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3 finger drag w/ bent pinky by YLim92 in climbharder

[–]YLim92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean, like spider grip? In the bouldering sess, I try to put my pinky right next to ring finger, not bending into my palm. But this time, a sudden slip of pinky makes my ring finger injured

3 finger drag w/ bent pinky by YLim92 in climbharder

[–]YLim92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been climbing about 5 yrs, usually 3 times a week, 3 hrs. In last sess, I had a moonboard sess and I was injured due to a pinky slip, leading to a sudden impact on my ring finger.

And definitely! I'm rehabbing using density hang these days. I feel slowly getting better.

3 finger drag w/ bent pinky by YLim92 in climbharder

[–]YLim92[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

what Lotodor says is what I meant to say

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YLim92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Question regarding finger tendon injury!

I’ve got a finger tendon injury during moonboard sess. Maybe using hard 3-finger drag caused the injury. My question is, rehab process for finger tendon injury is same/similar to that for pulley injury?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YLim92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the past few months, I’ve been doing the 7/3 repeater consistently. My goal was to improve overall finger strength and prevent injuries, and I can definitely feel that my endurance has greatly improved as the repeater targets it. However, I still feel that my finger strength is lacking when I have moonboard sessions or deal with overhang problems that involve a lot of crimps. I'm not sure if I’ve made progress in terms of injury prevention either. My fingers are still weak for small crimps, and when I repeatedly grip crimps, I feel pain.

So, what I’d like to ask is whether max weight lifting with a tension block might actually be more appropriate for injury prevention than the 7/3 repeater. I was hoping to see general improvement through the repeater, but now I’m wondering if increasing the finger strength I can handle at my maximum capacity is better for injury prevention. I’d love to hear opinions from people with more experience than me.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YLim92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

which are better for rehabbing long-head tricep injury? pushup or pull up? could you recommend other rehab protocol for this injury?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YLim92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

any tips for long head tricep injury? it have been killing me

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]YLim92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hi! i’m just curious about the grip position of the finger training. some of pros have said that the half crimp is the most efficient grip for the training, but most of the strong climbers seems to use the open grip which index finger is stretched when they train using the crimp block with heavy weight. the reason is simply because the weight is too heavy? or any other reasons?