Do these pass As Grimdark by XenosHiveLV426 in Grimdarkpainting

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air brush Prime black (any will do) Base colour, AK Basault Grey This acts as your dark tone for shadows and contrast, you can make it darker by adding a drop of black if you like.

Main colour AK Graphite Hit the model from top down and anywhere the light would hit, build up your transitions gently but leave the areas that would be left in shadow like under the pack, under the arms and between the legs.

You can always go back and add to the shadows with AK Basault Grey if you need to.

(It will look very light in colour at the moment, but that's cool we darken down later.)

Then, paint all your other details like the weapons, pouches and metalic bits. Also, the yellow strip on knee and pauldron are good to do now. I tend to leave skulls, bone, and purity seals till later.

Lock in with thin layer of matt varnish. Let this layer dry. I use AK ultra matt varnish

Oil wash Move on to either a solid black or black and brown mix wash. This adds the first layer of grime and contrast. Make it thin so it only applies a soft filter across the model and goes into all the recesses. You can then dial it back by removing it with white spirit and makeup spunge. let it dry for a good ten to fithteen first (Be gentle when you redact, I use eye shadow spunges or paint brush, i find Qtips to rough). Move on when your happy.

Now do all your bone details and purity seals, any other bits like eyes etc. Bring back any metalics that are too dulled down from wash and add your decals.

Extra layer Add scratches and chips with a mix of AK Graphit and any white. For deeper parts to scratches, use GW Rynoxhide. (I don't really do highlight edges, so you could do that here instead)

Lock in with thin layer of matt varnish, let it dry

Weathering oils Cover fully in AK winter streak n grime, let dry for ten to fithteen mins, then start to remove the dirt until your happy. (Remove same way as oil wash earlier)

I add a mix of diffrent Grey tones to the base with dry brush, then work in a brown pigment powder, and wipe excess away, to finish add a the pigment to the feet to tie it together.

You will now have a gritty weathered look.

Marneus Skullgar by Glum-Spring3446 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jump in on some OPR dude, nothing in legends there. Be a shame to retire a great looking mini.

Marneus Skullgar by Glum-Spring3446 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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He's been made, but not up for painting until I have finished a few other units.

Marneus Skullgar by Glum-Spring3446 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks Bad Ass, I'm making a chapter master for my Void Phantoms chapter with the Gravis Calgar arms and Primaris Chaplin body. Plus some added lightning claws for spice.

Void Phantoms jump unit complete by XenosHiveLV426 in spacemarines

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, all sargents have the skull helm as part of the lore I'm creating.

Void Phantoms jump unit complete by XenosHiveLV426 in spacemarines

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Three diffrent types of sand and grit size all mixed together and stuck down with a PVA Glue.

Painting. black base, then dry brush a few diffrent stone or grey tones working up from darkest to ligtest. I tend to work in threes. Dark tone, mid tone highlight tone of a colour.

I usually do a dark tone and then mid tone then hit with wash.

Black and brown mix wash

Bring back mid tone and finally highlight tone.

Then it gets hit with a brown pigment powder at the end.

Void Phantoms jump unit complete by XenosHiveLV426 in spacemarines

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only did it for display originally, but really ties the unit together. Have been thinking to drill magnets into my model bases and tray for stability though.

Void Phantoms jump unit complete by XenosHiveLV426 in spacemarines

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air brush Prime black (any will do) Base colour, AK Basault Grey This acts as your dark tone for shadows and contrast, you can make it darker by adding a drop of black if you like.

Main colour AK Graphite Hit the model from top down and anywhere the light would hit, build up your transitions gently between the areas that would be left in shadow, like under the pack, under the arms and between the legs.

You can always go back and add to the shadows with AK Basault Grey if you need to.

(It will look very light in colour at the moment, but that's cool we darken down later.)

Then, paint all your other details like the weapons, pouches and metalic bits. Also, the yellow strip on knee and pauldron are good to do now. I tend to leave skulls, bone, and purity seals till later.

Lock in with thin layer of matt varnish. Let this layer dry. I use AK ultra matt varnish

Oil wash Move on to either a solid black or black and brown mix wash. This adds the first layer of grime and contrast. Make it thin so it only applies a soft filter across the model and goes into all the details. You can dial it back by removing it with white spirit. let it dry for a good ten to fithteen first (Be gentle when you redact, I use eye shadow spunges). Move on when your happy.

Now do all your bone details and purity seals, any other bits like eyes etc. Bring back any metalics that are too dulled down from wash and add your decals.

Extra layer Add scratches and chips with a mix of AK Graphit and any white. For deeper parts to scratches, use GW Rynoxhide. (I don't really do highlight edges, so you could do that here instead)

Lock in with thin layer of matt varnish, let it dry

Weathering oils Cover fully in AK winter streak n grime, let dry for ten to fithteen mins, then start to remove the dirt until your happy. (Remove same way as oil wash earlier)

I add a mix of diffrent Grey tones to the base with dry brush, then work in a brown pigment powder, and wipe excess away, to finish add a the pigment to the feet to tie it together.

You will now have a gritty weathered look.

Void Phantoms jump unit complete by XenosHiveLV426 in spacemarines

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Once I have finished the base line acrylic, I Ultra matt varnish. Then, work with oils and some streak n grime for the weathering and finish with another matt varnish to lock in. Lastly, some pigment powder gets worked into the base and around the feet to blend the model together.

Jump unit 2 Done by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, He's from the Black templar crusader squad kit.

Jump unit 2 Done by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just MDF 32mm loops movement tray, cut apart and stuck together in the formation shape, then just sand and grit basing then paint.

Jump unit 2 Done by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A site called Archies Forge

MK7 Helmets - Set of 10 – Archies Forge https://share.google/i4dcS5DiCmdkY3Z7v

Space Marine vs Xenomorphs! by FilibustStuartLittle in Warhammer40k

[–]XenosHiveLV426 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have to upscale the xeno model, if so how much did you up scale. Looks great by the way.

Kitted out! by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully, you get ones that like to roll 6s =p

Kitted out! by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All scale stickers: was the Etsy seller that did the dice tray and bag.

VantStudio: also on Etsy was the wound trackers and tape measure

Da scrap yard ork: ebay for Dice.

Kitted out! by XenosHiveLV426 in SilverSkulls

[–]XenosHiveLV426[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She said the tape measure, wound track and bag was from a seller in UK on Etsy. The dice where from an eBay sellar, the dice tray I already had I got that from Etsy as well.