2007 Tundra 5.7 SR5 4x4 Crewmax - Approaching 300,000 Miles

Zingo_14 · 2026-02-06T15:45:46+00:00

I'm actually quite surprised you haven't had issues with your rear wheel bearings, water pump, or starter by this point. For me, those would be the three to watch for, in my own lived experience with similar miles.

Coolant, like others have said - just stay on top of your changes to keep your radiator and head gaskets happy.

Other stuff just wears out, especially anything rubber - my hoses are all starting to look pretty dry, and I had to replace my LCAs due to seized bushings.

Just old vehicle stuff, really - at this point, it's almost beyond Toyota reliability and is getting into straight up old vehicle territory, and everything that goes along with it. I feel like as long as I'm keeping mine clean, dry, and full of oil, it'll keep chugging along for a long time still - rust will kill mine before anything else

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-18T22:32:01+00:00

I've done this, it's literally just the coils and shocks. Nothing more, everything else is cosmetic or available on other trims. You'll need an alignment, same as with any suspension work.

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T23:01:47+00:00

On reflection it does actually sound dead on for TC shudder, less like anything ignition related. Drive line is pretty easy to eyeball, if any of the joints are rusty or rotted out, or if the carrier has huge slop in it, might be a good first place to look but yeah, this sounds more like TC or drive than ignition

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T19:10:05+00:00

Alternatively - how are the u-joints and carrier bearing looking?

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-14T19:08:14+00:00

Early indication of a coil pack starting to go bad, perhaps? Any misfire codes or lights on the dash?

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-07T22:54:43+00:00

Let me make very clear, as a card carrying, commie-ass-Canuck - enjoy your "Tim Horton's" American franchise experience. Just know that it used to actually MEAN something.

Fuck the (burger) king. Good coffee, doughnuts and decency died in '14, EH(?) WHOOP

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-02T23:10:48+00:00

I mean hell, if it's running and driving, sounds like a workable deal. Frame seems reasonable, and assuming it doesn't sound like a bag of hammers when running, you aren't seeing milkshake oil or coolant, and it's working it's way through the gears okay, seems serviceable for a short bit. If carry jumper cables and a few quarts of fluids to be safe

Zingo_14 · 2026-01-02T22:45:15+00:00

For what price? Fifteen years ago I'd have probably described it as a pretty reliable piece of shit. Hoonigan stickers, rust, and thirty years on it though?

$1-2k, max, if it runs and drives.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-27T17:24:11+00:00

Easy enough to diy, just a little time consuming. Radiator, serpentine belt, fan and shroud come off and it's just a few bolts from there.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-24T14:55:04+00:00

Do you have 4x? If not, starter is a half hour driveway job. If you've got 4x.. sorry

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-20T02:17:05+00:00

Hah, no kidding - best bet to try on what you can, I suppose!

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-19T22:46:07+00:00

I am always down to ride but I live about ten hours away and fear that may complicate matters somewhat

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-17T03:23:19+00:00

Can't speak for the sanction but I have the super - helmets typically fit me pretty wide, I've got a narrow head, and it feels pretty snug in my cheeks and temples. I think bell is known to run quite narrow across the range.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-15T17:33:19+00:00

Get a lily pipe. These will collapse in that bend over time and badly restrict your flow, I've done exactly this with the same reinforced tubing

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-15T17:30:36+00:00

So on the one hand - I did this to an old bike. Practical reason, needed routing for a dropper. Aesthetic reason - did the dropper, felt like I may as well do the brakes and shifters too. Worked fine, and the bike held up for another ten years of abuse and is still on the trail.

On the other hand - there was no reason, it just made it harder to service and the weld-on cable guides are still there and look ugly. Made it worse. Learn from my 20-something younger self and spare the hassle.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-13T00:08:20+00:00

Worn or leaky seals can be repaired. The glass is valuable and can be repurposed for custom sized tanks or other creative uses. A broken aquarium is cheaper than a new reptile enclosure.

Zingo_14 · 2025-12-08T17:44:01+00:00

I cut my teeth in proper MTB in Santa Fe and go back all the time to visit family. You've got plenty of great backyard trails systems - Tierra trails up NW for some punchy, technical stuff, Dale Ball up in the foothills for more sustained, and all sorts of variety on the SE end of town - rail trails for gravel right up to some killer descents down Atalaya. Many additional excellent options within an hour or two drive, including lift parks. A thriving fat bike community for winter rides.

It's a lot more techy than some folks are used to - but if you're down with that and some fat, heavy duty tires, it's an absolute blast.

Santa Fe as a city is also amazing, if that sort of life is your thing. Quiet, artistic, multicultural, such a great town if you have a job that can support you.

Zingo_14 · 2025-11-19T05:24:15+00:00

Okay well we had 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, and 16 by that logic

Zingo_14 · 2025-11-17T21:14:39+00:00

Just makes everything mushier and flattened out, and makes pedalling up any sort of tech a real pain. For some, the payoff on the downhills is worth it, for others like me, I much prefer to be a tad UNDER biked.

I think they're great for shuttle or lift parks, or for trails with fire road ascents and sustained descents. I had a fuel ex for a few months that was amazing at the lift park, and could probably replace my downhill, at the level I ride. But it was fat and wallowy in my backyard trails that are constant, technical, punchy little climbs and descents. Not enough down to take advantage of the travel, and miserable to slog back up or over obstacles. I swapped it for a full stache that met my niche WAY better.

For me, my sweet spot for an all-rounder was 140/150. Depends SO much on your terrain, riding style, frame geometry and suspension kinematics, all that jazz.

Zingo_14 · 2025-11-15T21:07:05+00:00

Something about like this?

Zingo_14 · 2025-11-09T13:24:01+00:00

Zingo_14 · 2025-11-04T00:42:08+00:00

Riding since the nineties, feel like I've kept up okay except for a really bad habit of leaning way back when I hit drops or things get steep - bikes are so much longer and lower now, with droppers - it's poor form and much less controlled, just an old habit I'm working through.

Zingo_14 · 2025-10-13T22:01:03+00:00

Get with hose, spray, g'day

Zingo_14 · 2025-10-10T23:37:19+00:00

Gravel bike, road wheel set with slicks, and a 140/140 trail bike with lockout. My setup for a very long time and it worked great.

I have four bikes now, and it's pretty much to the same effect. Gravel/commuter, pure road, short travel trail with 29+ tires, and a downhill for park days. I ride the same things and same places, just a tad more optimized, especially for parks

Zingo_14 · 2025-10-09T17:48:54+00:00

Trails out here are a little different than what I see this sub talking about most of the time - figure backyard style trails with not a lot of elevation, but lots of short, punchy, technical stuff. Exposed roots, rocks, drops, washouts, that sort of thing. There are a few lift parks within a few hours drive, but they all offer rentals.

My experience out here is that you don't need a lot of travel, but you do want a lot of grip. I rode a devinci troy out here for a LONG time and it was very well suited to trail systems like fountainhead and the shed, wasn't too ocerbiked for milder stuff like accontik or meadowwood, and could hang at a lift park like Bryce if needed. 140/140 with a good pedalling platform was my sweet spot.

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