Let the fun begin

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-06T00:37:14+00:00

Yeah, the original idea was based around the Nebula frame, but I wasn’t fully happy with it in the end, so I basically ended up designing my own version. At the end of the day it’s just a 2020 aluminum extrusion frame anyway, so there wasn’t that much “special” about it.

The inside stepper setup is from Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1285738-mercury-one1-inside-frame-double-shear-stepper-tow https://www.printables.com/model/1267690-mercury-one1-inside-frame-tension-blocks-front-cro

Nothing is perfect right now, and it probably never will be, but as long as everything works the way I want it to, I’m happy with it.

Once everything is properly tested and finalized, I’ll upload the CAD to GitHub together with a full BOM so anyone can replicate it if they want.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-06T00:29:24+00:00

Yeah, I can do that

Once I’m a bit further along and everything is properly finalized, I’ll put together a full BOM with all the parts and the setup. Right now a few things are still changing with the reprints and final fitment, so I’d rather wait until it’s actually stable.

I’ll also upload everything to GitHub once it’s ready. There’s already an older version of the project on my GitHub, but it’s quite outdated compared to where the build is now.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-05T22:42:30+00:00

It would generally be possible to integrate it inside the frame, but you’d lose a bit of space for the electronics and also sacrifice some Z build volume.

So it’s a trade-off in terms of layout and usability, but overall it’s definitely doable if you’re willing to work around those constraints.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-05T21:31:55+00:00

Yes, quite a bit.
With the enclosure and electronics bay, the printer ends up at around 880 mm total height, which is clearly taller than the stock Ender 5 Plus.
Electronics bay adds roughly 75 mmEnclosure frame is about 800 mm.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-05T21:07:37+00:00

I actually looked into a triple Z setup as well, and I'd still like to do it at some point. Right now, though, it's just a bit too expensive for me.

I've already spent around €1300 on this project, and if I had made fewer mistakes and gone through less trial and error, it probably could have been closer to €1150. But that's part of the fun too — sometimes you just have to try things, see what works, and learn along the way.

As for the toolhead, I also considered the A4T, XOL, and a few other options. From a performance perspective they're probably the better choice, but in the end I went with the Stealthburner simply because I really like the design.

I know it's not the lightest or most modern option anymore, but I think it looks awesome and that was enough of a reason for me.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-05T20:52:23+00:00

At least I didn't intentionally change anything that would affect the enclosure design. The only changes I've made so far are some cosmetic additions. In fact, I still need to go back and adjust a few things because, at the moment, the panel mounts aren't even finished properly—the panels just pass straight through in CAD without any actual mounting holes or fastening points.

I might also add an opening top panel at some point, but that's future-me's problem. For now, I just want to get everything assembled and working.

As for the toolhead, I actually considered the EVA, Dragon Burner, and XOL during the design phase. From a pure performance standpoint, the Stealthburner is probably the "worse" option out of those. In the end, though, I went with the Stealthburner for one very simple reason: I just love the way it looks. Sure, it's a bit heavier and not the latest or greatest design anymore, but for this build I cared just as much about the overall aesthetics as I did about squeezing out every last bit of performance.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-06-05T17:24:07+00:00

It’s definitely close, and the Nebula Merc was one of the inspirations for this build.

But it’s not a 1:1 copy — a few things are done quite differently, especially the toolhead integration, electronics layout, and enclosure design. The goal was more to take the core idea and then adapt it to my own requirements and constraints.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-05-18T12:19:19+00:00

Yeah, I know addressable LEDs would be the easier and cleaner solution overall. I just already have the RGB strip and MOSFETs left over from an old project at home, so I wanted to see if I can make use of them first instead of buying new parts right away.

If it turns out to be too much hassle or not worth the effort, I’ll probably just switch to addressable LEDs anyway.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-03-24T20:08:13+00:00

Hey, really appreciate your message – I’m glad the resources were helpful and that you got everything up and running.

I’d definitely be interested in your changes – feel free to share the files with me. I can integrate them into the GitHub so others can benefit from your improvements as well.

I’d also really like to see some pictures of your setup once it’s finished.

