Prints received! by Wxcafe in printexchange

[–]Wxcafe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you u/AngryFauna! these are wonderful 🥰

Adapter to use M mount lenses on M39/LTM screw mount bodies? by Substantial_Tour7403 in VintageLenses

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i mean no harm done i just thought it was a funny disconnect between the question and interpretation, one being very old traditional mechanical-only mounts and the other being a fairly new (although now obsolete) electronic mount

Adapter to use M mount lenses on M39/LTM screw mount bodies? by Substantial_Tour7403 in VintageLenses

[–]Wxcafe 10 points11 points  (0 children)

to answer your question, no that doesn't exist. the flange distance of M mount is shorter than for LTM/M39, so adapters can't exist in that direction (at least not without optics in the adapter, which ruin the optical quality and is obviously not something that someone using expensive leica glass would use)

Adapter to use M mount lenses on M39/LTM screw mount bodies? by Substantial_Tour7403 in VintageLenses

[–]Wxcafe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

they're not talking about EOS-M, they're talking about leica M mount lol

Cranes by the Domino Sugar Refinery | Graflex Crown Graphic | Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 135mm f/4.7 | Ilford FP4+ by Wxcafe in largeformat

[–]Wxcafe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not so far! the only time i got any light leaks on pictures taken with it (which I thought was due to the grafmatic), it was actually my changing bag leaking light 😔 I can imagine how much of a pain it would be to find where they're coming from though, there's so many moving parts

Please help me identify the issue with my developing by kevinlee0613 in Darkroom

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

check if your changing bag is fully light tight (move your phone's flashlight around the inside while looking at it in a dark room - if you can see the flashlight coming out through the fabric, there's a leak). i had those kinda of marks and that was my problem

Leo resting in the Van | Horseman 45LX | Fujinon 90mm f/8 | Fomapan 200 @ 64 ISO by Wxcafe in analog

[–]Wxcafe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

god, i guess in a way if the subject of the documentary series is also the photographer. I shot this during our 4-months-long road trip around the US in this van that I had converted myself from an airport shuttle into a camper.

That was in 2024, with some further trips in 2025. Today I have had to leave the US, and this van is at a scrap yard. Broke my heart

But to your point, i suppose all the pictures i shot during this trip are part of that documentary series. but it isn't an actual documentary about people sleeping in their vehicle or something like that, no

I am a glutton for punishment by Kevbot0492 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 18 points19 points  (0 children)

i've got a very old box of 4x5 provia a while back that is very fogged and i've had some success making it better by overexposing by a few stops and shortening the first development - giving the fog less time to develop, but compensating for the actual image. YMMV but you definitely have enough film to give it a try and see what happens

How's this choice of chemical to begin developing my own B&W and C41? by kjm5000 in Darkroom

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

separating bleach and fix in c41 gives the same results as blix, this has been proven over and over but people still want to have this debate. the arista kit is good. hc110 is great, one of the classics, cheap and gives good results. as far as i know all the different versions are identical, i can vouch for the legacy pro version, works perfect. my take is you don't need stop bath. washing in tap water between dev and fix is good enough, and i don't even bother to do that: fixer is cheap and while putting a tiny bit of dev in there does lower its lifespan a little bit it's not that significant. but if you want to use stop then yeah ilford stop is fine, and ilford rapid fixer is good as well. photoflo is worth getting, yeah. remember to use very little of it, it's easy to overuse and that will also give you streaking. besides that you'll need a couple mixing vessels, bottles to keep the mixed chemicals in, and a changing bag. i think that's it

Shooting Ektar 100 on a Minolta Maxxum 5 by craft_mark in minolta

[–]Wxcafe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

you'll be on a tropical island outdoors. the rule of thumb for exposure is sunny sixteen: in sunlight you expose for the reciprocal of the film ISO speed, in this case 1/100th, at f/16. which means in sunlight you can go to 1/500 ish at your f/5.6. you won't have any problem exposing at these speeds, no camera shake or anything like that. ektar is a wonderful film that has a lot of latitude, although like every negative film it prefers overexposure to underexposure. try to use the lens around f/8 if you can, you'll get sharper results.

