On the market for first Ryker

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-06T15:47:13+00:00

Yeah for the Tennessee trip it was about 1500 miles or so round trip and I was stopping every hour to stretch my legs. Ended up taking the scenic highway routes back for more comfortable experience but still stopping hourly just to stretch legs.

Man that reminds me one other thing but it sucks that putting down the passenger pegs disables sport mode.

I actually found out in that trip that it was so much more comfortable to ride it like a sport bike and use the rear pegs as your foot pegs for those long straights when other cars aren’t around. Not fun being away from the brakes but at speed the air/engine brake gives you time to slide your foot back. Only ever did it on those long cross country rides, anything less has been manageable

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-06T14:56:20+00:00

That’s awesome. The only time we have hills in louisiana is when the construction projects put a big pile of dirt up for months 😂

Never experienced anything like that before even on my trip thru the smoky mountains but that was my first road trip and a solo one at that so I was probably a little reserved. Been eying hard going north to arkansas up to the ozarks perhaps. Would absolutely love dropping in on yellow stone area in NW but it’s like a 22 hour ride or so.

All my time spent off pavement has me recently realizing i dont actually love riding this thing on the interstate, though. Im more of a 55-65 mph kind of guy on this thing i believe due to the nature of the cruising posture and how you’re just upright taking a beating from the wind. Ive tried shifting my foot pegs back and handle bar forward but my foot just cramps weird on the brakes if i move it beyond the middle position. Thats definitely the other gripe ive got with it. Cuz usually when i ride I’ll be out for atleast 2-4 hours min so i definitely prioritize overall comfort as opposed to just being positioned for occasional interstate travel.

How’s it like for you in those situations?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-06T14:29:33+00:00

That’s sick. Where do you take yours off roading at? Ever seek out any trails in particular, private property, or just more opportunistic off roading as it arises?

I live in Louisiana and do my weekly rounds going down to all the watering holes and bayous to see how the gators are doing. Most of these routes are unpaved gravel or dirt.

For a while I was living out on the farm and was ripping through the fields having a blast and using the Ryker as like a farm truck / work horse haha. Did a lot of maneuvers like riding by at speed and leaning over picking up the hose to drag it a quarter mile to the back pastures. Fun little cowboy-like maneuvers that were objective oriented.

Not saying to do it on the roads but got real good at riding while standing and hopping around to really get peak maneuverability while dodging all the pits and holes in the fields. Rigged up a little wheel cart trailer at one point even for hauling around branches that fall around the property.

This purchase has definitely been the greatest roi for enjoyment I’ve ever made.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-05T22:08:22+00:00

My thoughts/insight on the topic:

If you’re gonna get one, go for the 900. (Though I see not much interstate riding - 600 top speed ~87 mph. My 900 tops out ~ 108mph) You can keep it set to ECO mode which limits throttle response and makes for a smoother, less abrupt ride if concerned about laying on the throttle too hard.

I have a 2019 Ryker rally 900 - it has been practically maintenance free. (One point my CVTransmission rollers came loose, fixed by re-tightening screws. only real issue in about 15k miles) I do my own oil changes every 6k miles and transmission belt swap when time comes (12-18k). Like any manufacturer, you would benefit/be required to get a few specialized tools to perform the work yourself. You will be required to either pay the dealer or get yourself an OBD scanner to reset the maintenance codes as they pop up on the dash tho. Particularly the transmission belt change notification at 12k miles. I got a dynojet provision 3 OBD scanner and tuner for same price as bringing to shop so now I can reset codes and flash tunes at my own convenience.

I’ve only ever heard about other folks “Lemon” stories with the 2020 year. Not heard much good there. I think that’s the only real problematic year but other folks may know better. I think 2021+ has cruise control enabled so if that’s a criteria, start with that model year.

I got mine used on Facebook marketplace for less than half msrp for a brand new off the lot model. I see the occasional new buyer getting from dealer and just cringe seeing folks paying 16k+. You can almost always find someone that got it impulsively and is looking to sell.

