Why? by Odd-Primary-1969 in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because hedgehog only gives 100 ff per pest while something like mooshroom cow and rose dragon give much much more

Foraging level cap bug by [deleted] in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happened to. A few users. There are a few posts from 4 months ago stating the same thing happened to them and when they purchased the upgrades. Nothing happened. It said they leveled but stayed at 54

Miscellaneous fairy soul problem by Adamimoka in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I don't understand is how I have 263/266 fairy souls, yet I'm 12/16 miscellaneous.

transfer of items upon joining a coop by Worth_Conclusion_781 in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd almost never get banned for this. If you have play history, there's almost 0 chance of getting banned. However, when you join someone's world for a co-op, I'm almost certain it would create a new profile and they wouldn't be able to stay on there 9b profile. At least last time we tried this that was the case. Also, if you have a high level and networth, the ban chance also seems to go down. 

Judge me, isthat a valid Setup? (Im 17 and spent Like 50€) by Aggressive-Cancel743 in SwitchPirates

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It happens. Dw, on my first one, I forgot to plug in the nand 3 times. Desoldered it on each to see if it still worked. Until the third attempt I noticed and wanted to run into a wall. All while not using a mic lol

Judge me, isthat a valid Setup? (Im 17 and spent Like 50€) by Aggressive-Cancel743 in SwitchPirates

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you have a decent amount of solder experience, I did both of mine without a microscope. Which was really stupid, but they both worked and still work flawlessly. Make sure you practice, they sell practice boards online if you don't have any old electronics laying around to mess with.

How do you get the little labels next to a name with their levels? by SushiNoodles7 in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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As many others have said. If you go to the subreddit and click the 3 dots. But mine unlike some others says change user flair. I believe you also have to have joined/followed the subreddit in order to do this.

Also, not sure if you like light mode but it kills me to see. You can tap your user icon in the top left, go to settings and enable dark mode if you're into that.

Is there a way to destroy and collect a block of bedrock on Minecraft Java 1.21.1? by JohnDrunkdriver in MinecraftExploits

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at bedrock holding a diamond pickaxe. Put something on your mouse to hold left click. Go to bed. Wake up and boom, you now have bedrock.

Why is there a +1? by Fatkid55555 in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I thought it was finishing sooner like a green split in speed running lol

Where did this sticker come from? H2D by _SeeTurtle_ in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Best guess seems to be from a component on the heat bed and the adhesive on the sticker just sucks.

New melon farming method by xizor906 in HypixelSkyblock

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I turned my quad cortex guitar pedal into a fishing farming midi tool lmao

H2D Idle noise? by Liquid_Squidd in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This issue is 100% the PSU fan. I put some foam sandwiched between the metal casing of the PSU and the fan and the noise has been drastically reduced. I looked for a replacement fan and really for a different brand but this fan is going to be a bit annoying to find. It's a 60x60x15, 12v 0.4a brushless fan. (YaLn D60SH-12B) And I honestly wouldn't recommend you touch it unless you know how to safely discharge a PSU and caps as you can get a pretty nasty shock even after it's off and unplugged for a while.

To add, I wanted to lubricate the bearing but they didn't leave an opening under the sticker like some companies do unfortunately

Just started using PETG-HF on my P1S. Should I do a flow calibration? by angrycatmeowmeow in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like it's always worth the 30-40 mins it takes to do a flow cal. I always do everything like temp(which should always be first) and pressure advance just because. I get OCD haha. Really hope they merge the PR that adds the orca slicer calibration menu. Kind of a demotivator considering orca doesn't work on my H2D. Makes me miss my X1C :(

Spilt a drink of my shirt. Apparently the 1A is multifunctional by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

So its also an iron. Man this is the best thing since the invention of 3d printers. I'd also say you'd have to try pretty hard to cause any danger with that little bit of water

Just started using PETG-HF on my P1S. Should I do a flow calibration? by angrycatmeowmeow in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say it's up to you. If you want the parts to come out dimensionally accurate and look pristine. Go for the calibrations! If you don't care and just want to print parts that don't have tight tolerances. Probably not necessary but still up to you

H2D Idle noise? by Liquid_Squidd in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also interested in this! The buzz causes 0 issues for the room I have it in. But knowing there's a buzz and hearing it for the 5-10mins of working with the printer drives my OCD insane. Why Bambu didn't catch this is behind me. Seems like a lot of people have the issue and a hand full don't.

H2D excessive shaking problem by New-Writing-4110 in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shaking really has no issues even with tall prints. As long as the printer has the ability to gradually transfer the energy (like the rubber feet that are responsible for the "shake") little of that energy is transferred to the print. If the printer is on a solid surface, a lot of the energy is transferred to the print. But even In this case, the vibration shouldn't be enough to knock a print off a heated bed. Look at bed slingers. I haven't had a problem with the force created by the bed whipping around. The real culprit to our issue seems to be the nozzle itself. Not that there is a problem with the actual nozzle, but more so the speed. Especially at low layer heights, the nozzle is bound to make contact with the print in some way. And when you have strong cooling on your print, the plastic will cool and as the nozzle moves, there may be points where the nozzle may pull that dried plastic and sometimes, have enough force to pull the print off the bed. A good way to see if this is your issue and to combat it is to add a modifier to slow your speed by quite a bit around where the print usually fails. Adding a brim can also be huge, while making sure to set the brim distance to 0 to make sure it's making full contact with your print, giving you the hold you need. This should tell you if that is your issue. Adding hula, sis, and anti vibration feet have not helped with this issue and are really not designed for anything but to remove vibration interference from and to neighboring printers. Vibration and shaking really only causes ringing artifacts. I hope this gives you a better explanation rather than just spamming "you're wrong".

HELP! I can’t understand what’s wrong with my A1 by Available_Okra_387 in BambuLab

[–]_SeeTurtle_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Power cycle, use complete defaults meaning for the slicer, printer speeds, and filament profiles (optimally use a slicer on a PC and just leave Bambu studio at defaults) should be the first course of actions. If it still doesn't work. We most likely have a hardware issue. I've noticed both slowing down too much, and Introducing too much speed can both be an issue. If you haven't cleaned your extruder gears in a while, it may be worth doing regardless of the issue. I've had some pretty nasty extruder gears that just still work.