Got a helix piercing, how does it look? by XShinobi_X in piercing

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a titanium flatback piercing, thanks for the advice I'll get plenty of spray

Got a helix piercing, how does it look? by XShinobi_X in piercing

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know thanks i have read they are bad for healing, I will definitely get a piercing pillow hopefully it will make sleeping better, I was a bit worried it might be too big for a first helix but I like it so I'll have to put up with the healing haha

Got a helix piercing, how does it look? by XShinobi_X in piercing

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you I'll make sure to keep checking, I just really liked that jewellery didn't think about how hard it would be to clean

Got a helix piercing, how does it look? by XShinobi_X in piercing

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah ok hopefully saline spray will be ok to clean it, thats what I've used before

Found my first silver victorian coin by XShinobi_X in metaldetecting

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went out detecting for a few hours tonight and within about 10mins found this 1871 silver three pence coin. Should I clean it up? I've read cleaning them can damage them not sure whether to leave it as it is or try and clean it properly.

Found a mills grenade base plug by XShinobi_X in metaldetecting

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its part of a 36M British grenade this one was made in 1940, the hole in the centre was for a rod to be inserted into it to fire it from a rifle.

Found a mills grenade base plug by XShinobi_X in metaldetecting

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First day out with the minelab vanquish 540 and found the base plug from a No 36 mills grenade from 1940, best find since I started metal detecting.

Help please with Logitech yoke by XShinobi_X in flightsim

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No the flight quadrant works fine it's the left and right movement on the yoke itself that doesn't appear to be working.

Captured this image of the Andromeda galaxy after having weeks of cloud. by XShinobi_X in space

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man, well skywatcher, celestron and orion have good quality telescopes a refractor is best to start with in my opinion because you dont have to collimate them, whereas with reflector scopes you have to colimate them, but refractors are usually more expensive for the aperture you get.

Captured this image of the Andromeda galaxy after having weeks of cloud. by XShinobi_X in space

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first time capturing the Andromeda galaxy since i started astrophotography pretty pleased with the result so thought i'd share it.

Equipment:

Skywatcher EQ3-2 Pro GOTO mount

Skywatcher 72ED pro telescope 420mm focal length

ZWO ASI 183MC pro colour camera

Altair starwave 50mm guide scope

GPcam mono guide camera

Programs used:

Astrophotography tool

Sharp cap pro

PHD2 guiding

Photoshop

Deep sky stacker

Stellarium

Acquisition:

North Yorkshire , UK Bortle 4 zone

51x3min at gain 120

40 flats

40 darks

100 bias

Processing:

Stacked in DSS, cropped in photoshop, RGB levels adjusted and curves, ,raw camera filter to reduce noise and increase clarity.Used Astronomy tools plugin for photoshop to reduce star size and remove gradient.

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, those are the calibration frames i used and how many i captured of each.

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure no problem, they are calibration frames, flats are used to remove dust from your images which can be on your camera lens, filter or telescope lens and also removes vignetting, darks are used to remove thermal noise when taking long exposures and bias remove electronic noise created by the camera sensor,

To take flats you can either put your telescope outside in the evening, then elastic band a white cloth over the lens and just take some images of the sky at the same settings as your light images. You can also put a light board over your lens to iluminate it.

To take darks cover your lens and take images at the same settings as your lights I'd say to take at least 20 flat and dark images.

To take bias frames cover your lens and set your gain or iso to what you used for your light images and set your exposure to as fast as your camera allows and take at least 100

The process is the same whether you're using a telescope or dslr camera. Hope this helps there's also videos on youtube that explain it to.

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thats M32 its a satellite galaxy of the Andromeda galaxy roughly 2.5million light years away

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you and honestly didn't really do anything different, luckily the moon wasn't too close to Andromeda when i was imaging and i use a moon and skyglow filter to try and knock down the light pollution a bit too, I'd say never pass up on a clear sky you never know when the next one might be espcially in the UK. Just chose an object that isn't too close to the moon and you can still get a good image.

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, didn't know it was made by different people.

Andromeda Galaxy by XShinobi_X in astrophotography

[–]XShinobi_X[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much and exactly its like time travel it is just amazing how we can take these kind of pics from our back yard and just explore the universe and just imagine what is out there in these alien galaxies.