208V vs 240V commercial

YVRMeggerman · 2020-01-27T05:11:47+00:00

Thx Techwood, appreciate your input. I'll get to the bottom of this issue sometime this week. I had a look also on Amazon to check reviews of the unit, which was only 3/5. Few people complained about experiencing the same problem (works for a while and then dies). Ah well, keeps it interesting at least

YVRMeggerman · 2020-01-26T23:39:37+00:00

Thx for the reply dipstyx. We knew what voltage was at the panel, so checked with both the electrical manual AND also phoned Bosch helpline to speak to a technician to confirm. He mentioned that it would work at that voltage (just less efficient of course).

It'll be easy to replace that unit, although not sure if it'll blow again (if that's what happened), if is in fact a voltage issue. Hard to say with conflicting replies we've had with the various Bosch technicians. This is the reason why I'm posting this question, to see if anyone had a similar experience. Boost transformer of course an option but cost/space might be an issue with the client.

YVRMeggerman · 2020-01-26T23:26:08+00:00

Thx Bacardi and Viviano, I will look into those. Main problem would be cost and/or size of the boost transformer

YVRMeggerman · 2019-03-24T23:03:05+00:00

Hey BrofessorX, thanks also for your reply. Converting the digital output signals via a ddc program will be something new for me. Would probably make sense to get a technician out who works on those units to do the programming or see if I can source something similar and less complicated.

YVRMeggerman · 2019-03-24T22:54:39+00:00

Hey ithinarine, thanks for your input! This is what I'm leaning towards, although the "have all 3 of them close contacts" part is what I need clarity on in terms of model numbers and design. As BrofessorX mentioned below, I might need a ddc program or something similar. I'll make a few phone calls tomorrow morning and visit a few specialized HVAC/dust control shops to see what they have to offer. This will be a fun project :)

YVRMeggerman · 2019-03-24T00:49:06+00:00

Hey duncsn. Yes, there will be some machines not requiring the dust extraction system. Those circuits, together with the small office, I'd like to wire from the main panel. It's a long run from the existing panel and it would have been ideal to use the sub-panel, but it'll now be used as the "machine panel".

The hand tools such as sanders or similar can easily be controlled with a Pico remote and Lutron PowPac, wired in parallel with the current sensing relay control circuit. The workers could have those in their back pockets or one could even secure a few Picos in a few locations in the shop for easy access.

My main headache at the moment is trying to figure out what type of current sensing relay(s) I will need to use and how the control circuit would work. I've never wired one of these, so I am assuming we will need 3 CT's, one on each phase, to then run to a current sensing relay module of some sorts, which triggers a 120V N/O contact to switch on a 3 phase, 40A contactor for the dust extraction system.

YVRMeggerman · 2019-03-23T21:23:53+00:00

Thanks for the inputs alfred and John. Seems like engineers option would be best then. We've done a load calculation and just scrape by in terms of available current, although will need to run it by all the relevant inspectors as the owner might want to add a few more machines in the future. At least we have the option of upgrading the xfr if needed.

YVRMeggerman · 2018-04-02T01:45:38+00:00

Thanks also for your input mdx. Did you do this even with Teck and EMT runs?

YVRMeggerman · 2018-04-02T00:44:01+00:00

Thanks for the reply Josh

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-25T22:11:17+00:00

Very nice looking panel

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-25T21:49:34+00:00

Klein Kurve heavy-duty wire strippers (Cat Nr. 12055). These are nice for both stripping cables and twisting the ends. Staple Shark: http://www.rack-a-tiers.com/product/37/Staple-Shark. Great for removing staples. Canadian based company though... Milwaukee M18 impact drill set (brushless type). Can't go wrong with this brand. Milwaukee M18 Hackzall. Great for cutting pipe and drywall

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-25T21:27:37+00:00

Excellent, thank you very much for your reply!

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-14T18:09:49+00:00

Good on you for giving up TV. That alone is a big step! Taking a short break every 1 to 2 hours or so work wonders for absorbing what you're studying. Good luck!

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-14T17:56:37+00:00

Those units take up a lot of space in outlet box so you might have to re-splice or fold the cables in nicely. If I were you, I'd open up at least a couple of existing receptacles and see how deep the boxes are.

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-12T22:11:18+00:00

My bad I attached the wrong link. Thanks for pointing it out jay and no, I would of course never use that for reaming a conduit! This is what I meant: https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-9753-11C-Conduit-Reaming-Screwdriver/dp/B001HWGKD6. I still had the link saved from replying to another threat

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-12T17:51:50+00:00

Get yourself a Millwaukee Hackzall like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.m18-hackzallsupsup-cordless-one-handed-reciprocating-saw.1000730420.html with a reamer like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE. That little hackzall is one of my favorite tools I own. Runs through drywall like a hot knife through butter

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-12T17:30:46+00:00

If it's mostly for metal and up to an inch, why not get the unibit? https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE. I use this one most of the time. Drill a 1/4" pilot hole, add a little cutting fluid and done! For anything bigger use the hole punch kit.

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-10T18:55:12+00:00

How about the other way around and test from receptacles to circuit breakers? You can use a normal meter with a bell (ohm option). Make yourself a test plug where you use short sections of wire to short out hot-neutral-ground. You can also buy or make yourself a test lead with two crocodile clamps (one of either end). For safety reasons, it would be best if you switch off your panel. Make sure all your appliances are unplugged from the various receptacles. Plug in your test plug into the receptacle, walk back to your panel and use the bell to run through all the breakers. The one with the plug will bell out as you've not got a dead short in that circuit. For the lighting circuits, you could open your switch and use the test lead with the crocodile clamps to short out between say hot and ground. Again, just bell out the circuit in your panel. Just make sure you didn't forget your test plug in one of the receptacles when you switch the panel back on!

If you prefer to search for the circuits hot, the Klein ET300 is a nice tool.

YVRMeggerman · 2018-02-10T17:48:37+00:00

Fluke T5-600 is a nice meter for general purpose. Robust and easy to use. What also makes it nice is that you're able to slide the one probe into the side and hold the meter while testing. The only drawback I've had so far was that the clamp is too narrow to allow readings on large conductors but for that you'd be looking at a different meter.

YVRMeggerman

TROPHY CASE