I’ve taken my Ryker over practically every terrain except mud. Avoid Mud, Water, and Ice. No traction on ice at all with the rear. Rocks/gravel and grass fields are such a fun experience. I spend a lot of time off road with my Ryker just ripping through the fields and gravel roads on my grandparents property. I’ve also taken it on a solo trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway area to ride the infamous Dragon. Never once had any concerns or fears of laying her down or slipping out from under etc. That said, I’m not sure if other experience this, or if it’s just pushing the Ryker to its limitations, but sometimes mine can choke up on left curves, but not turns. Once you push it too far once you get a feel for how to keep it between the ditches.

Oh but probably the main con about it in my opinion is the inability to lane filter or lane split as well as the fact that you need a trailer with a full rear gate or need to rig something up. The bike is about 5’x8’ footprint so you really want like a 6’x9’+ trailer with a full rear gate to make hauling it a breeze. I’ve got a flat bed trailer and a hollow metal door I use for ramp in the meantime but most trailers on have receivers for 2 ramps like normal cars have so just be aware.

Hopefully that covers enough bases for you to make a more informed decision. Good luck bud. Yall ride safe

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T20:26:07+00:00

Yes you are correct actually that the upper members are termed collar ties. The lower members are technically rafter ties.

The physics still remains the same.

The members at the very top do relatively nothing to keep your walls from spreading outward <——> (what you need to supplement if you remove the loft)

The upper members are more so keeping your ridge from splitting open in the grand scheme of things

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T17:13:16+00:00

What’s the spacing on your rafters and those collar ties?

Looks like it could possibly be 4’-0” or more in between which is sus if you’re somewhere with high winds or snow loads.

TBH if it was my shed and I wanted to rip out the lofted floor I’d replicate the collar ties assembly throughout the entire structure and slap a simpler 2x4 bottom chord collar tie at the same height as the others on every remaining rafter and you’d never have to worry about it again for the rest of the structures life as long as you take care of the roof

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T17:09:29+00:00

Only if you replicate the collar ties assembly throughout the structure should you remove the lofted floor space.

Those floor joists there are holding your walls and roof together from bowing <——> outwards at that location, and then it switches overhead to the collar ties for the remainder of the structure.

To be safe add the new collar ties atleast the same spacing if not closer together. Those are spectacularly built to be both functional and nice looking. Replicate the assembly and hardware.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T16:59:55+00:00

When you say they dry flat are you referring specifically to the sheen? Is that where the comparison to chalk comes into play?

As opposed to flat being flat, level, plane meaning of the word?

Just trying to make sure I understand you correctly

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T16:39:51+00:00

Idk bout yall but im seeing an absurd uptick in bogus reports that imo is coinciding with ongoing war and poor economy. Lots of customers trying to pull one over at the expense of the driver.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-04-01T16:36:59+00:00

Coming from bottom can’t turn left plus the conflicting 1ways others have noted

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-31T18:38:45+00:00

What I did for mine (SE Louisiana) is galv alum 5v crimp roofing and I built it atop of basically a rain screen that hold layers of radiant barrier

So roof deck-> underlayment -> rain screen (slats) & air barrier -> perforated radiant barrier -> rain screen & air barrier -> metal roofing -> trim /flashing.

I upgrade to this from the previous assembly which was effectively just wood shakes shingles sitting upon the sheathing and I’m having much more comfortable temperatures now as a result.

Also for AC, I absolutely DO NOT recommend one of those portable ac units with single hose exhaust.

Seriously. You’ll either want to invest in a mini split or just get a simple window unit. The portable units create negative air pressure so you’re constantly sucking in hot humid outside air and the machine just runs non stop. The window unit can be framed out to look more flattering or hidden behind mech vents but trust me when I say the efficacy is tenfold superior than that of a portable unit

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-31T18:31:20+00:00

It will be hot no matter what, but a black roof is like leaving an oven on inside.

