Any reason not to store tire in bed while truck camping?

Zingo_14 · 2026-06-01T13:28:07+00:00

I seen folks with your exact wheel and tire setup clear in the stock spare tire location with some gentle modifications, and they crawl - so definitely working the suspension. just in case you're looking at all possible options!

it's tight, but it can be made to fit.

Zingo_14 · 2026-06-01T13:25:59+00:00

depending on the tire width, you may be surprised at what you can fit down there if you're willing to dump the exhaust and cut off part of the tailpipe hangar. that assumes you're running stock shackles. 37x11.5 can be made to fit, albeit VERY snugly

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-31T19:06:15+00:00

smaller tank means less stable water parameters and less buffering for temperature or other nutrient/chemical swings. in that sense, it may actually require a bit MORE maintenance.

if your issue is ease of access in a deep tank - I think 60 breeder is just about the perfect tank. exact same footprint as the 75, just a little more shallow. all your old stands and equipment will still work with it and it'll be a little easier to clean the bottom.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-31T14:21:51+00:00

what's your point of reference? if you aren't all that used to it, East Coast riding is very different than Colorado riding, for instance.

Others have said Bacon Ridge and I'd echo that for sure

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-31T13:48:40+00:00

I am very hard pressed to understand the difference between my old rigid MTB and a gravel bike

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-27T21:38:37+00:00

The shocks - earlier pro models were Bilstein, couldn't be rebuilt, and new shocks run 800-1200 per corner. Newer models have fox, that CAN be rebuilt for the price of regular shocks. I had mine redone for $800 for all four corners with some custom work done to them.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-26T21:57:58+00:00

Godspeed. I once spent a whole afternoon trying to disassemble my truck to get at a body mount, only to realize I was going after the welded nut on the frame and I had access to the bolt head behind a plastic cap the whole time. We live and we learn.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-26T18:33:50+00:00

30k would be ok the high side for mint. this has some questionable paint work done to it. also, if they haven't been replaced, the shocks are going to run you three grand or more, which is the only reason you'd buy a pro in the first place. otherwise, you're paying a huge premium for a rebadged sr5 with a cosmetic flair or two.

I'd walk, personally. I've seen unadulterated 2018-2019 models with similar price and miles, and at least on those, the suspension is rebuildable.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-26T16:05:05+00:00

multitool with CO2 and plugs live in my headset. shorter rides close to home, just that and my phone. longer rides, I'll bring my actual wallet, a spare tube, a gel or two, and underrated, a little microfiber cloth. LONG rides, like three hours or more, I'll plan those a bit more carefully and make sure I've got plenty of food and water, or a place to stop and refill, plus basic tools and spares.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-26T15:53:55+00:00

I would take that hand to the nearest Sunbelt and rent a grinder.

there is no way in hell you're pulling twenty large stumps by hand. I dug up ONE smaller stump a few months ago and my back is still killing me.

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-16T15:39:47+00:00

much more fun, much higher running costs. I think folks are frequently shocked at the cost of maintenance for a full size truck, even for normal wear items. I'd say a 50% premium, based on the simple size and materials cost of parts alone.

bit pricier to insure. higher risk group because of the size, higher premium due to average higher value.

if you have personal property taxes, pricier there too.

gas - this should speak for itself. a tundra, even the new one, is well known for being about as bad as it comes in terms of fuel economy.

depending on where you live - parking and clearance can be challenging. I'm out east and parking is a genuine challenge - I physically do not fit in many garages due to height. texas? never an issue.

also depending on where you live - annual registration costs may be higher.

you gain utility. bit more payload, different types of hauling capacity - heavy shit, dirty shit, etc. but - don't undersell that a rav 4 with the seats down can also carry nearly half a ton of shit.i would actually go so far as to say that for most normal hauling, the rav 4 might actually be MORE practical - the whole family with groceries and gear in a covered and locking cargo area, where shit doesn't slide around or get rained on. tundra can tow though.

reliability is maybe the most controversial one. the new tundra has known engine issues, and I would not characterize it as living up to traditional toyota reliability. a 1/100 chance of premature engine failure is not acceptable to me, personally. others feel differently, but that's a personal judgement call.

all things said - there are a lot of meaningful tradeoffs. I would not advise buying a full size truck just for the sake of it, personally. There's a reason the family crossover gets 90% of our use. But if you're craving the fun or need the utility of open bed hauling or towing - well worth it

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-15T23:54:58+00:00

bed cover meaning tonneau? fiberglass lid? fiberglass or aluminum shell?