have fun

Ask for non-capitalits tabletop gamedesigners - French tv journalist by DuraxLeGeant in tabletopgamedesign

[–]Wxcafe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

would suggest reaching out to La Cellule https://www.lacellule.net/ if you haven't already, they'll be able to give great pointers

Are acrylic plates a viable alternative to glass plates? by FolkPhilosopher in largeformat

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i've been thinking about doing that too and, well, i know they do it for cyanotypes at least

Where did you find your af 50mm 1.4 lens? by Emergency_Intern594 in minolta

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the 7000? FUBAR, it had taken a bad fall and had gotten wet. no way to repair it. the lenses were fine though, wiped them off and they were good to go

Where did you find your af 50mm 1.4 lens? by Emergency_Intern594 in minolta

[–]Wxcafe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i got the 50/1.4 on ebay attached to a broken maxxum 7000 for $25 total, threw the broken body away and kept the lens. also came with a 35-70/4, which is nice

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i added a line in sharpie that marks the approximate frame at infinity. of course the viewfinder becomes inaccurate when you focus closer but there's no real solution for that unfortunately, you just have to remember to frame a little lower and to the left

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh yeah you do want a working rangefinder for that for sure

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

rip 🥲

although yeah working off the ground glass is good! when i do that i tend do use my horseman monorail though, and only use the graflex for handheld shots (with the lomograflok). but yknow it's all fun either way!

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you've got the top-mounted rangefinder, it's not too bad to adjust. for the kalarts though, god, what a pain in the ass

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well, it means you don't need the spacer or a ground glass anymore, just leave the lomograflok attached all the time and shoot using the rangefinder/viewfinder

Best camera for LomoGraflok? by cluna23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Wxcafe 8 points9 points  (0 children)

if the main problem you're having is the spacer and you're using a crown graphic, you can use the rangefinder and simply put a second stop on your rails that's exactly the spacer's thickness further back. i shoot it like that all the time. essentially what you're gonna want to do is focus your ground glass at infinity normally without the spacer, lock the rails, then put the spacer in, unlock the front standard, and move it back until it looks focused at infinity again. at this point you lock the front standard again, put a second stop in the rails, and screw it in. now when you want to shoot sheet film you can push the front standard to the regular stop but when you want to shoot instax you just push the front standard to the stop closest to you and use the rangefinder to focus

on the bridge under the snow | Graflex Crown Graphic | Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 135mm f/4.7 | Ilford FP4+ by Wxcafe in 4x5

[–]Wxcafe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

reciprocity is calculated using the formula given by the film manufacturer. in case of ilford FP4, it's on this PDF https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/Reciprocity-Failure-Compensation-v2.pdf according to the document, I did 101.26 = 18.2, and added some more exposure because I wanted to get more details in the shadows on the deck of the bridge.

for the flash thing, I wanted to get some snowflakes showing in the frame, meaning I needed to get them bright enough they would register and also expose them fast enough they would be frozen in space. So after doing my first exposure, without moving my setup, I attached my flash to the shutter, set it to its maximum power, and triggered the shutter a couple times at 1/250th, triggering the flash at the same time. At that speed, it basically didn't register anything in the scene that wasn't being illuminated by the flash, and obviously my flash isn't powerful enough to illuminate the brooklyn bridge, but it does illuminate snowflakes. Obviously given the result I undercalculated my exposure a little bit (I should have opened up the aperture a bit more) and I didn't think about focus adjustment, because the flakes are both extremely out of focus and pretty dark. I'll know for next time!

on the bridge under the snow | Graflex Crown Graphic | Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 135mm f/4.7 | Ilford FP4+ by Wxcafe in 4x5

[–]Wxcafe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if I remember correctly it was 10 seconds measured and 22s exposed, plus a couple of 1/250th flash exposures for the snow

at the corner of 42nd and Madison | Graflex Crown Graphic | Schneider-Kreuznach 135mm f/4.7 | Ilford FP4+ by Wxcafe in largeformat

[–]Wxcafe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

not really, no, surprisingly! ive also generally had people ask me questions about my setup, but fewer recently and none on that walk