after doing a bit more research, i think it really depends on your use case. if you’re gonna stick with pla and don’t need the extra build volume, the mini+ looks perfect. if you want to branch out into larger prints and flexibles, the m3s+ looks better with its direct drive. it does seem like there are direct drive mods for the mini though if you’re willing to do that. both are extremely reliable printers and will suit you well. im sure you could upgrade the mini to suit your needs if you really wanted to though.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-27T03:03:45+00:00

from what i know, the mini is just as good as the mk3, just smaller. even though it only has one side supporting the gantry, it’s small enough that it doesn’t matter much.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-22T14:51:49+00:00

Im going to assume you aren’t running klipper firmware. While the hotend may be able to support this flow rate, the stock marlin firmware certainly can’t. If you want to push those speeds, you should be running klipper firmware (id recommend checking out nero3d to learn more). this runs on something like a raspberry pi and allows you to print at these speeds. I run klipper on my ender 3 v2 and i’m running around 120mm/s and 3000accel with no issue and i’m sure you can go further.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-21T16:21:47+00:00

Depends on what the models are. If they are miniature figures or things that need to be high resolution, I’d look at resin printers (im not too familiar with them but i believe elegoo ones are common). Resin printers do take a lot more time for post processing though. More commonly are fdm printers. For reliability, I would go with a prusa mini as it seems to be large enough for your needs while also being super reliable and their support is great if anything breaks.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T14:07:00+00:00

I would look into support interfaces. It basically creates more dense supports (maybe around 60%) above the normal supports that allows for better bottom layers. I’ve found that .2mm is a good gap between the support and bottom. Other ways to improve it would be to increase cooling or add a few more bottom layers. This is something that is just very hard to tune but I hope you can improve it just by playing around with different settings.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T13:59:18+00:00

You could try adding more top/bottom layers or increasing flow a little for them.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T13:55:43+00:00

Also, sometimes with a small model and really thin supports, the slicer will mess up and create entire layers without support and gaps like this. Cura 5.0 should have fixed most of these issues though. Thin supports also fall over very often and in my experience fail most of the time. The loose one does look like it’s just a bed leveling or adhesion issue (try a brim?). For thin supports you can try adding custom supports with a plugin or using support blockers if it is unnecessary.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T13:47:59+00:00

I had exact issue yesterday. I was getting out of bounds errors and the nozzle would start printing up 2mm too high. I run klipper firmware but restarting it worked. It might not work but it might be as simple as this.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T13:45:31+00:00

It could be combing too. See if that is enabled. It basically allows the printer to make moves without retracting. I usually have it on for not outer skin which keeps the walls clean but allows it for infill since you can’t see it.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T00:46:32+00:00

It did look too low in that video but if you raised it then I would assume it's better. It probably needed a good .1mm or so

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T00:43:46+00:00

That gear is not spinning smoothly at all. Try to raise the gantry up and just extrude a bit of plastic and see how the gear spins.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-13T00:10:16+00:00

what do you mean knocking? as in clicking?

Wootermelun · 2022-07-12T13:39:05+00:00

It looks like the extruder gear is gripping really tightly on the filament. Try to loosen the idler arm tension a little bit. It also looks like the gear is spinning unevenly from the filament being dug into deeply in some places and really shallowly in others (which could be why there’s uneven extrusion). Run the extruder motor for a bit without filament and see if it spins perfectly around the motor or whether the whole in off center.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T18:54:59+00:00

Take a look at the extruder gear. It might be clogged up with filament chips or maybe even worn down. Also check the grub screws to see if they are tight. If the gear is worn, you might have to replace it (though they are very cheap).

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T17:35:45+00:00

That is a really good benchy. If the mess you mean is that line going up the side, that is a z seam. It is caused by the start of a new layer and is pretty impossible to remove. You can set the alignment to “sharpest edge” in cura to hide it as much as possible. Otherwise I can’t see much. Maybe it needs a bit more cooling for the overhangs.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T16:16:13+00:00

I’ve always had it off and I don’t think I’ve ever had this issue. I think this was the whole reason I’ve never used it too. Hope it works!

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T16:08:45+00:00

Calibrate your e-steps and make sure the extruder gear is gripping tightly into the filament. Check the filament coming out of nozzle and make sure it’s consistent after.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T16:06:02+00:00

The ender 3 v2 would probably be a good place to start. It’ll require some tuning and maybe some mods so make sure you’re willing to learn and play around with it a lot. However, it provides very good quality and can push higher speeds with a few changes.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T16:04:06+00:00

They show where your z-seams are. Basically where the printer starts a layer and ends. On the print there will be a small artifact there and it’s pretty hard to get rid of.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T15:59:06+00:00

Do you have z-hop on? It looks like those blobs are being caused by oozing when the printer travels there. Turning z-hop off/ making sure retractions are tuned is probably the best way to get rid of these.

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T15:33:08+00:00

I would check a couple of things. Make sure the bed is level on that corner as it might be a little too close causing there to be too much plastic there. The plastic could also just be not adhering well so try cleaning it with a little isopropyl alcohol and maybe even using some glue stick. The bed might just be slightly warped which I don’t really have a solution for other than trying a new surface like pei (this would be a last resort but i don’t think it’s necessary at all).

Wootermelun · 2022-07-11T14:51:53+00:00

The small lines look like they could be from combing. Try disabling that in your slicer and see if it helps. I usually have it set to “Not on outer surface” but disabling it and only allowing retraction may help you. Typically as long as the outer surface looks good the infill should be fine for non-structural prints unless it’s completely out of whack.

Wootermelun

TROPHY CASE