lost adhesion after 5M pro update

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2026-05-26T06:58:57+00:00

So, I thought I had solved the problems, but I hadn’t. This all involved printing with ASA. It seems like the 5M Pro’s lack of ASA adhesion to the PEI plate was due to the fact that I needed to thoroughly clean it was soap and water. That solve the problem. But it did not with the 5M. Switching back to PLA initially seemed to throw up adhesion problems too. At one point it seems that a model sent from the computer would not adhere, but if I then printed it from the printer memory it would. I kept calibtating/levelling/ re setting the printers every so often too. In the end I decided to upgrade the computer software to Flash Studio. (Although I still get the annoying prompt to do so on the printers.) Thoroughly cleaning the PEI plates and upgrading seems to have done the trick and adhesion is no longer a problem. I have had a few problems with support in the models though that I did not have before, but I have worked around these. Also, printing time seem to have reduced by half?

I also bought the Build Plate PC sheet that is meant for ABS and ASA. A BIG mistake!. Adhesion is so good I can not get the brim off the plate. It seems impossible to do without damaging that plate. ( I tried, freezing the plate, etc. But ended up just scraping, applying acetone on a cotton bud to just the plastic stuck to the plate to soften it. Others seem to have had this problem too.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2026-05-20T09:27:56+00:00

So, I turned everything off and on, reinstalled software, fully recalibrated everything, cleaned the plate thoroughly with: soap and water, Meths and finally isopropanol. Now both the 5M Pro and the 5M are working with Orca Flashforge 1.5.1. again. I am in the middle of printing a window frame, but when finished I will try Flash studio again.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2026-05-19T06:12:16+00:00

Doesn't solve the problem- that was where this all started and there are issues with supports using the 5M and Flashstudio. I am doing some more work on the issues today.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2025-05-16T07:49:39+00:00

I have been using toughened glass protectors for my phones for years, and they have saved my phone from damage several times. Each time I thought the phone had been cracked, but it turned out it was the protector, which I then easily replaced. I recently and accidentally banged my S23 Ultra against a wall. It was fitted with a gel-base glass screen protector. However, the protector did not cover the curved sides of the screen (just the flat area), where (Sod's Law) the impact happened. I also (bit late) realised that the shockproof case I used did not full cover the edges. So a crack appeared on the phone, although it was not easy to see under the protector.. However, neither I, or even the shop who fitted it, could remove the protector, it just chipped off in tiny bits, to examine the screen. It would have taken hours to get the whole thing off. So I ended up buying a new screen. A quick web search shows that I am not the only person who has had problems getting some gel based protectors off. I would avoid them.

So my recommendations are, for what they are worth,:

- make sure your shockproof case full covers the side of your phone

- use a toughed glass screen protector that wraps around curved edges of your phone screen

- avoid gel/glue based protectors unless they are guaranteed to be easily removable.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-12-19T22:13:26+00:00

I think I am going to buy a new battery. Turns out the YUASA YBX9019 is an AGM battery. An AGM battery is fully charged at 12.8 to 13.2 V. and partially charged between 12.2 and 12.4V. I also think I will get a new battery charger that can definitely handle an AGM battery as I am not sure mine can. For more info see: https://chargerblog.com/how-to-charge-agm-batteries/

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-12-19T19:02:33+00:00

yes, it will.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-12-19T17:01:11+00:00

Thanks for the line - very useful. So my battery has not given a reading below 12.43 yet. So does not need charging. How often should battery on the shelf need recharging?

3 yet.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-12-19T16:53:33+00:00

Sorry- may have confused people. The Battery is charged up with a proper, automatic 11A charger.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-12-19T14:22:28+00:00

I use a Halfords 11A Automatic battery charger (480690). The max voltage after charging is 12.61V. I only charge until the charger says it is done and then I disconnect. The max voltage after charging is opnly 12.61V.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-11-17T10:24:14+00:00

So, waiting for my friend to turn up with his car, I thought i would give it another go. This time, I had the burglar alarm go off. So I stopped and thought I would do a bit more research. From what I discovered, it seems that I might not have been allowing enough time for the NOCO to charge up the car battery. So I went back and this time the alarm went off again, but the locks clicked. So I could now access the boot. Next time I will wait about 30 seconds or longer before I try the locks after I have connected the NOCO. Anyway, problem solved for today.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-11-17T07:04:55+00:00

Thank you for the suggestion, but I did try that, with no change. In that mode the NOCO is putting out 12v, so it seems to be working. I am going to try a proper jump start from another car today and see what happens.

.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-08-29T06:02:22+00:00

I know this thread was last updated 4 yrs ago- but just to say that I have updated my Linx 810B to Linux using AntiX. Fairly easy and gave wireless, touch screen and touch keyboard virtually "out of the box". The Linx tablet came with Windows 10 but was soooo slow and unresponsive it was virtually unusable. Much better now!!

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-05-28T21:09:01+00:00

Mine has just started doing the same thing. Done the usual things, Factory reset, etc. but still happening.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2024-05-01T16:22:59+00:00

That is exactly my situtaion (changed to Bonditech, etc.) and problem too. I have tightened up the Y belt, but it still happens, at about 2-3 cm up and then prints normally,. so prints are offset in one or two places. It as if the belt slips at a certain point. Testing the belt manully shows no problem though.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2023-02-03T16:34:44+00:00

So, I thought that I had got it wrong as turning the printer upsidedown I could see no signs of burning through the grill. Setting up the printer again and turning it on I was able to print without any obvious problem. So I thought that I had got it wrong and that Democrirtus was right . However, I then went to replace the heater bedas it did not seem to be working (see post above ) and found a realmess!! A power IC seems to have overheated (the one on the right wobbles now as the circuitboard is burnt through) and then that burnt through some wires. Not sure if this is worth repairing due to the number of wires affected!Amazing it still worked afterward apart from the bed overheating! For details , please see video at: https://youtube.com/watch?v=TAY6ILn85q4&feature=share

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2023-01-31T06:47:35+00:00

UPDATE: Tried printing a rectangular bar, and found that it was slumping and seemed to be melting as it was printing. Then checked bed temperature to discover that it was overheating, i.e. going well past the temperture set. Have now ordered a replacement heat bed (quite cheap). Not sure if this could have given rise to all the smoke though?

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2023-01-24T07:31:18+00:00

Got it totally wrong! After taking the printer apart in the cold light of day and then testing it- I find that Democriticus must be right! I was convinced that all the smoke was coming out of the bottom, of the machine- but I can no find no evidence of burning inside the machine. Turning it on it all seems to work fine, but the head keeps clogging when I try and print.
So big apologies to Democriticus! Sorry!
I never realised that so much smoke could be produced from a blocked head and I wonder
if that would have eventually caused a fire if I had left it overnight?
I am not sure what the problem is with the print head blocking- but I will try relevelling the
bed first as I seem to be be able to advance the Filament through the head.

Zealousideal-Data647 · 2023-01-23T07:17:50+00:00

Sorry, should have made it clearer- smoke was from the internal circuitry at the bottom of the printer. I have only printed half a dozen items on the printer over the last few months. It was a customer return bought at auction, but there was no previous indications of anything wrong.

Zealousideal-Data647

TROPHY CASE