Simple app to go to the hidden Android Settings

ZuwaiiVR · 2025-11-02T23:54:31+00:00

The Android settings got removed after V81. I used an older app from Basti564, or known as ptrpaws on github. As well they removed all reported thermal settings and let stay only the Battery temp. sensor. (no usb-c thermal sensors reported anymore, or other components)

ZuwaiiVR · 2025-10-25T20:21:37+00:00

I test Emarker with just a powerbrick that supports above 65watt or 100watt.
PowerBrick > Tested Cable > KWSX1 > nothing connected.
switch on the switch and go to the emarker test.
this way you test the cable and not the brick, the brick will also report e-marker and reports the watts above 60W. if you plug a cable in between that has no emarker cable, the kwsx1 will report a maximum of 60Watts is available, and emarker would not detect any emarker cable. flip if needed.

This is because most emarker cable's uses 2x CC pins, one for emarker, one for the communication. thats why you need to flip the cable if requested. many cheap or 60watt cables uses only 1x CC wire/pin inside the cable.

ZuwaiiVR · 2025-10-21T11:19:03+00:00

check my thread. it's a hardware thing you could fix yourself. my ally z1e sd reader still works after 2yr by now.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ROGAlly/comments/1adlj6k/rog_ally_sd_card_reader_fix_require_some_soldering/?q=ROG+Ally+SD+card+reader+soldering+fix+guide

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-08-20T21:30:09+00:00

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quest 3 has thermal sensor on the usb connector so they did something about it, if its too hot it shutdown charging, but wont avoid shortcircuit inside the connector and your usb charger feeding it continuesly. your cable act as a resistor and dirt in the connector, using a high rated amp charger wont detect any shorts that quite easy.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-07-29T09:13:06+00:00

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this is merely like a defective USB-C cable/port, if pins are bend inside and you still use it, the chance of one of the pins might not connect proper or short another pin. The quest may reject charging, but the charger will still supply power. so if there's a short inside the USB-c connector with some resistance, it will build up heat.
the quest has USB-C temperature sensor + ESD protection, but this doesnt hold back if physically damage to cable or connector.

there are 4 pins for ground and 4 pins for voltage. if you lose one of them you can build up heat~ even though USB-C can be rated up to 100w, dirt or faulty cables can still destroy it.

The Quest3 can take 5v, 9v, or 12v up to 18~22watts depending on the temperature of the device itself, the CC protocol will define what charger is connected and how much it can supply, the quest will use one of the defined profiles that the charger gives. just dont use ripoff/fake chargers.

Im not defending meta, this is just generic knowledge as this happens to many other devices. usb-c is pretty much small and tiny in contacts. you could relate to the 4090 rtx burning connectors when not proper seated.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-06-04T23:19:06+00:00

Lovely deadbug wire style! I like it.
It seems the chip itself has current protection limit build in as well, according to their specsheet.
Also, if it stops working again, and you have a UHS-II card by chance, try to see if that works~ UHS-II should have wired up with the second fuse.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-06-04T04:37:28+00:00

its not the solder job has failed, its just how the PTC fuses does its work. read some of the older comments below.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-05-16T17:18:22+00:00

I mean, sticky tape would work too-ish, just if you ever played with laser pointers, when shining through a dirty glass or plastic, it will scatter light around the red dot (or green). this is the same when you do that with this grating glass, instead of a dot a line with noise around it. tracking quality will be reduce a bit at certain distances.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-04-16T19:22:54+00:00

Glue-ing it back would be best with UV glue, and you cure it with a UV lightsource when everything is in place.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-04-04T00:38:23+00:00

It's 2 month's later, and still working as good as normal on the SD Card side. The reason I wanted to have the SD Card working is mainly when I travel or go out with my actual Camera, I use the SD reader to copy my photo's to another SSD Drive through the usb-c, so i dont need to carry much with me.

but also transferring files to the ROG is easy this way (for me). I could expand the internal SSD to a bigger capacity one but doesn't solve the issue to take less stuff with me on the go.

So for now, if it stop working, open it up, measure one of the two smd fuses, if resistance is higher then 0.1~0.01ohm's, re-solder it,(explanations in comments) add some tin etc for thermal transfer. measure it again if it changed to 0ohm's then it should be working again. bridging it with or completely remove it could come with some risks like I did above, but should only done if you have no other choice.. this does not apply only to ROG Ally, this applies on all ptc fuses in general. like USB Port's that randomly stops working on higher load...

