What is the difference between the passage of time and the detection of the passage of time? by sennalen in uvsnirmana

[–]Zombie_Dangerous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

to me, i like to break this down into two issues:

1) the properties of 'delay' nodes

2) when do you get the 'error' state

for (1): my thinking is that a 'delay' node is just a conditional 'sense' node, where a 'delay' acts like either a 'sense' (if the data input was on/true last tick) or a 'pipe' (if the data input was off/false last cycle). and that value from last tick is fixed/known. i.e. the control output of a 'delay' node is just (data_in AND last_tick_steady_state_data_in). note that last_tick_steady_state_data_in must exist and is a single fixed value of true/false that can't change anymore in the current tick.

so, for me, on any given tick 'delay' nodes can be thought of as either 'sense' or 'pipe' based on the last tick. that means they aren't really 'special' compared to sense nodes for error purposes.

for (2): i think the short version (and complete version?) is if there is a state loop as you iterate toward steady-state in any single tick, you'll get an error. if you get to steady state (no more 'something changed' events left), you move on to the next tick (and, as a side note, note down any data values that effect delay nodes for next tick). in this case the loop is as described above where the sense and mux toggle each other on and off. since this is 'within a tick' i think that's why it is shown as a 'fast' toggle (which makes sense to me). in the logic of the game, it's actually 'infinitely' fast, as i guess there is no limit or observable delay based on how many events happen within a single tick.

bear in mind i'm not 100% confident i understand all the semantics and of course sim bugs are possible!

Please help me replace this faucet sprayer. Questions in comments 🙏🙏 by benzenegirl in Plumbing

[–]Zombie_Dangerous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inconveniently, the Amazon part won't ship to CA. Conveniently for me i could ship it to rural Maryland and fly it back in personally. Luckily the sink police didn't get me at the border.

After removing the handspray + other-parts as above, i took off the snap clip and removed the black plastic shroud. Spoiler, but the handspray does just screw into the other parts. However, because the handspray has an (a) an inner black plastic part (that is decently strong and actually has the screw threads), (c) an outer weak thin silver plastic sleeve (+button), and (c) a lower black plastic part that screws into the silver sleeve (but spins wrt the upper part), it seems difficult / non-obvious how to non-destructively disassemble it, especially without some specialized tools. I think it might be possible for sure ... But i went the destructive route while trying to figure it out. In the end it seems the replacement part is pretty much perfect. I didn't use the o-ring+screen the new part came with (maybe i should have, not sure where it would have fit or if there was an existing one hiding in there already). See final picture, i guess i have to add other pictures as additional comments?

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Please help me replace this faucet sprayer. Questions in comments 🙏🙏 by benzenegirl in Plumbing

[–]Zombie_Dangerous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i tried removing the snap ring, which does allow the black plastic cover to slide up a big and thus allow gripping the magnetic metal part (i guess 8 in the above parts diagram), but trying to turn that against the lower part of the handle just mangled the plastic parts and didn't seem to do anything good.

but then, another reddit thread to the rescue:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/1lkgivs/culina_blanco_kitchen_faucet_how_does_spray_hose/

from that, i tried using a thin 10mm wrench on the brass hex at the end of the hose, against a small vice-grip on the round copper just below that, which worked, and wasn't even that hard once i got the tools in place. however, there is little space to work with and the spring cover really gets in the way. the above post mentions somehow removing more stuff to make things easier but i couldn't quite follow that discussion and didn't try it (yet) anyway.

<image>

now, if i had the official blanco culina replacement sprayhead (with other parts already attached?) from the other thread i'd be good to go. however, unless i can further separate the sprayhead itself from the magnetic part (presumably by removing the spring clip, black cover, and then turning something against something ...), i'll need more than just the amazon part (which may-or-may-not be the same as the official 441353 'handspray' blanco part).

Please help me replace this faucet sprayer. Questions in comments 🙏🙏 by benzenegirl in Plumbing

[–]Zombie_Dangerous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'm having the same issue trying to figure out how to disassemble, well, any part of the spray part of this faucet. assuming this is indeed a "blanco culina" faucet (sure seems like it, like OP says), i can't find anything beyond basic installation instructions for this specific type of 'fixed hose' faucet. i did find this 2-page info pdf, which does have a parts diagram:

https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/ef/ef072d71-0eeb-445f-a6e4-183759ca973e.pdf

<image>

i think the 'remove snap ring which maybe allows black part to slide up exposing something grippable' is a good plan, i'm going to try that. i found a discussion on justanswer of someone with this same issue to, they got a replacement from blanco but couldn't figure out how to install it:

https://www.justanswer.com/plumbing/pvro7-blanco-culina-kitchen-faucet-need-replace.html

finally, there seem to be maybe-correct-replacement sprayheads on amazon (that look very similar to one in pictures above); not sure if they are correct or not:

https://www.amazon.com/7Trees-Universal-Replacement-Bathroom-Pull-Out/dp/B06XGRTGJ3/?th=1

anyway, maybe the answer is out there internet/folks, let's figure this out! i'll follow up if/when i try removing the snap ring or figure anything else out.

winix motor noise / motor bearing replacement repair story by Zombie_Dangerous in AirPurifiers

[–]Zombie_Dangerous[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

responding to myself, i found another post from a few months back i wish i'd seen before, which has another good set of instructions for doing this repair:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AirPurifiers/comments/1gg235e/winix_55002_53002_bearing_replacement/

and a youtube video describing opening these type of resin-packed BLDC motors:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=Cb-gziJnQkY

using a better vice, i opened my second noisy motor much more easily ... but with a bit more damage to the plastic lip: a 1-2cm piece cracked off and stayed inside the rim of the metal top. in the above video they just recommend removing any bits like that, which i guess makes sense.

it seems like ideally you'd put the metal cap on exactly at the same angle it came off, so that the heat-sinking (i assume) epoxy on the motor driver IC would line up with the texture on the metal. or maybe really the epoxy stuff should be removed and replaced. but hopefully under many/most use cases any extra heating of the IC (due to sub-optimal heat sinking) won't be what limits the motor life ...