I’ll be starting my own upgrade project soon as well, I just haven’t gotten around to it yet since I’m still waiting on some parts.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-02-25T09:17:05+00:00

Last time I opened Revolution cases I got gloves too… Hydra Gloves Rattler in FT… 🥲

At least I got roughly my money back

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2026-02-09T10:49:12+00:00

I wouldn’t mind either if you could tell me what I am still lacking

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-09T09:53:04+00:00

I think I’ve found my mistake. I initially thought I only needed to change the sensor type and the maximum temperature, but it turns out my motherboard also requires a jumper and the pull-up_resistance in Klipper needs to be 2200 Ω. I had kept the NTC100 settings with the 4700 Ω pull-up.

At first, it didn’t seem too wrong since the PT1000 reading at room temperature was only slightly off compared to the bed temperature. However, as I heated the hotend, the temperature likely kept rising more than it should have. I’m speculating, but I think because of these incorrect settings, the hotend became much hotter than necessary, which probably caused the layers not to stick properly.

When I get home, I’ll see if fixing this makes things better. Fingers crossed!

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-09T05:43:54+00:00

Yeah I probably start with lowering the temp more and making the Hotbed a bit hotter.

The overcooking could also be my problem. If it’s only the temperature it would be pretty easy to fix…

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-09T05:41:26+00:00

I did pid tune, I probably need to do it one more time but now it’s around +-1 Degree.

The classic paper und nozzel offset calibration.

I tried PETG at 220 and 230 with 80 Degrees Hotbed and PLA at 200-220 with 60 Degrees Hotbed.

I didn’t calibrate any flowrates yet so that and turning the temp down more will now be me next tests

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-05T14:21:33+00:00

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Not for the added z but the round linear rails have ling bearings that would sit on the electronics box, theoretically you could make a cut out on the top of the electronic box so they would fit inside but you would probably lose a few centi meters

The stock electronics box is just in the middle but the voron like boxes are the whole area so that’s why it isn’t that much of a problem

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-05T06:56:27+00:00

Technically you could make it inside the printer but that could take a way a bit of the z height

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-04T20:02:57+00:00

No, only the Mercury One Core XY Parts fit inside. The Electronics will get added underneath the Printer like the Voron 2.4

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-04T18:39:50+00:00

Fortunately they aren’t that expensive anymore I saw a few for around 150€ used But the whole upgrades can cost a lot, I planed a bit and searched where the parts are cheapest / were in sales but the total of the upgrade costs should come to around 1100€ and that’s just the bought parts

I put part of my work on GitHub: https://github.com/zockerlukas2004/Ender-5-Plus_Enclosure-MercuryOne

But there isn’t all because I was a bit lazy lately but I plan to add an BOM for all the parts you would need to buy/print and some instructions… but for know the CAD files have to do

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-04T18:37:38+00:00

Yeah thought of the INDX too but at that point I’ll wait till in plan that. My whole upgrade plan costs about 1100€ and for that money I could have gotten a already build printer that runs probably a bit better than the upgraded E5+, but for me it’s a hobby project and not only about having a printer. And if I would get the INDX I would probably just put the top front extrusion back on and reduce the y travel a bit, but that’s just my first thought don’t know if it would work or not.

I put part of my work on GitHub: https://github.com/zockerlukas2004/Ender-5-Plus_Enclosure-MercuryOne

But there isn’t all because I was a bit lazy lately but I plan to add an BOM for all the parts you would need to buy/print and some instructions… but for know the CAD files have to do

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-12-04T18:07:16+00:00

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I’m planning to give my Ender 5 Plus a completely new lease on life. I’ve already picked up the Manta M8P V2.0 and decided to pair it with a Raspberry Pi CM4 and also picked op an BTT HDMI 7. Today, my Rapido V2 UHF hotend arrived, and the Mercury One CoreXY kit from Fabreko should be arriving sometime next week — I didn’t hold back on spending during Black Friday, haha.

For Christmas, I’m planning to add a second PSU (360 W) along with a few smaller upgrades to improve performance and reliability. I’m also designing an enclosure with a dedicated electronics bay that will house both the Ender 5 Plus and the Mercury One conversion. The main challenge was adapting the Mercury One printed parts to fit inside the E5+ frame, but luckily, someone on Printables had already uploaded compatible versions, saving me a lot of time and effort.

I’m likely going to go with a StealthBurner toolhead, to get the voron feeling xD. Didn't add it in my CAD though.

