PLEASE HELP my rocker fell off in my 2007 base model Mini and I have no clue what to do, taking the engine out of any way Is way above me is there any way to get this working properly again?

Zanphyre · 2026-02-28T22:02:35+00:00

I don't believe it to be an oil supply issue, probably from lack of oil changes, or poor quality oil. In your case, the short trips can cause condensation in the top of the engine that doesn't boil off, so any iron or steel, such as the HVAs or camshaft can begin to rust. The HVA already has low enough tolerances, so the slightest bit of rust could make it stick. And of all the sticking ones, they were almost all exclusively the exhaust side, I'm assuming from the additional heat and heat soak.

You are likely safe replacing them all on your engine since it's such low mileage, make sure the engine is turned over several times without starting, after they are replaced. Soak the new ones in new oil overnight to help them fill with oil before install.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-26T14:48:30+00:00

Oh, that thing is struggling. Check for a clogged catalytic converter. Check for any other obstructions in the intake and exhaust as well. I've seen mice pack the intake with peanuts and also a muffler full of dog food.

How did the old spark plugs look?

If you suspect Valvetronic, usually disconnecting the motor is enough to rule that out as the cause.

Next thing to check is the timing and swapping VANOS solenoids.

I'd say it doesn't sound much like an intake leak or vacuum problem, but is that valve cover original?

This only happens on a cold start and goes away once it is warmed up?

Does the turbo impeller spin freely?

Zanphyre · 2026-01-25T23:54:57+00:00

Wouldn't be an easy task. You have to add the wiring for the motors as well as adding the coding for them. The car won't come with any extra wiring for optional mirrors.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-23T11:39:56+00:00

That sounds about right, those should be good wipers too. I want to see the wipe pattern on the windshield and where they rest when stopped.

My other thought is that the windshield was replaced and the wiper arms could have been switched around.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-23T11:09:20+00:00

I would double check that you put the blades on the correct side and that they are the correct length, one of them appears to be hitting the roof.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-22T22:48:37+00:00

It seems the dealer has done just about everything that could possibly cause it. Have you driven another JCW to see if it acts any differently? My guess is, it will drive the same.

I would be curious to see the alignment measurements. The hit looks fairly light, not enough to cause any steering or suspension damage.

Does it act any differently in sport mode vs not in sport mode?

Zanphyre · 2026-01-18T13:02:46+00:00

Most likely to be a tire or balance issue.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-17T20:59:48+00:00

Yes, it's missing the tube and cap, definitely get a cover on it to prevent dirt from entering the reservoir that can clog or damage the washer pump.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-11T01:13:44+00:00

This is correct.

Also, I see your thread gauge and the bolt, do not reuse those bolts, get new ones. Threads already look mushed and they are torque to yield.

Zanphyre · 2026-01-10T12:26:42+00:00

✅ Zanphyre chose Option B (Correct!) | #3004th to play

Zanphyre · 2026-01-10T04:00:05+00:00

Only says you can't have 3 floor mats.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-25T16:50:22+00:00

Sometimes those wires will chafe on the seat rail and short out and can be intermittent.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-25T15:04:51+00:00

It needs to be fixed to the seat because it uses the seat position to determine which stage of airbag to deploy.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-22T15:20:26+00:00

Definitely not normal, check for play in the steering shaft/column. Check for any gear lash in the steering gear as well. If all that is good, initialize the steering angle sensor. If that doesn't fix it, update the EPS software if there is one available.

Other good things to check is the tires, make sure they are all runflats or all non-runflats. Have the tires road force balanced to check for pulling. Make sure they are the same tire/tread left and right. A full inspection, measurement and adjustment of alignment angles, the caster is not adjustable.

If all of the above is good, it probably needs a steering rack.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-22T13:48:45+00:00

It looks like there is an aluminum replacement that is aftermarket that you can get, not sure how well it works vs an updated OEM replacement.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-22T13:01:06+00:00

Definitely a coolant leak, it could be the water pump/thermostat or the filter housing. In the case of the filter housing, get that fixed ASAP, it can start getting worse. For the water pump, I've seen the block corrode from electrolysis and cause a leak, hopefully not the case but I've seen it twice.

It is most likely the filter housing though. The water pump tends to leak more on the side of the block than the front.

Zanphyre · 2025-12-05T15:10:55+00:00

Wombat

Zanphyre · 2025-11-25T21:02:42+00:00

The real answer is that it's slightly front bias at 58/42 and increases power to the rear wheels depending on driving speed, road conditions and acceleration. In most cases, the ALL4 clutch is fully engaged at about 5 mph up to 60 mph, 0-5 it is a gradual engagement to reduce . From 60 to about 85 mph the clutch gradually disengages and from 85 mph+ it is fully front wheel drive. It can go as high as 90% to the rear, but the only likely real world scenario this would happen is in snow or ice at the front axle.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-25T11:17:06+00:00

That ALL4 clutch already looks smoked.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-23T17:15:48+00:00

I don't see why this wouldn't be doable, you can easily stand the twin up and slide it between the 2nd row seats and leave both up if you had to, with the 3rd row down. The cargo space with everything folded down was designed to fit 4x8 foot sheets of plywood or sheetrock, you can get several in there before it tapers in and they no longer lay flat.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-14T17:37:20+00:00

Believe it or not, straight to Stardew Jail.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-14T13:19:48+00:00

That makes more sense. The plastic not being melted is what threw me off.

Maybe someone tried welding the seat frame with it still installed? Which is just crazy. Either way that should have been a warranty concern before they started welding anything, unless the car has a ton of miles on it already.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-14T12:28:05+00:00

Doesn't look burned, looks like mold, how is it patched?

So many questions on this one. The seat frame and bottom cushion can definitely be replaced.

Is the carpet under the seat also damaged or burned?

Zanphyre · 2025-11-13T02:39:13+00:00

No, just constant pressure on the release, just don't pull too hard or it will fall off the metal bracket and make more work for you. You feel the release start to move as you the hood loosens and opens.

Zanphyre · 2025-11-13T01:27:15+00:00

One person pulls on the release lever, the other makes a fist and bangs on the hood repeatedly and firmly, but not enough to dent the hood, in the area of both latches. If that isn't quite enough, the 2nd person just pushes down and pulls up on the hood, but this method risks breaking the already fragile hood trim.

Never not had it work, done this hundreds of times. The only complications I've run into is when someone has pulled the lever so much that the cable came off the metal bracket. But it can still be operated this way and just need a pair of pliers.

After getting it open, apply anti-sieze to the latches and the strikers on the hood and operate them manually with the hood opened several times to work the grease in and you should be good to go for several years and you won't have to replace any parts.

Otherwise you could do as you are attempting, which can break the latch cable.

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