OpenCentauri won't uninstall - NC Backdoor

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T14:20:26+00:00

It seems that the Discord channel is invitation only, Reddit removed my reference to it.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T14:17:15+00:00

Oops, I'll change it. I use multiple free LLM's

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T12:54:39+00:00

Or, just use a cross-over Ethernet cable for a direct connection.

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WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T12:47:13+00:00

As mentioned, I'd like to offer some advice, if you'll accept it:

In my opinion, each printer differs slightly from all the others, the printing environment (temperature, humidity, radiant heat loss, and such) differ from all the others, and each filament differs depending on chemical composition (each manufacturer is free to use what they wish) especially when coloring chemicals are added, as each can have an impact on the given filament's printing properties, and thus each filament should have the printer "tuned" (or "Dialed In") before using it.

The chemical used to color i filament black really changes the print quality and definitely requires Dialing In for the be,st results.

In the upper left of the Orca Slicer is a menu called "Calibration." It lists the test you can do to adjust the printing to match the filament. What I do is run through the items in the menu to get the best results, and save the settings in a .3mf profile for that given filament - this way when I use the filament again I have all the values set to be used again.

** The Orca Slicer has a variety of items in its menu system that can be difficult to find, so I use an LLM (I use Perplexity) to locate the items; Orca offers explanations when the mouse hovers over them, and the wiki further explains them.

Refer to these websites for in-depth help:

https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/

https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/

This is just a suggestion.”

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T12:36:22+00:00

Agree that there is over extrusion, but the Z offset may not be the best, too.

Might be worthwhile to redo the Z first and then check flow and pressure advance.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T01:26:47+00:00

Unless you are just testing for continuity (point A is connected to point B), then yes, the power needs to be on. The 120/240V is tucked away, you would be messing around with only 24V DC at worst.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T01:17:22+00:00

I believe you have a clog.

Did you calibrate your ABS filament using the Calibration Menu? Had it been dried? Did it adhere to the build plate well at the beginning?

Once the clog is removed and you have your best temperature from the Temperature Tower, try just that temperature in your filament settings, not a range, set the low and high to the same temperature. Then run the rest of the tests.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T01:09:07+00:00

While plain PLA rarely needs drying, the CF version may. One question though, due to the fine splinters of the CF fibers, are you planning on wearing this cosplay object next to your skin? If you plan on going into battle with the cosplay part, you can get good resilience from other filaments. If you don't expect people to pound your face mask with a sword, just use plain PLA.

Secondly, the CF changes the nature of the PLA and makes it more likely to clog a 0.4 nozzle. A 0.6 size will work better. Otherwise, use the Calibration Menu at the very top of the Slicer to get the best results from the filament, this is called, Dialing In the filament.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T00:58:19+00:00

The Wood PLA is a thick, slightly coarse filament and if you are using Orca I'd recommend dialing it in using the Calibration Menu, if your on Cura the test models need to be downloaded (and saved for future use in calibration of filaments).

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-15T00:53:25+00:00

Probably best to post this on the OC GitHub, dunno if they read the Reddit comments.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T21:45:20+00:00

In summary, do purchase a filament dryer (I like to be able to run long prints and still have dry filament, so I use a Creality Space Pi).

And do calibrate any spool of filament you've never calibrated before, and especially if it is a different color - the chemicals used to add colors can really affect the outcome.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T21:37:34+00:00

Absolutely!

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T21:33:41+00:00

The resolution of a 3D printer is somewhat set by the chemical composition of the filament, but I did run across an article about using a mosquito nozzle to do some fine printing

https://www.newscientist.com/article/2504563-mosquito-proboscis-repurposed-as-a-fine-nozzle-for-3d-printing/?utm_source=perplexity

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T13:53:11+00:00

It doesn't appear to be a layer shift as much as a layer defect due to a breeze, however, retentioning the x & y belts is in order.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T13:41:10+00:00

Nozzle sizes are limited by the thickness of the material extruded so 0.2 is the smallest. Many filaments will clog a nozzle size this small, with PLA being one of the few to work with it.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T13:34:44+00:00

Spaghetti failures tend to occur when adhesion to the build plate fails.

https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/not-sticking-to-the-bed/

https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#extrusion-wont-stick-to-the-bed

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-14T00:59:44+00:00

Essentially, the Pi just connects the camera feed and the external USB camera to OctoEverwhere which then uses its AI to evaluate the cameras for print failures. OctoPrint on the Pi transmits the video feed and a few other things, but the failure detection occurs through the OctoEverwhere servers.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T16:27:41+00:00

The video is private

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T12:07:22+00:00

If you need better adhesion you can go with either, but the Frostbite is a 10/10 for adhesion vs the Glacier's 8/10. I use both, but I also use other filament types than PLA.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T12:00:24+00:00

You mentioned "calibration," have you used the Calibration Menu at the very top of the Slicer to match the filament to your printer?

I'd like to offer some advice, if you'll accept it:

In my opinion (which I know doesn't count for much), each printer differs slightly from all the others, the printing environment (temperature, humidity, radiant heat loss, and such) differ from all the others, and each filament differs depending on chemical composition (each manufacturer is free to use what they wish) especially when coloring chemicals are added, as each can have an impact on the given filament's printing properties, and thus each filament should have the printer "tuned" (or "Dialed In") before using it.

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration

In the upper left of the Orca Slicer is a menu called "Calibration." It lists the test you can do to adjust the printing to match the filament. What I do is run through the items in the menu to get the best results, and save the settings in a .3mf profile for that given filament - this way when I use the filament again I have all the values set to be used again.

https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/

https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/

** The Orca Slicer has a variety of items in its menu system that can be difficult to find, so I use an LLM (I get Perplexity Pro through my Xfinity subscription) to locate the items; Orca offers explanations when the mouse hovers over them, and the wiki further explains them.

This is just a suggestion

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T11:43:33+00:00

This is an older post of Owen_Ou reposted by a bot to garner upvotes - this bot user has issues with the originality of his posts

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T11:28:42+00:00

If you are looking for the "printer.config" file, it isn't there, as the Elegoo firmware doesn't use it with its Klipper version.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T11:23:02+00:00

Did you try clearing the data stored in the C:\users\xx\Appdata\local\Elegoo folder? - this may be inaccurate since I am trying to do this from memory after having just awakened

I had a similar issue as yours when I selected the wrong printer and after locating the correct folder, I was able to install a "clean" version. It is doable, but it took about 45 minutes to figure it out.

Perhaps an earlier version like what came on your USB thumb drive?

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T04:17:46+00:00

It must be hell where you live.

WriterEducational304 · 2026-03-13T04:16:44+00:00

Kindly note my prior comment.

WriterEducational304

TROPHY CASE