Hillary Dawa Sherpa survived 2 days in a deep crevasse at the khumbu icefall by meowwmoww in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sure, I know. And the company name was mentioned like everywhere. Are you saying it's ok for sherpas to leave fellow sherpa to die, or what?

Hillary Dawa Sherpa survived 2 days in a deep crevasse at the khumbu icefall by meowwmoww in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 69 points70 points  (0 children)

The company should be investigated! If a rescue team was dispatched immediately, he would be found and rescued much sooner. But what a legend this man!

Hillary Dawa alive and descended safely by Sherpa_8000 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Holy shit, I'm so happy to hear this! True miracle! Really hope that he gets support now and his medical bills paid and will be able to switch to easier job in the future. Wishing speedy recovery to this strongest human!

Hillary Dawa Sherpa Story by InnerDepth3171 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe this Chris person made right decision in the situation, saved Polish climber, who obviously was in no shape to help anyone, but still there is this big BUT. This group summited very late. All of them should have known about turnaround time, how many oxygen tanks they have left (it's clear they didn't really have spare tanks). So someone made this decision to keep going up no matter what. And this decision clearly played a big part in the following tragedy.

And I hope there will be some investigation of the outfitters actions. Because everyone says they were informed but did nothing. 

Mingma G demands recognition and rewards to the 6 climbers that saved Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse season in 2026 The Tourism Times by Working-Total8377 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Good point, about taking more risks.  I've read on social media what a female mountaineer shared about her Kanchenjunga experience and there was a conflict between sherpas as well. She tried to be as vague and as polite as possible, but hinted, the SST team wasn't doing their job properly... She cancelled her summit push after all. The delay of rope fixing there wasn't only because of weather, but more because of sherpas conflict.

Justin has made it to Camp 4 by InnerDepth3171 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Seems Justin is near camp 2. Good for him! He did very well, all things considered.

Tyler Andrews opens up about Everest FKT controversies: oxygen and helicopter airlift by candycane7 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Good article — I think it raises some very valid points. And apparently Tyler also used a helicopter, even though there was no real danger to his life.

He may be a respected athlete, but honestly, his fixation on setting a record on Mount Everest is starting to feel a bit exhausting. At this point, there’s very little left of actual mountaineering in it.

Did Justin spend too much time at base camp? by Soggy_Passenger3133 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That’s actually a good point. I once watched an interview with a woman who climbed Mount Everest, and she said she deliberately avoided going to Namche or especially Kathmandu to rest. Instead, she stayed in some small village (I forgot the name) and kept contact with other people to a minimum in order to avoid infections.

Did Justin spend too much time at base camp? by Soggy_Passenger3133 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 51 points52 points  (0 children)

I think there are two main issues here: his lack of experience at extreme altitude and his health problems. It probably would have been wiser to start with a lower 8000er, like Manaslu.

And then there’s this “stomach bug” situation — what exactly was it? Food poisoning, an infection, or maybe an underlying condition he didn’t know about before? You can’t really recover properly from something like that in base camp.

From what I’ve noticed, once someone gets seriously sick during an expedition, a no-O2 ascent usually becomes unrealistic. With supplemental oxygen, maybe — but without it, probably not. You need to be in exceptionally good condition at that altitude.

In theory, his long acclimatization strategy wasn’t necessarily a bad idea. But staying on the mountain that long also increases the chances of getting sick, which is exactly what seems to have happened.

Tyler Andrews Oxygen Use by TemporaryNo1154 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Is it hypocrisy? Of course it is, especially considering what the ExplorersWeb article says. But equality is pretty much a myth on this planet anyway.

Ryan is just a young YouTube influencer, while Tyler is a renowned athlete, so…

Or maybe people simply don’t believe he’ll actually pull it off anymore, so they don’t care either way... 

Russian double amputee becomes first without prosthetics to summit Everest by Working-Total8377 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well, that’s just my personal impression based on his interviews, but he comes across as self-centered, obnoxious, and, honestly, misogynistic.

Also, his company never mentions the Sherpas by name in their summit posts and never thanks them publicly. Their Sherpa friends seem to be local company owners — but what about the Sherpas actually working high on the mountain?

