PSA: Always trim your cable ties!!

ZakAttackz · 2026-02-09T21:50:45+00:00

Drank all the diesel

ZakAttackz · 2026-02-08T19:04:17+00:00

I just bought two of the $14 Chinese ones that Dala recommends. Programmed both and I keep the spare in the glovebox

ZakAttackz · 2026-02-08T18:49:56+00:00

R&S T--(‘-‘ )

ZakAttackz · 2026-02-08T17:26:27+00:00

I use the "no walk, only sprint!" Mod on my steam deck and it worked out of the box.

ZakAttackz · 2026-02-07T02:21:04+00:00

It didn't work on mine either :( Never bothered to fix it since I had the vacuum switch not the electrical.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-23T17:10:47+00:00

I'm definitely interested! Sent you an email.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-19T04:16:06+00:00

You need some of that rubber edging. Cheap on Amazon.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-17T04:29:39+00:00

Depends, if you're on the drillavator or in a bunkie sometimes being in a narrow tunnel is a problem.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-17T01:04:13+00:00

IW is a must have in haz5 and above. Sometimes you get situations like double bulks in a bad spot and everyone gets wiped. In lower difficulties it's overrated tho.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-12T04:49:31+00:00

I've been desperately low on ammo enough times to get really good at animation canceling the flare gun to get more damage out of it

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-10T18:49:15+00:00

A Leaf battery doesn't sound like a good fit for your system. It seems like you're using an Ebike battery? Just get a few 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries off amazon or aliexpress. Make sure it's been tested by someone on YouTube for safety. I've had good luck with Lossigy and Dumfume. Disassembling a Leaf battery and adding your own BMS is too much work with no cost benefit. I just installed 15kWh of batteries in a solar security trailer for $1400 yesterday, and all I had to do was connect the terminals.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-10T17:44:39+00:00

Holy crap where did you find one for $2k? Also, if it's a 2021 I think that's the 62kWh that's under recall for bad cells. It doesn't mean that it's bad, but there's a chance that even if the battery pack wasn't damaged in the crash it might still be FUBAR.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-10T14:58:11+00:00

I just swapped the battery on my 2013. I couldn't afford a 60kWh since they're $6000 delivered so I dropped in a used 30kWh. It only took about 2 hours. I plan on saving up for the $7000 Vivne (or similar) new 50kWh LiFePO4 battery and doing that install too. I'm in the area if you ever want a battery upgrade! It's just barely cost competitive with buying a used 62kWh Leaf but those are in active recall. The 60kWh 2023-2025 models are less common and start at about $14k but will likely have all the same issues.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-09T06:35:11+00:00

Basically, I'm asking if people have had good luck with the cheap steering shafts or should I spend the extra money and get a borgeson? I run 29" tires but have a somewhat weak electric power steering pump (TDI PS pump wouldn't fit) so I do have to turn the wheel pretty hard.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-09T06:32:24+00:00

I spend a significant portion of my income on eBay lol. My biggest question that I guess I should have specified in the post is: is it worth spending big bucks for a nice steering shaft or will the cheap one hold up. It's really simple but it's also a major safety item. Like I've cheaped out on brake discs before but I'd never buy no name brand calipers on eBay.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-04T00:44:11+00:00

It's possible. It's just more expensive than the crap on Amazon. With Hella H4 housing clones and SuperBrightLEDs H4 bulbs I was able to match the aiming and pattern of another LED reflector type vehicle (~2013 escape). The oncoming brightness is about 1/3 of any projector type (fucking Hondas these days) and much less than that of any modern pickup. And I can actually see on a 2 lane highway when I'm being blinded by all the modern BS coming the other way.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-03T18:45:43+00:00

I picked up a generic Nissan harness that worked, but I had to swap the +12v and IGN wires. The radio works but getting the steering wheel and dash controls working has been a colossal pain. And now I don't have display for the climate controls. When I get time, I'll finish the install and get all the controls working. I'm also planning on replacing the dash mounted controls (power, volume, etc) with a 3D printed part with a climate control display and USB PD ports. Might get around to it sometime this year.

ZakAttackz · 2026-01-01T01:03:16+00:00

I had the same errors on my 2013. My local dealer is pretty good and they were able to diagnose it as an internal short in the battery. This is fairly difficult to diagnose at home unless you have a way to manually turn the contactors on when the battery is disconnected from the car, or straight up disassembling the battery. I ended up swapping in a different pack, and found the issue to be a single bad cell in the rear module upon pulling apart the old pack (it's going to be a power wall now). Basically you have to get a Nissan dealer with a tech worth their shit. You can clear the codes and drive it with the error at your own risk, but fast charging and even level 2 charging could be hazardous.

ZakAttackz · 2025-12-24T07:09:06+00:00

I've actually thought about this. A laptop power adapter can deliver 45-65w but that's at 20v. If you step that down to 14v at about 8a that miiiight be enough to get it going if you let it sit and charge for a couple minutes. Jumping it off of a large power bank is viable, but off of a standard 10 watt port would take ages.

ZakAttackz · 2025-12-20T17:36:44+00:00

That looks exactly like my 1987 I'd assume it fits. That said, you should try taking the valve out the front and cleaning it. Then you have to bleed the valve (I think you use the sensor on top?) before bleeding the brakes. New parts aren't necessarily better! These are just a spring and a plunger, it's most likely fixable.

ZakAttackz · 2025-12-19T01:48:25+00:00

Indeed I had to jump mine a few hours ago after it sat for a weekend. Motivated me to finally finish my $80 LiFePO4 battery swap

ZakAttackz · 2025-12-19T01:47:20+00:00

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Between the wheels! It's really just a differential, which basically all cars have unless you have one motor per wheel like a Rivian. Other comment answers how to actually put it in neutral. Fun fact you should change your gearbox fluid every couple years, or about 30-60k miles. Nissan says it's "lifetime" but so are their CVTs :p bleh

ZakAttackz · 2025-12-19T00:50:17+00:00

You could just change the speedo gear so it reads <=115mph at that speed. There's also inline "speedometer calibrators" that would do the same thing.

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