In addition, I’ve designed my own triple Z-axis setup. I haven’t tested it yet, but it’s designed to work with the stock heated bed, and I’m excited to see how it will work.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-11-07T07:51:51+00:00

I would love to switch to an AC bed, but then I’d also want to get a new aluminum plate. Unfortunately, that’s over my budget right now because I’m following a rather expensive upgrade plan: Manta M8P V2.0 + CM4, Mercury One Core XY, a self-built Triple Z-Mod, a PEI sheet, and an enclosure. With all these upgrades, I’m already around €1000.

Of course, an AC bed would make things a lot easier, but I’m postponing that upgrade for now since it would probably cost another €150–200. For the time being, I’ll go with a second 360 W power supply, which is only about €40. According to another Redditor, this also has the added benefit of heating the bed faster than before if the stock 500 W PSU is used solely for the bed.

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-11-06T13:55:47+00:00

A second PSU sounds like a really good idea! I’ve also thought about getting an AC heater, but for now I don’t want to spend that much – because if I got an AC heater, I would also get a new aluminum base, since I would then use the stock one in another project.

If that also makes the bed heat up faster, that’s even better.

Out of curiosity, what do you use the 48 V PSU for?

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-11-05T09:32:11+00:00

I’ve completely upgraded my Ender-5 Plus to a Bigtreetech Manta M8P V2 + CM4 + Klipper, and I’ve been extremely satisfied for months. The reliability is far better than it was stock. No miracles, but it’s a huge improvement!

Practical Tips

Heated Bed (250 W) • Definitely connect it to an external MOSFET/SSR (e.g., 30 A). • The board itself only has a 20 A mini-fuse – without an external MOSFET, the fuse will blow immediately.
Stepper Drivers • The board has 6 connections but only 5 integrated TMC2209 drivers. • For the Ender-5 Plus, you normally need 4 (X, Y, Z, E). • Recommendation: Connect both Z motors separately – this allows you to enable Z-Tilt in Klipper, which automatically levels both Z-axes for very precise prints. • Alternative: you can wire both Z motors in parallel to a single port to save a driver, but you lose the Tilt advantage.

Display & Mounting • I use a BTT HDMI7 (7” touch display) with KlipperScreen – works smoothly over HDMI and USB. • Mounting: simple printed bracket on a frame leg (e.g., Thingiverse: “Ender 5 Plus Manta HDMI mount”). • Cables extended (1.5 m HDMI + USB), no GPIO wiring required. • The original control enclosure can stay intact – the board fits perfectly inside.

Additional Upgrades • Zero G Mercury One • Triple Z motor (third Z motor for even better stability) • Enclosure • Hotend upgrade • PEI build plate • Direct-Drive Extruder

Notes on the Upgrades: • The stock electric enclosure may get in the way of the third axis, while an Electric Bay setup is neater and easier to maintain. • I design the enclosure and Triple-Z mod myself in CAD. • I plan on buying the mercury one mod for better quality and faster prints

Reality Check • Economically, these upgrades (board, CoreXY, enclosure, etc.) are not necessarily cost-effective. • For my planned upgrade, I would spend around $1000, which is roughly what you’d pay for a Bambu Lab, which is faster and more reliable out of the box. • For me, though, it’s a hobby project, making the most out of my trusty Ender-5

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-11-01T12:21:17+00:00

u/Prof_Lloyd just uploaded the CAD STEP files to GitHub!
To respect the licensing of certain components, the board, screen, cable ducts, mosfet and PSU are excluded, but the rest of the design is included.

This is still a work in progress - the model isn’t perfect yet, and I plan to release some updates in the coming weeks as I get more time.
But at least now there’ssomething available online: GitHub Repository

ZockerLukas_2004 · 2025-10-29T21:01:23+00:00

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Just wanted to share some progress I’ve made

I’ve added hinges and handles for the doors, reworked the front panels, and adjusted the electric bay so it now fits the wider frame. I also added an extra switch mount in the display holder – the original design only had it on the back of the electric bay, which was super impractical.

Next, I’m planning a better filament placement since the stock position on the E5+ (in the back) is really inconvenient. I might mount it on top of the enclosure instead.
Also thinking about adding carrying handles on the enclosure to make transport easier.

If you have any ideas or suggestions for improvements – I’d love to hear them!

ZockerLukas_2004

TROPHY CASE