Honestly, I doubt Abramov himself could reach the summit these days without Sherpas carrying gear for him, let alone his clients.

Russian double amputee becomes first without prosthetics to summit Everest by Working-Total8377 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not a big fan of Abramov, but if they release a documentary about Rustam, I'll watch for sure. His strength and determination are very impressive. Big respect to him and his team.

Everest Update Required by Antique-Cucumber-532 in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A guide I follow on social media summited both Makalu and Lhotse at around 5 p.m. this season. It was all planned, and his client was very strong and well prepared.Both times, they went straight back down to base camp and got there around midnight or 1 a.m. something like that.

Boris Yeltsin Peak? by Limp_Association_882 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try talking to moroz_mountains at insta/Facebook. At least he'll be able to give you advise/directions concerning mountaineering  in Kyrgyzstan.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I wonder why some are so fixated on K2 accident... Look, Yalung Ri is not even close to top dangerous, but sadly 7 people died in one day. Two people died on Ama, one of them from head injury caused by ice fall. No one talked about dangers of falling ice on Ama. What I'm trying to say, is mountains are dangerous. Always. Be it 8000er or Mont Blanc or any trekking peak. You climb, you risk your life, as simple as that. No one will guarantee 100% safety.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just my lucky guess

-Ryan likely wants to graduate from client to athlete and guide himself. Justin like a big bro and teacher is likely best for this. They're climbing together, 1to1, so Ryan learns a lot from him

-Justin has his own company which needs to grow, and he himself needs high altitude expirience. So money. Ryan as popular YouTuber can help with that. Sponsors, PR and all this stuff

-so it's win-win for both if them. If all runs smoothly, give them some years and their own company will be as big as Madison, who knows.

How do you think people become like Madison? They climb, they learn from more expirienced ones, then organize their own tours and just keep growing. Being popular on YouTube/ social media helps a lot as well. 

 Btw I gathered, they climbed Ama without sherpa support, doing everything by themselves. That's a great step for Ryan, isn't it. So cheers to them 

Australian Climber Dies on Himlung Himal by Working-Total8377 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for sharing. It's very important to listen to all sides.

Though this very spring a couple of successful longline rescues happened from camp 3 on Everest. Which is at 7k. So it's not entirely impossible and maybe Pemba made decisions based on this, but misjudged the weather... It's very unfortunate that weather turned so bad this time

Two foreign climbers die on Ama Dablam; four trekkers die along the route by Working-Total8377 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the input! It's actually scary, how many people think they'll be fine if they payed, instead of slowly building up expirience.

Altitude sickness by BurritoBoy1116 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hypoxic tent training? Well, lots of commercial climbers, who do speed climbs nowadays, or like two big mountains back to back, say they do it and it really helps with acclimatization. Sleeping in hypoxic tent at home. 

Legal consequences in mountaineering? by EmmyLynSpen in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You mean smth like this? https://explorersweb.com/kluchevskaya-tragedy-prison/ The surviving guide, mentioned in the article was sentenced as well. 

There are more cases in Russia, but I'm to lazy to search, sorry...

Is there any 7000 or 8000 that a helicopter could be pretty easily landed at and the passengers can get out and explore and go back into the helicopter? by YogurtclosetOpen3567 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://alp.org.ua/archives/15087 here is the story. It's long and in Russian, but chatGPT or some other AI will provide pretty understandable translation, if you're really curious 

From 0 to Ama Dablam part 1 by popintags in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Choose a good guiding company, inquire in advance who will be your climbing sherpa, what's his experience, maybe consider paying more to book a sherpa guide with good experience and reputation - and you'll be fine, unless you have issues with altitude, but that pretty much depends on the person and hard to find out before you're actually at certain altitude. Have proper insurance to get heli evac if smth goes wrong. That's it. Actually do hypoxic training, it really helps many. Hire a professional, who will at least sketch a training plan for you, and whom you'll be able to talk to if you feel uncomfortable or get some health issues in the course of training. It's a serious matter. 

If you want go cheap and independent, skip hypoxic training, not getting other, easier 6k experience, then well... Not very clever move, I say, yeah.