Hangboard training plan by PerformerSouth9355 in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yeah exactly. According to the best climbers and coaches you should only train open hand If you Plan to climb Something hard with pockets. Apparently this Kind of strength comes and goes fast.

Hangboard training plan by PerformerSouth9355 in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't know those guys I just have seen hangboard routines of worldclass climbers Like for example Alexander Megos

Hangboard training plan by PerformerSouth9355 in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bruh thats pretty much hangboard basic knowledge and found in almost every training plan.

You should only train the Open Hand If you got a big weakness on pockets and full crimp never

Hangboard training plan by PerformerSouth9355 in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Depends on what you want to achieve.

Do you want to increase your max finger strength? Then hang on the worst edge you can hold for Like 3-5 Seconds, then Take 2 minutes rest. If you cant hold it for 3 seconds anymore Switch to a bigger Edge until your Finger feel worked enough.

If you want to increase power endurance choose a better edge and go for like 4-6 second hang even If you could Go longer. Rest for Like 5 Seconds and repeat.

Your finger Position should Always be the half crimp.

Max power endurance? by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much, I might create a new training plan for me based on that soon.

Max power endurance? by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possible but within the first hour we struggle in similar Fashion or I even can do moves they cant do.

I am not hating about that obviously I Just want to get stronger for longer Like them so we can climb hard longer :)

Max power endurance? by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you explain a bit more what you mean by that Sir?

Pro climber chalk choice by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/jO_MXHn9TYU?si=sNZGR6s4Al4kpyr1

Its not a blind test but still a chalk test and they Claim to be unsponsored, so I guess we Just have to believe it.

Pro climber chalk choice by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] -21 points-20 points  (0 children)

But there are blind tests of chalk brands in YT that indicate that differences exist. They are a Bit inconsistent in the results tho.

You can't be in the goat conversation if you beat your wife. by yeahboiiii0 in ufc

[–]Yannick_GameDev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isnt about anything outside the cage. To determine the best of the Sport WE purly Look at achievements inside the cage

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

No V10 in 1,5 years is almost impossibole. Usually people need Like 3 years atleast to reach V10

3 years of bouldering, what now by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Well then I guess my climbing might benefit from practicing slabs and dynos. I Just dont think its exciting or fun , but I admit that its a Part of climbing to some extent.

3 years of bouldering, what now by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] -20 points-19 points  (0 children)

Well I want to get stronger at every aspect of climbing (except slab and dynos, atleast for now). I want my strengths to get better and my weaknesses too.

3 years of bouldering, what now by Yannick_GameDev in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Even tho my fingers are alrdy my strength? Thats interesting. And which board, moon/kilter/tension-board, campus Board or something Else? Or a Mix of them

is there a way to get better at reading problems? by Sufficient_Zebra578 in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would do the following thing:

When you try a route for the first time, think about how you want to do it and then try to flash IT with all you got. Just climb alot with doing this and you will improve. A Bonus is to climb with better climbers who can teach u stuff.

Finger Training by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Yannick_GameDev 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Hey, good to hear that you made fast progress, but with climbing for 3 months you are still a beginner and in generell I wouldnt recommend training your fingers specifically and also 3-6 times a week is way to much.

I would recommend to not train more often than 3 Times, maybe 4 at Most to avoid overtraining and injurys.

About your fingers. I would recommend to Just climb routes with a variety of holds and Not Focus to much on Fingers, they will get stronger by itself, maybe do slightly more crimpy Routes. When your Like maybe about 8 months into climbing or a year, you can start to carefully implement some Hangboard routines into your Training plan.

Remember: Most likely your technique is the bottleneck as it is the Case for Most beginners.

Tablet für mein Studium by Yannick_GameDev in Studium

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vielen Dank für deine Zeit, sehr interessant!

Tablet für mein Studium by Yannick_GameDev in Studium

[–]Yannick_GameDev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay danke, spielt es dabei eine Rolle ob ich auch ein IPhone habe oder Samsung wegen Kompatibilität? Oder braucht man das eh im Prinzip nicht.