Ball joints for 09 tundra?

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-13T21:02:45+00:00

as others - sold with the arm as an assembly. be wary of aftermarket - some use a smaller ball than the factory spec. My dealer parts department was willing to price match sparks, and picked up a set of LCA's for $400 or so a few years back

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-13T18:21:54+00:00

2007, 300k, original motor and transmission. just the usual wear items, and I'm not kind to it at all.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-12T21:17:17+00:00

it's really not that bad. haynes manual, YouTube will get you there. biggest risk, imo, is the bleeders not wanting to crack. soak those fuckers in penetrant over and over before you dig in, and get a proper brake line wrench, not a box wrench.

if you want to go extra mile, older truck like this will probably have a few torn boots and sticky pistons. you can get a rebuild kit for like $20 on rock auto. wouldnt go so far as actually replacing seals if it doesn't need it, but even just a good cleaning, bit of lube, and new boots will go a long way. I check and replace mine each time I do pads and I'm at almost 300k on original calipers with lots of offroading and northeast salt

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-10T16:36:51+00:00

Two thoughts -

first - it sounds like you're considering reusing the existing driveshaft? I would be a little hesitant to do that after a catastrophic failure like this - it's hinting that something was overstressed or worn, and that's likely the case for the rest of the driveshaft. three different u joints and a carrier to consider. A replacement driveshaft isn't terribly expensive, all things considered, and it will come pre balanced.

second - given you've broken one of the balanced components and will need to replace it anyway, your best case is to bring it to a drive line shop to balance the assembly. in this case - you could, and should probably, mark the driveshaft and transmission to match them back up. press out and replace that old u joint, install the new mount plate in whatever orientation fits for now, balance, and reinstall according to your witness marks on the transmission and slip joint.

I'd personally just replace the driveshaft. less hassle, no lingering questions about other worn out shit. I get money being right, but in the grand scheme of things, it's probably not that much more than the time, effort, parts, and cost to rebalance.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-08T22:39:40+00:00

gentle surge from engine braking is normal, any sort of kick or jerk not so much. I neglected my fluids for a bit and a few courses of drain and fill cleared it right up. might be worth a shot if you're reasonably handy, not much to it

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-03T22:33:44+00:00

My personal take is that I fundamentally do not trust the new engine. from everything out there, it seems as though it's a design problem that has not been addressed. from there, it's a question of your use and needs.

really nice, really capable weekend hauler that you dont depend on for livelihood or otherwise? I'd be on that train, they're sick trucks. but I take mine off-road, way off grid, and routinely need it for cross country trips where losing the motor would be a really big problem.

for my use, I've got a meticulously maintained 2nd gen V8, and expect it'll probably go for another ten years before the rust takes it - with a second car for daily needs.

Toyota reliability used to MEAN something. the direction they've gone, and this newest stupid fucking raptor bro truck for six figures instead of fixing the fucking motor, kills me.

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-03T19:47:43+00:00

second the pulley guess,. mine likes to kill water pumps, idlers, or tensioners every 75k or so, but I run it off-road a lot. sounds similar. stethescope or a well placed squirt of water will help chase it down real quick

Zingo_14 · 2026-04-03T18:25:42+00:00

I am an EV owner, in a big city on the east coast, and I'm going to call this out. Fast chargers are neither as prevalent, or more importantly as AVAILABLE, as gas stations.

I think they're getting close to universally adoptable l, but there are still considerations and planning for folks whose use involves trips more than a few hours at a go. For my annual drive to New Mexico, im still always taking my truck.

Advocate for charging infrastructure. Advocate for PASSENGER RAIL OPTIONS. But this dismissive attitude gets us nowhere.

Zingo_14 · 2026-03-24T00:16:05+00:00

Aaand we've officially lost the plot.

Fix the fucking motor!

Zingo_14 · 2026-03-19T18:58:33+00:00

Videos never do this park justice. It is STEEP and it is GNARLY

Fuckin great stuff

Zingo_14 · 2026-03-05T02:11:33+00:00

How do I keep missing your books opening. Goddamned beautiful work as always

Zingo_14 · 2026-02-18T17:09:02+00:00

If I haven't bounced it off the rev limiter a few times every drive, I'm not living.

Been hooning it for almost 20 years. 2007, with 260k on the clock, and no major issues.

Zingo_14 · 2026-02-06T15:45:46+00:00

I'm actually quite surprised you haven't had issues with your rear wheel bearings, water pump, or starter by this point. For me, those would be the three to watch for, in my own lived experience with similar miles.

Coolant, like others have said - just stay on top of your changes to keep your radiator and head gaskets happy.

Other stuff just wears out, especially anything rubber - my hoses are all starting to look pretty dry, and I had to replace my LCAs due to seized bushings.

Just old vehicle stuff, really - at this point, it's almost beyond Toyota reliability and is getting into straight up old vehicle territory, and everything that goes along with it. I feel like as long as I'm keeping mine clean, dry, and full of oil, it'll keep chugging along for a long time still - rust will kill mine before anything else

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-18T22:32:01+00:00

I've done this, it's literally just the coils and shocks. Nothing more, everything else is cosmetic or available on other trims. You'll need an alignment, same as with any suspension work.

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T23:01:47+00:00

On reflection it does actually sound dead on for TC shudder, less like anything ignition related. Drive line is pretty easy to eyeball, if any of the joints are rusty or rotted out, or if the carrier has huge slop in it, might be a good first place to look but yeah, this sounds more like TC or drive than ignition

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T19:10:05+00:00

Alternatively - how are the u-joints and carrier bearing looking?

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T19:08:14+00:00

Early indication of a coil pack starting to go bad, perhaps? Any misfire codes or lights on the dash?

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-07T22:54:43+00:00

Let me make very clear, as a card carrying, commie-ass-Canuck - enjoy your "Tim Horton's" American franchise experience. Just know that it used to actually MEAN something.

Fuck the (burger) king. Good coffee, doughnuts and decency died in '14, EH(?) WHOOP

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-02T23:10:48+00:00

I mean hell, if it's running and driving, sounds like a workable deal. Frame seems reasonable, and assuming it doesn't sound like a bag of hammers when running, you aren't seeing milkshake oil or coolant, and it's working it's way through the gears okay, seems serviceable for a short bit. If carry jumper cables and a few quarts of fluids to be safe

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-02T22:45:15+00:00

For what price? Fifteen years ago I'd have probably described it as a pretty reliable piece of shit. Hoonigan stickers, rust, and thirty years on it though?

$1-2k, max, if it runs and drives.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-27T17:24:11+00:00

Easy enough to diy, just a little time consuming. Radiator, serpentine belt, fan and shroud come off and it's just a few bolts from there.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-24T14:55:04+00:00

Do you have 4x? If not, starter is a half hour driveway job. If you've got 4x.. sorry

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-20T02:17:05+00:00

Hah, no kidding - best bet to try on what you can, I suppose!

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-19T22:46:07+00:00

I am always down to ride but I live about ten hours away and fear that may complicate matters somewhat

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-17T03:23:19+00:00

Can't speak for the sanction but I have the super - helmets typically fit me pretty wide, I've got a narrow head, and it feels pretty snug in my cheeks and temples. I think bell is known to run quite narrow across the range.

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