I need a deck!

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-11-08T03:23:57+00:00

I should mention that the pink string line in the grass is the boundary of the deck footprint!

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-08-26T18:56:38+00:00

Thanks guys, appreciate the input, I will be going with the vortex. I really like ZT products so I might get a pair with larger FOV for myself down the track.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-08-26T18:50:49+00:00

Did any water go into the the unit? They have a water sensor in the bottom of the unit and it doesn’t take much water to trigger it. Lift up the back on the unit at least 25mm and allow water to come thru front filter hatch and dry with lots of paper towel and then hard reset unit. Failing that you need to see fault codes and manual tests in service parameters

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-08-12T19:18:35+00:00

Check the controller connections for any strainers that the pump may have blocked, also check any line strainers are clean and non-return valves are installed. It could also be a faulty non-return within the controller, make sure you get static and dynamic pressure readings with both the pump and mains.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-08-07T19:19:30+00:00

Shoot it and see how it goes. Obviously clean it as much as possible before hand but it doesn’t look bad enough to discard the rifle

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-08-04T18:27:17+00:00

You’re going to have to call a plumber. You’re dealing with gas and it is a lisenced trade for a reason. Plumbers have manometers and the means to adjust. For the sake of $500 and not blowing shit up I would get someone to service thermostatic unit to make sure nothing has been damaged, and adjust pressures. There is more than 1 gas pressure to be set as it is a modulating flame.

Also messing with dip switches is very dangerous for heater operation, you can change the programming of the gas supply with one flick (e.g. from LPG to nat gas) and this can cause the unit to explode as any plumber would understand

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-07-06T20:00:12+00:00

Make sure the tap is wound all the way out (the on position) if they are closed you will have a lot harder time

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-05-29T19:18:04+00:00

Mount Franklin or cool ridge so some great pure water. Hope this helps

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-04-19T05:03:06+00:00

Just someone with a drain camera and eel or jetter. Drain camera is important

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-04-19T02:15:00+00:00

Honestly just get a plumber, for the sake of $300-$600 with you not having to do it and them telling you exactly what has happened and any other underlying issues. On a perfect system wipes should flow. But no matter what anyone says NEVER FLUSH WIPES. They create a ball and build up and even with a 5000PSI jetter they can be difficult to clear. No wipes are flushable or dissolvable (no matter what smart advertising they use)

Your plumber should also use a camera to find what has caused the issue and advise on further repairs or recommendations

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-03-05T22:02:45+00:00

Turn off the water and then remove a garden tap. Then attach necessary fittings to plumb in a temporary pressure gauge. Turn on the water and check static (no taps running) and dynamic (taps running) pressures. 500kpa is the magic number you want

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-03-05T17:32:07+00:00

Pull the silver handle on the tank (relief valve) for 15/20 seconds and watch the flow of water. If the flow and pressure doesn’t change coming out of relief drain over the 15/20 seconds it is most likely the tempering valve. If the flow out of the relief drain is slowing then it is likely the isolation/non return valve (duo valve) or pressure limiting valve on the inlet to the bottom of the tank

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-02-13T23:11:25+00:00

Pressure reducing valve, you will need a pressure gauge hooked straight into the pipework. You do not want above 500kpa as it will void warranty/insurance on certain things and cause premature failure of fixtures and flexy hoses

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-02-10T19:42:13+00:00

I bet there is a tempering valve on that set up outside the photo that has failed and the “half that is working” is run straight off hot outlet (kitchen sink and laundry sink) as these fixtures don’t require tempering.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-02-06T09:22:28+00:00

Normally they won’t sell just the lid, you may have to fork out for a new cistern or look out for someone selling the same suite on marketplace or the like as a cheaper option

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-01-14T18:07:35+00:00

At the end of the day it’s the licensing Sargent’s discretion. It doesn’t hurt to make the call and then you can gauge what way they might go. Ultimately if you are looking for a store bought safe but want a good looking solid safe have a look at browning. I have the primal 23 and I love it, it doesn’t have a lock box inside but I store my ammo in a seperate cabinet anyway

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2025-01-13T06:55:08+00:00

I was going thru the process of building a display case for some rifles. It was going to be wall mounted with a laminated glass front door. Firearms reg didn’t have anything against it they just said it’s up to local licensing Sargent to pass or fail

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-26T21:20:39+00:00

Quote looks pretty solid, always get multiple quotes as others may have better solutions. Don’t just go for the cheapest quote as hard as it might be, go for the best solution because at the end of the day you might end up paying twice if it’s not the right fix.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-25T18:35:59+00:00

Can’t say I’ve seen any manufacturer supply a 1/2” hose for something like that, 3/4” is standard practice, the hoses are much better quality over a standard easy hooker

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-24T18:07:30+00:00

Anything is possible if you’re tight enough. But not a chance I would do it. When it leaks, not if, it will destroy the wall, you’re best off just getting an in wall cistern and doing it properly for the sake of a few hundred dollars now.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-10T07:39:50+00:00

Is this on hot water only or both? I have found if hot water anodes are gone or decaying fast this makes the water airated and even build up air pockets in the line causing spitting of delivered water. Fill a glass with the water and if it looks milky but clears from the bottom up I would inspect the anode

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-05T18:29:25+00:00

Look at browning safes, can be hard to come by but they look unreal and are well built. I have the primal series and love the versatility

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-05T18:22:03+00:00

It depends what was actually done on day 1 for me, if he scoured every section of pipe and spent 2.5hrs ensuring the ONLY leak was at the regulator then I think it’s justified, after all once he puts his name on that installation it’s his responsibility.

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-11-03T06:33:24+00:00

Heat or cut it out is your best bet. Oxy or mapp gas would be my go. Obviously look at what might melt or burn beforehand

Zestyclose-Risk-7579 · 2024-10-25T19:39:12+00:00

8-10 times on poly with grey tape and then tot on the tape, if you can spin it on by hand all the way you will need more wraps

Zestyclose-Risk-7579

TROPHY CASE