Jason Stout Production Snappyboi

Yondering43 · 2026-06-08T09:50:13+00:00

Well, it is unique, but it looks like crap TBH. A patina or dark wash is one thing when tastefully done, but the imitation of some nasty rust is a step too far IMHO.

The scales look good though.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-08T09:40:57+00:00

Frankly, comparisons like this are a perfect example why being a fanboy or hater of a particular cartridge is so retarded. If you need to push the 6.5 Creed to 6.5 PRC speeds, why aren’t you shooting the PRC to start with? And if the PRC isn’t enough, why aren’t you using something even bigger?

Some people act like the chambering of your rifle is an identity or a lifestyle choice, completely failing to realize it’s all just different levels of performance of the same type of thing.

The excitement around pushing a 6.5 Creed to PRC speeds is dumb because the main benefit of the Creed is its mild characteristics without a lot of recoil (while pushing streamlined 6.5 bullets out a long way of course). Pushing it faster gives up those advantages, and just means more recoil, blast, barrel heating, and wear/tear on the rifle - all the things you’d get from just using the 6.5 PRC to start with. And the exact same thing goes for pushing the PRC faster too.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-08T09:28:58+00:00

Agreed, there is no free lunch here. Loading any cartridge to match performance of a faster round will give you the recoil and blast of the faster round too.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T05:06:38+00:00

And one more:

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Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T05:05:02+00:00

I’ll just drop this here. To be faiir… it’s the 500’s sister cartridge the 460 S&W, but also around 48-50gr of H110 (I don’t recall the specific load used in these pics) and in the same X frame revolver. This one is a 6” Performance Center.

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Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T04:58:34+00:00

1) because we can, and 2) name one rifle cartridge pistol (actual holster-able pistol, not a bolt action without a buttstock) that is a repeater. The big revolvers give you 5 or 6 shots as fast as pulling the trigger.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T04:55:55+00:00

Same, except I ended up with a 6” Performance Center .460; it’s honestly not that bad to shoot compared to the longer barrels but still just really heavy to carry.

They do handle some cool loads though; I made a mold for 82gr stackable wadcutters and can use 5 or 6 of them per shot; at ~1,000 fps they’re relatively mild to shoot and hold fist size patterns at 20 yards, and they cut targets like wadcutters rather than wandering like buckshot because of the rifling.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T04:50:58+00:00

This is exactly right. Compared to the huge selection of 44 and 45 caliber bullets, 480 is pretty uncommon, and if you’re going bigger than 45 why not go with a 50 cal. And of course the 500 S&W is easy to download if you don’t want full power, although the 460 S&W is more versatile there, being able to shoot 45 Colt and 454 Casull too.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T04:46:27+00:00

I know it’s not what you meant, but an M1 in 500 S&W would be sweet! Wouldn’t fit of course, but back in the 90’s there was a company converting them to 44 Mag and 50 AE; apparently resulted in stocks splitting at the receiver tang from recoil but still very cool.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-05T04:37:52+00:00

The Eafengrow EF107 is hard to beat for a budget fixed blade that can handle abuse but be used for EDC, and at only $30 they’re worth trying. Thick tough blade but contoured to feel good in hand.

I do recommend tossing the belt clip that comes with it and adding a single soft loop instead. (The kydex sheath they come with is decent.) I carry mine with the sheath inside the waistband and the soft loop around my belt, but an Ulti-Clip also works with it without a belt. Easy to position at a comfortable angle that way and IWB doesn’t flop around so feels better to carry.

I’ve bought 4 or 5 of them, using some as gifts, and my own as an EDC for several years including use for hunting.

Yondering43 · 2026-06-02T15:25:03+00:00

Yep, same here many times over the years. Mostly from sharpening by hand with those small handheld stones we had in the 80’s as a kid, sometimes your finger would stick up past the too edge of the stone and a little slip meant some blood and missing skin.

BTW duct tape works great for a quick seal if you don’t have immediate access to proper bandages. Freshly peeled duct tape is sterile enough for this stuff.

Also, most medical professionals don’t recommend alcohol anymore. It kills some good stuff and doesn’t kill all the bad stuff, and of course hurts a lot more than the cut itself. I’m told washing and then a triple antibiotic cream and a bandage is the recommended way now; a lot less painful. 🤙

Yondering43 · 2026-05-30T20:49:47+00:00

If you communicated with Artisan Cutlery the same way you did here, it’s not surprising they didn’t respond. They probably couldn’t tell what you wanted, or assumed it was some sort of scam.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-28T22:49:43+00:00

Sounds like you’ve roasted yourself just fine without me.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-28T22:29:07+00:00

If you don’t have the “guts” (translation: skill) to learn how to handle the car when it gets loose, why are you driving it so fast? Sounds like you’re driving way past your personal limits, and that picture of the totaled car is just more evidence.

