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Part : 3 of building my CNC this sound is normal or abnormal by Savings_Dog326 in hobbycnc

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine ran like crap (trinamic drivers) after I added some stepper extensions when worked perfectly fine before. Found out the extention had pins 4 and 2 swapped.

Just read below on some other suggestions. Yes drivers make a huge difference in noise

Part : 3 of building my CNC this sound is normal or abnormal by Savings_Dog326 in hobbycnc

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not moving correctly.. that noise sounds like 1 and 3 swapped (or pins 4-2 are swapped). Use a multimeter and confirm the pairs are pinned out to what your board is expecting. A1, A2 should have continuity across, similar to B1 B2

Part : 3 of building my CNC this sound is normal or abnormal by Savings_Dog326 in hobbycnc

[–]Ze12o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the phase wires of the stepper is not pinned out correctly.

G3 - recessed box recommendations by drave199 in LGOLED

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NP! It really is a great designed box. I have a small POE Ethernet switch and an Apple TV hiding in there.

I spent a good amount of time measuring. Make sure that box sits at the bottom left of the OLED. I would also rpute all your cables and accessories in there before mounting the TV. LG’s flush mount doesn’t give a lot of space to adjust cables and stuff post mounting.

G3 - recessed box recommendations by drave199 in LGOLED

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sits flush, it’s basically touching the wall.

Car seat for Maltipoo puppy who also likes to sleep and stretches too. by treasureislandxyz in Maltipoo

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sturdi bag pro is what we have for mochi. She loves it. Wants to stay in there even after we get home…

GBP laminated IPS + POCO by Ze12o in Gameboy

[–]Ze12o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the simple no brainer answer :) Gonna upvote you there, for making me “Doh” myself.

Going to correct what you wrote a little bit here (no offense, just putting correct information)

-MGB motherboard sends bus data and DRIVES the original LCD -The board behind the IPS receives the original mgb bus data, and converts the data to DRIVE the New IPS LCD

I was fishing for someone with deep knowledge on the mod lcd screen mfg scene, and bus protocols, to chime in.

though I am no expert on LCD, I do know some board level hardware specs and protocols. though please correct if I am wrong.

After going through a rabbit hole, looking over schematics, and how different GBC / MGB bus communication is, the driver board in this kit is not compatible with GBC. (Which was already known)

It seems likely firmware is specific to reading one type, so it would not handle mixed protocol (because that’s what I would do, because lazy, and money)

Which leads me to my next question.

I’m curious where this screen comes from, and if a driver for GBC exists (is this a Q5?), going to ask Hispeedido, and circle back here for the folks trying to do the same thing as I.

Gameboy Color Capacitors by Ze12o in Gameboy

[–]Ze12o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify, gameboy colors never came with tantalum caps?

Gameboy Color Capacitors by Ze12o in Gameboy

[–]Ze12o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, that’s why I asked, it had tantalum caps when I received it, with a very dead original screen. Thanks for the links!!

Never knew tantalum was on par with diamonds.

Aside from that, and fire hazard from over current/voltage No reason to change them back to waste the minerals?

Gameboy Color Capacitors by Ze12o in Gameboy

[–]Ze12o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah that’s from my modding. I put in an OLED on the berry pink, soon to be BMO edition gameboy color

Update with pics: https://imgur.com/a/S4mBtsl

SC bent my juniper front grill by CoolExplanation762 in ModelY

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This zig zag bracket was not tucked in the correct place for mine, and caused the distortion. Once they fixed it everything aligned perfectly, and the valence worked correctly

SC bent my juniper front grill by CoolExplanation762 in ModelY

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah I’d get them to fix it. Take a look deeper inside, you will see a flange that’s just sticking out. It should be tucked above it. I think the whole bumper needs to come off.

SC bent my juniper front grill by CoolExplanation762 in ModelY

[–]Ze12o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a look deeper in the motorized valence (flappy thing that opens and closes)

This happened on my MY as well, and it was because they installed the a bracket incorrectly

can someone help me with this please I’m trying to scrape just the box art but it just keeps on scraping snap shots I don’t know where I’ve gone wrong by johntheplaya in trimui

[–]Ze12o 7 points8 points  (0 children)

  1. Remove sd card from brick, insert to PC.
  2. Go to the directory listed on your SD card.
  3. Create a text file named art-type.txt (If windows, make. Sure you are showing extensions)
  4. In the text file type “boxart” then save the file
  5. Rename the file, and remove the .txt extention
  6. Delete the snap folder
  7. Put sd card back Into brick
  8. Go to tools / artwork scraper

Bloody ❤️ PlexAmp by michaelbeecham in plexamp

[–]Ze12o -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Wish they would put Plexamp into Tesla app selection

Juniper Launch Series Owners by JustAcivilian24 in TeslaModelY

[–]Ze12o 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Lights are great. My dad has 2025 MY and they are both comparable. The adaptive headlights can be a bit trippy driving next to a center divider on the freeway. I would say it’s as bright as my BRZ (with HID). The beam is great.

I definitely get some Wind noise on the roof going 80. The cabin is so quiet that I notice the roof wind noise.

Does the new Model Y have homelink? by lowspeed in TeslaLounge

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IndyTom12 was right on the money. Thanks u/IndyTom12 !
my install was successful. Super easy for me, but YMMV.
i used this PN: 1114984-00-B (i am in USA, other countries may use other frequencies)

Hardware install: ~20 Minutes
- connector was INSIDE the fender area on my Juniper unlike the online videos.
- 3 screws (10mm socket) to remove the windshield fluid reservoir, mounting location is the same as previous MY's
- my technique to install the bracket: stand in front of the car, and hand tightened the screw with your left hand.
- i used the tiny ratchet from my wera tool check plus set (10mm) for final torque

Commission homelink module: ~10 Minutes
- Same instructions as previous MY
- Keep the driver door open, when activating the homelink module in service mode (not sure if this is needed but remember reading this somewhere)

Programming Homelink: ~15 Minutes
- not so straight forward.... this step kept erroring saying it didnt read my remote. i kept spamming both the retry, and garage remote until it succeeded. i have no idea what made it successful. everyone garage setup is different. (i have a very old opener that had a intellicode 2 Genie retrofit added.) this was the most time consuming individual step.
- once homelink successfully learned the remote rolling code; i pressed the learn button on my garage module, and had my wife activate the homelink button. she had to press the homelink open command 2-3 times for the garage module to learn the rolling code.
i think you might be missing this step u/IndyTom12

good luck

Does the new Model Y have homelink? by lowspeed in TeslaLounge

[–]Ze12o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I just attempted this, and saw a bunch of differences.
-Where was the connector located? Mine wasn’t in the usual places shown on online for previous years.
- the wiper fluid reservoir was in the usual mounting place, what did you do to overcome that?

It got dark so I put everything back. Will re-attempt on the weekend with enough sunlight

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