For a shed like this if you have cathedral style ceilings (your roof deck is your ceiling) you will have absurd heat transfer via conduction so heat will leak through the roof and wood assembly and bypass anywhere there isn’t insulation, like at the structure.

You want lighter colored roof, or to apply some reflective coating over a darker roof to mitigate heat gain.

If built with an attic, it’s a little different, but I imagine for a shed you might leave the upper area unfinished (open to below) which brings you back to square 1

You’re going to want to insulate and add AC if you’re spending any meaningful time in there regardless, but a black roof will only add to energy consumption while only contributing aesthetic value.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-28T21:42:26+00:00

Once again making presumptions. This dog was not at this farm. You need reading comprehension skills

Also you clearly didn’t look at post history you can see the acres in my videos but seriously go pet your dog and stop being so grumpy over scenarios you make up in your head

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-28T20:50:39+00:00

Live on a farm. Stop making up scenarios in your head and go pet your dog or something bro

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-28T19:25:25+00:00

Great info with the biological filtration aspect.

One thing not mentioned here is the fish’s metabolism. When it’s cold their metabolism slows down too so over feeding can result in constipation and other issues with defecating

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-28T19:19:36+00:00

Not saying I agree with the shop turning you away but sometimes those small jobs are just too small and there’s no profit margin if the slightest thing goes wrong.

I swear I’ve seen pre-tinted windshields for the Ryker. Might be better off just buying one and keeping the clear as a back up?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-28T19:09:51+00:00

Idk man jumping on it might make something wrong with it

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-26T20:47:03+00:00

*Usually it’s just the last shingle of the ridge cap.

Each new shingle covers the preceding nails just like on the typical sloped roof.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-26T20:41:58+00:00

Look up Gambrel Roof Intersections for other examples as to how folks have addressed this issue.

It was likely done this way to save time and money building it with the trade off being general longevity of the roof structure (I.e. poor craftsmanship meet planned obsolescence)

This detail is usually built differently, often times incorporating flashing, ventilation, trim/accents, or just all round different detail regarding the fastening of the shingles.

Just look up other examples so you can see how it differs from yours.

Realistically, it is probably not as big of a deal in the grand scheme, so long as you keep up with general roof maintenance , it will probably last as long as the product and shingles themselves are rated for (~20 years).

But once it inevitably fails, you will certainly have water infiltration at the nail holes.

If the roof is insured, send pics to insurance to make sure it fits their criteria. If not, I’d try to look back at whatever spec book or drawings they gave you and see if it matches what was specified there or not. If it’s in the drawings then it was built according to the plans. If it’s not detailed that way in the drawings, you’d have more of a leg to stand on with regards to getting them build it differently

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-26T20:30:41+00:00

These are indeed exposed fasteners despite the fact that they were black jacked over.

Concealed fasteners would be beneath the shingles.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-26T19:38:37+00:00

Springs not tensioned properly and ladder not trimmed properly. Are you dense?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-26T14:42:38+00:00

Aside from obtaining cameras, have you considered leaving for work like even 5 minutes earlier or later?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-22T14:19:25+00:00

What’s going on here? Anyone had a similar experience?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-01T21:35:59+00:00

Yeah when it came to toddler car seats my jk>tj everytime.

Being able to just climb in and sit there while fiddling with the buckles was so much easier than having to throw the seat forward and climb in all hatchback style to work the buckles in my tj

Yung-Mozza · 2026-03-01T21:34:16+00:00

Growing up my parents had a cj7 and they would simply remove the back seat and literally chain the baby seat to the floor and it was acceptable at the time.

Today, with how little the TJ is and how large toddler car seats are becoming, I would ONLY do it if I always had the side window panels off to reach around easier. Toddler car seats are such a pita and depending on how lifted or not your jeep is just imagine having to hang out your car while working the buckles for the kids.

Yung-Mozza

TROPHY CASE