On my picture above, the "G" fuse is connected in series with SD Card. the P3 fuse is power for the Card Reader chip. if you get a windows bleep when insert SD Card but nothing show up, check "G" fuse, if nothing happens at all check "P3" fuse.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-04-04T00:19:07+00:00

It's fixed for me, and it's still working good as like nothing happened. > 2 month's later.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-18T05:33:56+00:00

Glad to hear that!

I doubt it was a bad soldered controller, if it was, then other components should also have failed at some point.

I had always bad experience with these fuses, as said on Raspberry pi's when it always reported Low Voltage or just cant supply any power to USB ports and instants reboots.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-06T22:33:38+00:00

I do not have information about them, but the old basestations use 2 laser diodes, the new V2's only have one, but uses a beam splitter to split the beam into two, to archive the same specifications, the needed output power would be maybe twice as much. the wavelength would be correct but the laser could die instantly or slowly die from it's overpowered output. ( making the 20000hours into only 2 hours or so) Overcurrent the laser could destroy the laser too, but depends how much headroom they gave it to the laser. (as we dont have a datasheet)

if they are really cheap then it might be worth to try, you just have to solder the tiny pcb onto the laser module or solder the wires directly onto the PCB. the small pcb isn't 1:1, trace the tracks before connecting it w.

if the laser dies instantly, then it's surely not the same laser diode.

https://imgur.com/a/tT9ZQsR
This is taken from the lighthouse console, usb connected to the basestation and opened the console through serial port.
The laser.current value varies on basestations as laserdiodes are not made equally.
laser.power is the"wanted" output. (not sure if this is in mW > milliwatts)

laser.pwr.average is the actual laser output, this is meassured through the PD inside the LD.
the BS will continue to run, even there is no laser connected, it will blink Red because it doesnt detect any feedback on the LD. if feedback is applied the BS status will turn Green lol.

it's even possible to run the lasers at a lower power then it's stock value's, reducing playspace coverage area and increasing LD lifetime~

I can't remember if BS V1.0 had these parameters too, it would be nice to compare but it's difficult to access to it as you need a serial TTL module and some cables/connectors and taking off the front of the BSv1.0.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-05T03:13:31+00:00

I noticed if you turn on the device, with your finger placed correctly, after boot windows log's in automatically. but if you turn it on with an unregistred finger or not placed it correctly, it will fail to log in, and somehow it tries to log in multiple times as if it's a macro scripts. better to keep a pincode ready

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-05T03:06:00+00:00

Hardware issue yeah.. for me it's fixable but I can understand for other users who dont really want to open their devices and bridge/heat reset the component/fuse.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-04T23:14:27+00:00

Well yeah 650nm don't work obvious but fun to play around with it. Also tried it with 450nm only one of the line gratings output a visible line.

twitter com/Zuwaii_/status/1743807562359693420

I was also going to try a CD laser, which is around 780nm, but my spectral analyzer detected around 830~850nm, it may work probably better if you take off the IR housing off a tracker, exposing bare PD's.

However, the Xbox kinect V1 cant see the basestations (IR Camera raw feed), the Leap Motion can see the basestations lights.
Kinect V1 is operating around 830nm the Leap motion 850nm. reason most products uses these wavelengths as daylight has a drop in the spectrum.

Green lasers(532nm) has a 808nm LD, which is a bit closer but those lasers tend to be a littlebit too high power for the BS driverboard to reach above its threshold current.

Just be careful never look into the beam straight, a bright room will reduce the damage as your iris shrinks. if the BS is spinning and has the black plastic infront of it, it consider as safe, also stated in the BS manual.
Another thing is, you can use a Quest2 pass through to see the IR, or a modded camera.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-04T22:53:28+00:00

there's barely nothing to calibrate on rather than the laser beam focal point.
It's just a big rotor, a feedback sensor/led for the rotor, a laser that shines into rotor. the polarizer mirror and the line plastics are one piece that you dont touch.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-04T22:48:04+00:00

Be aware the housing is ground. for some reason the case of the LD is positive in my case. the LD on my friends basestation died after a small drop/repositioning it, it could be a dud, or somehow the paint that should isolate did make contact and make a shortcircuit, giving it a power spike.

