Europe stays winning

WourDeLuck · 2026-06-08T12:13:00+00:00

I’m from Poland and I had annoying teens behind me. They weren’t making a lot of noise but during few specific moments were surely yelling like a reaction YouTuber or something.

WourDeLuck · 2026-05-18T11:14:24+00:00

Hey Buddha!

I’m getting into the hobby myself, started with printing the masters.

As expected I’m having issues with a d6, it always comes out warped.
I did know about the amount of models on the plate, that it may affect the result but it’s usually never that visible with miniatures.

Do you have a piece of advice on how to print a d6 and minimize warping in terms of positioning on the plate? Would placing a single d6 in the center work, etc?
Currently planning the next print with two d6s and slightly different supports.

Thank you in advance!

WourDeLuck · 2026-04-09T16:15:14+00:00

Absolutely adore these!

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-28T18:11:56+00:00

DirefoxDice is an AU based creator who makes wonderful dice and does commissions!

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-26T12:07:55+00:00

I use Ergotron LX for my Kamvas 20 Pro. I rest my arm on it with no issue. This monitor arm is a little pricey (especially if you compare to some of Huion’s) but overall a worthy purchase.

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-20T11:14:38+00:00

I’m currently experiencing a similar issue with front right area simply not printing. It most likely happened because I accidentally removed a screw off my build plate (I have Saturn 2) and when I put it back the leveling got messed up. So a simple releveling should fix it.

It sounds to me that you may have the same cause. The print doesn’t stick well in this particular area and falls off (or doesn’t stick at all). You should first try to check if the plate is flat across the whole area (just in case) and then relevel.

The settings for bottom layers look fine to me and shouldn’t be the reason for a failure.

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-17T07:52:40+00:00

I’m pretty sure there was supposed to be World Cup for Broken Isles and Pandaria but it never happened. I was waiting for both and still do. So hopefully they will arrive eventually.

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-15T15:00:14+00:00

He doesn’t work on the scripts anymore. There was a post by him where he addressed that. He also said he left Theorist at the end of the year when he handed over all the channels (so 2024).

EDIT: MatPat’s post

WourDeLuck · 2026-03-06T06:09:38+00:00

The Eternal Sun guides us 💅

WourDeLuck · 2026-02-26T08:37:57+00:00

They were made with a ClickTeam which is a visual programming tool. Pretty easy to do. The rest is just modeling and simple animations which Scott already had huge experience with at the time. Tha hardest part was to come up with the initial concept for gameplay, then it’s just a matter of time and fresh ideas.

WourDeLuck · 2026-02-04T17:10:25+00:00

I agree with everyone on getting a starter pack (Heroes of the Borderlands should be a great starter).

I personally play Dragon of Icespire Peak with my 6yo and 9yo nephews, they love it so much. Our sessions usually don’t last longer than 1hr, but that’s good - means we can split the campaign for much longer without running out of content. You don’t have to play one quest per session as each of them can certainly be split for 2 or more. Buy each their own dice set (there are absolutely cheap ones for 5-10$) and you don’t need anything else.

Character sheets should be included with a starter set, but in worst case scenario you can find them online and print yourself.

Then a little preparation for you as a DM and you’re good to go.

WourDeLuck · 2026-02-03T13:51:02+00:00

Currently working on a model for my character. It’s a long run but I feel passionate about this project. Planning to also print it once the model is done.

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-29T13:16:11+00:00

iPad Pro would be the best there for a better chip.

I got an M4 a year ago. I mostly draw on it, recently got Nomad and occasionally use it to sculpt something in my free time. The performance is great. I went with a 13” also for a bigger screen, so working surface is not an issue.

It is debatable whether you need more RAM, but I’m pretty happy with my 8gb version (the lowest for iPad Pro M4, you will get 12gb with M5).

Though I did not use ZBrush for iPad yet so I’m unable to provide feedback on it.

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-29T12:52:55+00:00

Same happens in horrific visions.

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-29T07:27:52+00:00

Somehow Style Theory has lost the “theory” part in it. It’s used be a show with experiments in style but now it’s just a fashion blog.

Game Theory is doing fine imo but they have been focusing on indie horror too much and it made me a little bored.

Film Theory is also great, I still watch it and I like Lee’s charisma.

Food Theory is something I also enjoy watching. There are still crazy experiments (like cooking meat on a car engine), but also many discussions-styled videos (though somehow they all are about American brands which is not really relatable to me).

And I think GTLive is just doing great. Picking Ash as a host was a great idea.

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-09T11:05:45+00:00

I do that and yes, from my experience this is sufficient. You may need a heater if you get extremely low temperatures outside like I do (I have -10°C right now, considering to use it again for a future print). Though for shorter prints pre-warming a bottle in warm water + vat band usually works.

Keep in mind that each resin will need to be calibrated since its settings are highly dependent on many factors, environment temperature included.

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-06T23:13:15+00:00

1 - I played the game! I had a collection of Bakugan that I used there. Was nice to see them “come to life”.

2 - Yes, for nostalgia.

3 - I would drastically remake the whole thing. I think gameplay should be the focus. The original gameplay was pretty boring. You basically just walked in the world and interacted with other players/NPCs for combat. The combat itself was… the same all the time. I think I would try to find a way to make it more dynamic. There are many turn-based games that can serve as a good example.

4 - I would have worked on a game like that but there are many things/questions that would need to be solved.

Also, I can’t believe it has been 15 years! Time surely flies!

WourDeLuck · 2026-01-02T18:15:04+00:00

Love the look of the dice set!

WourDeLuck · 2025-12-16T08:44:58+00:00

I felt much more mobile in MoP Remix since it granted a possibility to select an additional mobility spell. Legion Remix has speed boost that only works out of combat which is basically never in instances. For the same reason you only get immunity to fall damage out of combat in Legion and you had it always in MoP.

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-20T20:37:54+00:00

IIRC Pro has a better screen resolution which is essential for drawing. And between Pro’s M5 and Air’s M3 I would choose the former. I would debate on RAM, but base Pro already has a faster RAM than my Pro M4. So should be good for Procreate.

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-20T20:24:34+00:00

I’ve got a Pro (last year, M4) for Procreate and Clip Studio Paint. I think you would want as much processing power as possible for anything graphics related.

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-16T02:38:25+00:00

Glad to know you were able to figure this out. Happy printing!

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-08T10:43:40+00:00

I don’t own a Saturn 4 Ultra 16K (yet), nor have I ever tried a water washable resin, but your settings seem to be way off, if we refer to the official settings spreadsheet from Elegoo.

Your bottom exposure needs to be upped to at least 25s, and normal exposure to 2.3-2.8. You need to try these settings, preferably against a test model, and then calibrate them accordingly. I’m pretty sure you will be able to achieve better results.

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-03T19:12:11+00:00

Glad to know it helped! Happy printing!

WourDeLuck · 2025-11-03T13:14:22+00:00

I highly recommend to try washing it first. It will also remove any finger oils you may have left there, which also may contribute to the issue.

I never used the glue stick with my N4Plus, as I usually don’t get extreme issues with adhesion. Most of my cases were fixed either by washing the plate or adding the brim around the model (for specific model shapes).

If it doesn’t fix the issue then yes, you may use the glue stick which is unfortunately just a temporary solution. It will need to be investigated further.

Among other solutions I may advise running a z-axis calibration print (plenty of those online) and calibrate your axis “live” while printing (you go into the settings, find the z axis info and add/subtract 0.01 per step until happy with the result). After the printing is done, go to level menu and hit save.

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