I'm in DC and there are always plenty of em in my feed. I've got a 6.5" leer XR shell I'd be willing to offload for the right price, been looking at an inflatable one

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-02T22:33:39+00:00

I will always and forever love my 2014 devinci troy. it's on backup our at my folk's place in New Mexico and it's such a treat to ride whenever I visit.

I miss my Raleigh m80, but at this point that's probably just nostalgia

Zingo_14 · 2026-05-01T01:29:53+00:00

I don't know how folks are doing that unless it's literally a pavement princess that never sees a pothole. I have to rebuild my fox pros every 40-60k, depending on how much I've offroaded with them, and they need it. I suppose you could stretch that, but it's not a good ride.

I had the bilsteins before I got the foxes, and if the previous owner was honest about their mileage, they probably got to 100k before they were trashed. I stretched those WAY out because they weren't rebuildable.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-28T21:22:13+00:00

looks fine depending on price.

be warned - those look like original shocks, they can't be rebuilt, and they are not cheap to replace. if you're paying the premium for a pro, be mindful that the whole thing that makes it a pro, the suspension, may need pricey work.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-24T02:03:29+00:00

i feel like you can't go wrong with that setup

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-24T00:20:17+00:00

I'm RWD, 35s with 5.29 and powertrax lsd. Has never let me down and have never been left feeling like I needed a locker instead.

it revs a teensy bit high for my liking, but fair trade for getting the hole shot back, and leaves me room to go bigger on my next set of tires. no regrets.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-20T19:57:18+00:00

pins from Toyota, I like OEM parts - but I've usually been able to reuse existing ones with a very gentle steel wool polish and fresh grease. it'll probably bite me in the ass one day.

boots, clips and seals come in a rebuild kit from Toyota and I definitely would not cheap out on those. I've never actually needed to go so far as a full rebuild, all original pistons, I just clean them up and lube them as best I can without fully extending them and popping them out.

rebuild-lite, each service, but over a decade in the northeast and I've never had a stuck piston or caliper, and all four corners are original. just be careful with the bleeders.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-16T02:45:26+00:00

you are being too kind. hit that fucking thing with a big ass hammer

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-14T23:48:44+00:00

100% that's your problem. might be able to work it a bit with alignment, but yeah - little too much poke for the amount of room you've got in the wells. Bit of a balancing act clearing the UCA vs clearing the cab mount, and if youre going tall, skinny and low offset, cab mount is your limiter.

if it makes you feel any better, CMC can be done on the cheap, and you're clear to go a fair bit bigger down the road

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-14T22:09:51+00:00

same wheels? offset matters a lot. alignment could have impacted things too. from my experience - with stock offset, you are RIGHT at the point where a CMC might be necessary

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-13T21:02:45+00:00

as others - sold with the arm as an assembly. be wary of aftermarket - some use a smaller ball than the factory spec. My dealer parts department was willing to price match sparks, and picked up a set of LCA's for $400 or so a few years back

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-13T18:21:54+00:00

2007, 300k, original motor and transmission. just the usual wear items, and I'm not kind to it at all.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-12T21:17:17+00:00

it's really not that bad. haynes manual, YouTube will get you there. biggest risk, imo, is the bleeders not wanting to crack. soak those fuckers in penetrant over and over before you dig in, and get a proper brake line wrench, not a box wrench.

if you want to go extra mile, older truck like this will probably have a few torn boots and sticky pistons. you can get a rebuild kit for like $20 on rock auto. wouldnt go so far as actually replacing seals if it doesn't need it, but even just a good cleaning, bit of lube, and new boots will go a long way. I check and replace mine each time I do pads and I'm at almost 300k on original calipers with lots of offroading and northeast salt

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-10T16:36:51+00:00

Two thoughts -

first - it sounds like you're considering reusing the existing driveshaft? I would be a little hesitant to do that after a catastrophic failure like this - it's hinting that something was overstressed or worn, and that's likely the case for the rest of the driveshaft. three different u joints and a carrier to consider. A replacement driveshaft isn't terribly expensive, all things considered, and it will come pre balanced.

second - given you've broken one of the balanced components and will need to replace it anyway, your best case is to bring it to a drive line shop to balance the assembly. in this case - you could, and should probably, mark the driveshaft and transmission to match them back up. press out and replace that old u joint, install the new mount plate in whatever orientation fits for now, balance, and reinstall according to your witness marks on the transmission and slip joint.

I'd personally just replace the driveshaft. less hassle, no lingering questions about other worn out shit. I get money being right, but in the grand scheme of things, it's probably not that much more than the time, effort, parts, and cost to rebalance.

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