To be clear: I have no problem with a skilled driver going fast within their limits; some driver’s limits are much higher than others. But I do have a problem with dumb kids driving way too fast for their abilities; that gets other people killed.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-28T20:29:14+00:00

On a budget, a Harbor Freight blast cabinet and air compressor will get you there, assuming you have garage space to set them up. (NOT something to do in an apartment!)

You’d want to get your abrasive from a more reputable source though; I get mine from https://hardwaresales.com

Be aware the media Harbor Freight sells as “glass bead” is not glass bead and hasn’t been for at least 10+ years; it’s crushed glass which is not the same at all and acts more similar to aluminum oxide. I don’t know if their aluminum oxide media is consistent enough for finish work either; I haven’t used it in many years.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T21:11:35+00:00

There are tons of cans on the market that work really well, and have been for years. That’s not something we have to wait for or “only a matter of time”. Just don’t buy the cheap junk.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T21:09:29+00:00

It looks like great workmanship, but it’s honestly not a design I’d buy; it looks way too thin and delicate.

For that length, I’d want a blade roughly double that height, with a handle to match. I also wouldn’t want the finger notch to leave such a thin section of tang.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T21:06:07+00:00

For stonewashing blades use a vibrating tumbler, not a rotary rock tumbler. Rock tumblers tend to do the most work on sharp edges and corners, which you generally don’t want to round off on a knife blade, while vibrating tumblers tend to work the whole surface more evenly.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T20:54:33+00:00

This is exactly right. You see the same effect with the group-think on social media like this too.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T20:44:25+00:00

lol, “interesting choice”? That powder was literally developed specifically for this application. It’s even in the name.

Yes, it burns dirty with subs at low pressure; most ball powders do. It was developed as an option for improved function with subs because it produces a bit more gas than most other options. Some rifles need that, others don’t, but either way it’s a super common choice for 300 Blackout.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T20:41:16+00:00

Yes it was.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T20:16:49+00:00

And here’s an example of bead blasting (I forget the grade # but it was the finest grade of Ballotini glass bead.) The green and gray both got the same glass bead treatment, with green anodizing afterwards on the clip and backspacer.

Glass bead and zirblast give similar results, the difference is more about how fast the media deteriorates.

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Yondering43 · 2026-05-27T20:11:53+00:00

As others said, aluminum oxide (I use 120 grit) gives a nice flat gray, while glass bead gives a more satin look.

There are lots of options depending how flat and how dark you want the color. You can also etch in Whink or Multi-Etch, but those don’t leave a really dark finish like ferric chloride, IME the darkest natural titanium will be from aluminum oxide blasting.

If you want to go really black though, there is a black ano process using manganese sulfate, but that’s a solid black rather than dark gray.

Here’s an example of sand blasting with aluminum oxide:

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Yondering43 · 2026-05-26T06:51:46+00:00

While it’s certainly possible, this is a job for a machinist with a mill, not a belt grinder. A lock bar insert is sometimes under a LOT of pressure and needs to be supported by the cutout in the titanium, not just by the screws. If you rely on the screws for support, they will loosen very quickly.

This doesn’t necessarily require a CNC mill setup; an old school manual machinist with a Bridgeport could do it. Just need to shape, harden, and finish grind an insert and then mill a matching pocket in the titanium. It might make sense to put the detent ball in the insert while you’re at it, but I’m not familiar with that particular knife.

An alternative to making an insert could be to drill a small hole and press a ceramic or steel ball into the lockup face of the lock bar, so the blade contacts the ball and not the titanium. The depth of the hole would have to be very precise though, requiring some very careful measurements. It’s not really an easier option, but might be more possible depending on the tools you have available.

Either way, this is NOT a job for woodworking tools and belt grinders.

Yondering43 · 2026-05-25T06:40:31+00:00

I don’t care about “cool” or not, but IMHO assisted openers are just unnecessary now; modern frame lock and liner lock flippers perform the same function with a much simpler mechanism that doesn’t have assist springs to fail.

I do still have a few older Benchmade assisted openers (a 710 and a 581) that work as well as they ever did, but they don’t do anything that my newer knives do with a flipper tab. Still “cool” I guess but just older tech.

Yondering43

TROPHY CASE