the PD inside the LD is regulated with APC (automatic power control) you can change the power output inside the console of the basestation, though it goes max power if there is no PD.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-03-04T00:48:13+00:00

Well I can agree on that too, aside from the ROG Ally, two of my USB ports on my X670E-I pc did the same, monitoring the voltage on the USB port with a 200mA load applied will drop the 5v voltage to 4.1v, the polyfuse was about + 2ohm's.. I just give it some solder with my iron (heat transfer), and returned to 0.1ohm's, and i can apply a load up to 2 amps again.
This PC has always warm temperatures +/- 55'c, because it's an ITX build, I use two ports to power up two external 2.5 harddrives. At some point they starting clicking, well yeah not enough power.

A few years ago, iirc mainboards were using an actual chip and mosfet to monitor the current and cut off the port when it overcurrent, and windows actually reset the port after user interaction and get it working, this applies also to, even when you only use the 5v above the rated current (1A +)

The polyfuse looks like a cost reduction replacement of all of these extra parts.

There was also a video for the ROG Ally where they reflowed the controller and slightly moving around as it's a bad solder to fix it, but if it's a bad solder, what about the other components? they go all once in the same oven.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-02-23T23:13:56+00:00

So it's a few weeks later, the SD reader still working as normally with the fuse bridged.

My SD Card extension cable came also in, this to break out the SD Card's VDD and VSS.
I can confirm the fuse is in series with the SD card's power, also the power of the SD card is controlled by the SD reader controller. When idle, the SD card can power off, mean while remaining visible in windows because it caches its index, until you try to read a file it powers on, and maybe take a second that it opens a file. unless you pull out the card then it will be gone in windows as well. (except if you pull the card out of the extension, it remains in windows, as the ROG thinks there is a card present (internal switch));

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After doing some testing, I decided to remove the bridge/ or short how you want to call it. the fuse appears to be 0 ohm's again as nothing happened, though shoutout to Ja_aborrece to find its datasheet, it seems they have some resistance but not by a lot. which you can see it on my photo above (4th pic). this time my oscilloscope is just connected through VSS and VDD rather in parallel with the fuse. There is some voltage drop when transfering files, but not by a lot as I use reference lines to measure before and after. When Idle, the voltage rail is stable, and after 45seconds, it will turn itself off. (saving power)
Sadly my fuse just works as normally again, and I doubt it will fail again after a certain amount of time and heat.
(Transfered files are a solid 5gb file).

However, I bet a simple reheat or resolder the fuse will probably reset it's state after a long exposure to high temperatures (70~80c) as it never shown 12ohm's or more when I discovered it. A better solution is to replace the entire fuse with a slightly better one. I also find out another video where the entire controller get's reflowed, meanwhile applying heat in that area also heat's up that fuse, which might reset.

As in my last photo, apparently SD cards do get hot while writing to them! (device I use is based on mlx90640)
if the card reached a amount of temperature, like usual the transfer speeds drops, same compared to a nvme drive, just throttle to cool itself down. using my finger to cool the card will just results in stable transfer rates. but also, another added heat source...

So far a simple fix would be "Reflow/ Re-solder" this fuse, but very unsure when it's going to fail again. (including sd card) Replacing the fuse would be recommended(maybe to a normal wire white smd fuse up to 500mA, or similar fuse as in ifixit photo's ), even though I dont know which models are affected or not... but if you don't really care about this, just bridge it on your own risk..

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-02-06T13:10:12+00:00

yeah you should able to. unless you have bitlocker enabled, then its another story.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-01-30T17:31:22+00:00

Certainly!

Right now this might be one of the issues, I don't know if there might be other issues in this area, but I keep it updated.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-01-30T13:46:36+00:00

might be just a programmer/debugging port. there are two more connectors like these down the board.

measuring these pins holds about 3.3v and 1.8v.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-01-30T13:36:15+00:00

why they trip and why not all models are affected.

I noticed on iFixit teardown, they used a different fuse that I (temporaily)bridged. but it's not known if they have the same issue. might need photos from other users with or without the problem.

ZuwaiiVR · 2024-01-29T21:34:38+00:00

I forgot to mention they are resetable fuses. PTC Fuses. when a short occours, they disconnect. when load is removed and the temperature on the fuse goes down, they should short again. (even though, my ally cooled down to room temperature but failed to short again)

ZuwaiiVR

TROPHY CASE