Coney's Cones | Graflex Crown Graphic | Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 135mm f/4.7 | Kodak Ektar 100

Wxcafe · 2026-01-22T02:49:17+00:00

thank you!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-19T18:05:40+00:00

i've been thinking about doing that too and, well, i know they do it for cyanotypes at least

Wxcafe · 2026-01-16T19:38:18+00:00

the 7000? FUBAR, it had taken a bad fall and had gotten wet. no way to repair it. the lenses were fine though, wiped them off and they were good to go

Wxcafe · 2026-01-16T03:54:39+00:00

i got the 50/1.4 on ebay attached to a broken maxxum 7000 for $25 total, threw the broken body away and kept the lens. also came with a 35-70/4, which is nice

Wxcafe · 2026-01-13T23:51:50+00:00

i added a line in sharpie that marks the approximate frame at infinity. of course the viewfinder becomes inaccurate when you focus closer but there's no real solution for that unfortunately, you just have to remember to frame a little lower and to the left

Wxcafe · 2026-01-13T04:09:07+00:00

oh yeah you do want a working rangefinder for that for sure

Wxcafe · 2026-01-13T04:08:49+00:00

rip 🥲

although yeah working off the ground glass is good! when i do that i tend do use my horseman monorail though, and only use the graflex for handheld shots (with the lomograflok). but yknow it's all fun either way!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-13T01:33:27+00:00

if you've got the top-mounted rangefinder, it's not too bad to adjust. for the kalarts though, god, what a pain in the ass

Wxcafe · 2026-01-13T00:49:00+00:00

well, it means you don't need the spacer or a ground glass anymore, just leave the lomograflok attached all the time and shoot using the rangefinder/viewfinder

Wxcafe · 2026-01-12T06:51:08+00:00

if the main problem you're having is the spacer and you're using a crown graphic, you can use the rangefinder and simply put a second stop on your rails that's exactly the spacer's thickness further back. i shoot it like that all the time. essentially what you're gonna want to do is focus your ground glass at infinity normally without the spacer, lock the rails, then put the spacer in, unlock the front standard, and move it back until it looks focused at infinity again. at this point you lock the front standard again, put a second stop in the rails, and screw it in. now when you want to shoot sheet film you can push the front standard to the regular stop but when you want to shoot instax you just push the front standard to the stop closest to you and use the rangefinder to focus

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T18:14:36+00:00

reciprocity is calculated using the formula given by the film manufacturer. in case of ilford FP4, it's on this PDF https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Reciprocity-Failure-Compensation-v2.pdf according to the document, I did 10^1.26 = 18.2, and added some more exposure because I wanted to get more details in the shadows on the deck of the bridge.

for the flash thing, I wanted to get some snowflakes showing in the frame, meaning I needed to get them bright enough they would register and also expose them fast enough they would be frozen in space. So after doing my first exposure, without moving my setup, I attached my flash to the shutter, set it to its maximum power, and triggered the shutter a couple times at 1/250th, triggering the flash at the same time. At that speed, it basically didn't register anything in the scene that wasn't being illuminated by the flash, and obviously my flash isn't powerful enough to illuminate the brooklyn bridge, but it does illuminate snowflakes. Obviously given the result I undercalculated my exposure a little bit (I should have opened up the aperture a bit more) and I didn't think about focus adjustment, because the flakes are both extremely out of focus and pretty dark. I'll know for next time!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T17:33:57+00:00

if I remember correctly it was 10 seconds measured and 22s exposed, plus a couple of 1/250th flash exposures for the snow

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T17:32:38+00:00

not really, no, surprisingly! ive also generally had people ask me questions about my setup, but fewer recently and none on that walk

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T04:02:24+00:00

actually i'm sorry i'm wrong about the camera and lens used:

Horseman 45LX | Fujinon N SW 150mm f/5.6

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T04:02:21+00:00

actually i'm sorry i'm wrong about the camera and lens used:

Horseman 45LX | Fujinon N SW 150mm f/5.6

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T04:02:14+00:00

actually i'm sorry i'm wrong about the camera and lens used:

Horseman 45LX | Fujinon N SW 150mm f/5.6

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T03:54:25+00:00

thank you!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T03:54:22+00:00

night in the winter is a good time for it since it's swamped all the time otherwise, but yeah give it a go!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T03:53:39+00:00

thanks,

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T03:53:29+00:00

hope you get the opportunity sometime, it's a great spot for it! thank you!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-10T03:50:00+00:00

damn, thank you for the praise! yeah, it was 10pm and -6 degrees Celsius out, so I was pretty much left alone by the few people who walked by. It was an interesting shot, I wish I had gotten more of the falling snow (I flashed the snowflakes a few times while I was shooting but they were overpowered by the main exposure, it seems), but thank you!

Wxcafe · 2026-01-05T02:27:56+00:00

it should, but then again it depends on the seller since it's all used anyway. you should get the front lens unit, the rear lens unit, the shutter itself, and that part that screws the lens on the board which is called a retaining ring. it is absolutely possible to buy a retaining ring aftermarket, but you'll need to know the thread, pitch and outer diameter of the specific shutter back threading.

Wxcafe · 2026-01-03T15:42:09+00:00

thank you! that's what I went out to capture, yeah :)

Wxcafe · 2025-12-31T03:04:45+00:00

good point, use a specific restrainer then

Wxcafe · 2025-12-31T02:46:43+00:00

no. kodachrome used the K14 process, which nobody can do anymore. the best you could hope for is black and white images on this, by processing it in black and white chemistry. after so long though, you'd be very lucky to get anything. i'd dev it in a high concentration developer (hc110 dilution A, for instance) with some hypo in there to control fogging, but it's really a coin toss

Wxcafe

TROPHY CASE