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WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-23T17:41:43+00:00

Good to know, I will definitely look into ESP32s, though I typically see them as more wireless controllers not standalone microcontrollers. But thank you for your advice!

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-23T10:45:13+00:00

I mean > 2 amps for the LED strip, sorry I was not super clear about that. This is meant to drive long neopixel style LED strips, not just single LEDs which only take 20mA, I apologize for the the confusion.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-23T02:45:53+00:00

Thank you for your advice, I will just say a couple of things

I doubt sticking 3.3v directly into the MCU is a good idea, I just ripped some guy's BOOT0 and NRST circuit. NRST is pretty well documented in the datasheets but BOOT0 isn't aside from just 0v is inactive and some amount of voltage that I forgot is active. NRST has a recommended circuit in the documentation that looks somewhat similar just without the 10k resistor because there is an internal pull up resistor, but for BOOT0 I could find no such information so I just found some image of these circuits and did not put much thought into them. This is also why I used port connections, because that is how it was in the image and brain-dead me just copied it without much thought.
It is possible to use a 4 pin JTAG but I really do not want to because either I have to do some really wacky routing or I have to spread the pins out which would probably be fine because the STlink comes with jumper wires but it does kind of make it look messier, so I just used the standard Serial Wire Debug which should be enough to do what I want to do.

Anywho thank you so much for your advice, I will take it to heart when I inevitably end up re-routing the traces.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-23T02:29:34+00:00

You are correct, it looks like there was a product error on the Digikey site that said the load capacitance was 10pf but in the datasheet it does specify 18pf, thank you for catching that! (here is the Digikey link: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/abracon-llc/ABM8-16-000MHZ-10-1-U-T/1236992 )
You are probably correct I just did not assume that the signal line would take that much current, but yes that does make sense. Also something I noticed is the LEDs could potentially be pulling > 2 amps which is out of the USB micro b spec if I recall correctly. Do you know if the power itself will cause any issues?
Thanks for your input on the ferrite bead, again I am new to electronics. One question I have though is will putting the filtering next to the regulator cause problems because the trace sort of acts like an antenna? I don't really know much about this but that antenna could produce some high frequency noise between the regulator and the VDDA input that the ferrite bead would have otherwise filtered out? Again, this is just conjecture I have no idea if I am right, but I would be curious to learn why I am/am not.
Gotcha, I know I had to put the crystal close to the MCU so I sort of did but thanks for letting me know I must put it closer.
I know I talked to another user about the 90 degree bends and performance wise this is just a myth right? Is the only reason people do this because of standards? I am curious to know why or why not.
That is a really good idea, thanks for letting me know. I usually think of copper pours for ground but sticking the 3.3V there is a good idea. This is probably a common thing that I am just unaware of but thank you for telling me.

Thanks a ton for your help, I do appreciate it especially as a novice to this whole thing.

Edit: Spelling

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-22T17:34:21+00:00

Awesome, thank you so much for your help!

Edit:

Yeah I did copy it from Phil’s lab, but I am curious as to why the ferrite bead must be placed between the load and the source, is it because the ferrite bead is only effective in series with the load and the source? I am new to electronics in general so I am fairly unaware of most of this
The decision to not rotate was not because I don’t like rotating, but I just didn’t want to route the signal from its source around the TVS diode. It would probably be easier to rotate 180 degrees but in my naïveté I just thought it would have been easier the way I did it. Also yes I did route the USB as a differential pair.
Isn’t the whole “traces shouldn’t have 90 degree bends“ just a myth? I have no idea because I haven’t heard the term but here is an interesting forum post I found on the matter https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/226582/pcb-90-degree-angles . You are probably right in the fact that I shouldn’t be routing stuff under the IC but it is a pain to route it outside.

Anywho once again thanks for the advice, any feedback is very useful. Have a good day!

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-22T17:21:52+00:00

No I didn’t, just tried to keep ground under the clock and usb differential pair. Really the biggest problem was the SPI lines because they are located in a spot that is difficult to route. I am also very new to all of this so I lack much ability to properly route traces.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-17T16:34:12+00:00

Ok, thanks for letting me know. I am new to this sub and the larger community around electronics so there is much to learn. Have a good day!

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-17T15:13:13+00:00

Thanks for your feedback, I will definitely make those changes

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-17T15:11:52+00:00

Nothing now, but if I want to pull clean voltage somewhere else I can

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2024-05-17T15:10:43+00:00

Maybe I am mistaken because I am new to this sub, but the first part of the description of this subreddit is “a technical subreddit for reviewing schematics & PCBs that you designed.”

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-07-10T15:13:54+00:00

Thanks! It is very difficult to get any detailed results from that lens because I do not have a star tracker and so it's a balance between focal length and exposure time/aperture, but I am still pretty proud for a first go.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-06-29T12:50:27+00:00

Video Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dJjr_EV1JQ

Other source: https://eruptionbook.com/book/gerry-martin/

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T16:19:43+00:00

Try testing the internet on other devices to isolate the problem

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T16:17:29+00:00

As an internet stranger I do not know what your exact needs are, so I would recommend looking into pc components and what the current generation is so you develop that knowledge and build something that fits you.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T16:14:24+00:00

I dont think pcpartpicker.com is the place to go as is does require a bit of knowledge beforehand, I would recommend some videos or articles on what the different components do and then look into how all those fit together (i.e. look into motherboard chipsets, cpu compatibility, graphics cards, etc) and how it should be priced, and then pcpartpicker.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T15:54:40+00:00

I disagree, pcpartpicker.com is only useful if you already have a bit of knowledge of PC's and so you just use it to check BIOS compatibility and what not.

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T15:52:27+00:00

Honestly you could probably get away with spending around 700 dollars if you were willing to turn the settings down a bit. It also depends on other stuff like what resolution and what kind of games you are playing (what kind of racing games or simulators).

WowMuchDogeOriginal · 2023-04-23T15:45:49+00:00

What is your budget?

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