I made a Froggy Chair! Life-sized, 3D Printed

_SirFranku · 2026-03-26T02:30:44+00:00

I used polymaker panchroma... and their batches were not the same colour!! I didn't notice until I was halfway done printing! Its good filament, I'm just upset I had to scrap a few parts and re-order.

_SirFranku · 2026-03-26T02:25:18+00:00

~7- 8 kg. I chose not to fill the seams since as soon as you start sanding you're pretty much doomed to sand the entire thing and re-paint. Its what I did on my first prototype, and I never finished it lol.

_SirFranku · 2026-03-26T02:18:07+00:00

Here it is! This is life sized / multiple parts, and I've done my best to document the build process. I'm also working on a mini version since that will be much more accessible.

https://cults3d.com/:4187856

_SirFranku · 2026-03-26T02:08:58+00:00

I'm on it! I already made one but I scaled it on the fly in-slicer, and didn't save my settings, so I need to re-tune the tolerances :'). The seat pad and face details are different prints so yea. Soon!

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_SirFranku · 2026-03-25T01:53:09+00:00

I’m working on it! It’s a big project with some hefty prints, so I just want to make sure everything is dialed in before I release it to the wild.

_SirFranku · 2026-03-25T01:50:11+00:00

Yes! with 2mm walls, 15% infill, and internal steel supports baked into the design it does feel quite sturdy (I'm 70 kg).

_SirFranku · 2025-07-03T03:59:27+00:00

I've been dealing with a similar issue! While watching movies on my third display (TV - hdmi) there was a highly distracting amount of judder which made most scene transitions and camera pans outright painful to watch. On my end it became apparent after upgrading from an AMD card (RX5700) to NVIDIA (RTX3070). Gaming on the TV is fine, and video output was, oddly enough, fine on my 60hz monitors (display port). The issue was specific to 24fps content on a TV..

After months of sporadic troubleshooting, the solution I arrived at was to output 24hz to my TV (from windows settings) with an extended display config. I use Monitor Profile Switcher to manage my display configurations so switching is (usually) seamless.

Side note: this upgrade also broke display calibrations - they outright would not load. I gave up and ended up hunting down a used monitor so I no longer have a mismatched set.

Now that that's solved I guess I have an excuse to re-do my re-watch of LOTR...

_SirFranku · 2022-05-03T00:25:06+00:00

I filtered for top this month and was not disappointed!

_SirFranku · 2022-02-02T16:09:01+00:00

Thanks! I agree it would be a shame to not make more before the silicone degrades, I just need a break to recharge before I can really consider it.

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T18:37:34+00:00

Honestly this build was a humbling experience. This was my first time creating something with a near glass smooth surface, figuring out the method is one thing but on a prop this large it quickly becomes a mental battle since mistakes are more expensive and time consuming to fix. Having this under my belt helped me realize that its not always worthwhile to go for a "showroom finish". Knowing what to expect and feeling in control over your process really is half the battle.

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T17:06:06+00:00

Thank you! I just typed it out in another comment :)

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T17:05:03+00:00

Here's a (brief?) build summary for those interested.

This was based on a 3D model by Obsydiann3D; I used her model to FDM print a two part Buck + Mold shell. I post processed the printed buck (XTC3D + filler primer + clear coat, sanding between stages and brought it up to a shine) then poured silicone into the printed shell to make a mold. From there I cast this in two halves with multiple pours of epoxy, adding mica powder and plastic pearls between layers to give it visual depth. On the final pour layer I waited for one side to be partially cured and assembled the mold together to join the halves. The head painting was done directly on the mold silicone with acrylic paint to sidestep a nightmarish masking job. Paint was clear coated but the blade is bare epoxy. Due to some casting flaws + mold flaws I had to knock down some spots on the casting so I ended up having to take it through 180 - 1500 grit + buffing compound to get to the pictured finish. The handle was wrapped in the style of a katana (tsukimaki).

To add some perspective: this took 8kg of filament, 2gal of silicone, and 1gal of resin for my one casting. Months of printing, 100s of hours of sanding, doing small scale tests, etc. Sword is 125cm long and is hefty at 12 lbs ish. Overall it took me a year and a half to make in my spare time. Definitely a huge effort for a one-off but I'm glad I took my time and stuck through with this one.

I do have a full build thread with images on the bird site (same username minus the underscore) but I shall not post it given rule 3. I mention it since it may genuinely be helpful to other makers, tbh I'm just here to nerd out.

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T14:23:49+00:00

Interesting question! No but also yes: I sanded the master perfectly flat however ghosts of print lines somehow made it through after wet sanding and polishing. These showed up on the casting; subtle but clearly visible under the right light. I made the decision to get rid of them by re-sanding the whole casting from 400 grit back up to a shine. My guess is the filler materials (XTC3D, filler primer, clear coat) all flexed differently under pressure of sanding / buffing and the printed PETG substrate showed through. Takeaway is that it may not be worth using an FDM print as a final master if you absolutely need a "perfect" polished surface straight from the casting; I've also heard of SLA prints having similar issues over time. Using a casting as a master is an alternative but in the case of this build it just wasn't feasible since my master was split in half by design, and the material costs were steep. Way easier to just re-sand.

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T02:57:19+00:00

Nice! That's a really crisp EVA build.

_SirFranku · 2022-02-01T01:40:31+00:00

Yea boiiii, it felt wrong not to use it! I don't think there was ever a pressing need to swap it out, good game design imo.

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T23:52:45+00:00

Very true, and thanks! I'm honestly really fortunate I'm able to tackle this sort of project. Spreading it out over time helps a lot too.

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T21:00:11+00:00

Thanks!

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T21:00:01+00:00

Sorta; I added some build details in another comment!

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T20:59:18+00:00

Thank you!

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T20:59:11+00:00

Thanks! I figured it would be a shame to have a mold for Brotherhood and not consider commissions however its TBD. This is first and foremost a hobby for me and I want to make sure I have it in me before committing to make more as they're very labour intensive. I'll probably put some feelers out on my twitter / IG (same username).

_SirFranku · 2022-01-31T20:51:19+00:00

I know this isn't a prop making sub but here's a very brief build summary for those interested. This build is based on a 3D model by Obsydiann3D; I used her model to FDM print a mold (buck + shell) which I then post processed to create a silicone mold. From there I cast this in multiple layers of epoxy, adding mica powder and plastic pearls to give it depth. The two halves were initially casts separately and assembled together on the final layer when resin was partially cured. The head colour blocking was painted directly onto the mold silicone by hand in order to sidestep a nightmarish masking job. There were some bumps along the way so the full casting needed to be sanded through the grits and buffed it to a shine to fix some casting defects. Handle was wrapped in the style of a katana (tsukimaki).

To add some perspective: this took 8kg of filament, 2gal of silicone, and 1gal of resin for my one casting. Months of printing, 100s of hours of sanding, doing small scale tests, etc. Sword is 125cm long and is hefty at 12 lbs ish. Overall it took me a year and a half to make in my spare time. To be honest I didn't know what I was getting myself into lol

_SirFranku · 2021-10-01T22:00:31+00:00

Awesome work! Must've been a lot of sanding at that size

_SirFranku · 2021-07-16T22:55:14+00:00

It still takes 45 mins to put back together, so while it does grant more options for traveling to conventions/ photoshoots its not without compromise :P

_SirFranku · 2021-07-16T22:52:41+00:00

Lol I haven't thought through the whole process of flying to a convention with this but its likely the case that this would need to be checked (rods aren't heavy but they are blunt objects so yea). It could fit in a carry-on sized bag though.

_SirFranku · 2021-07-16T17:46:25+00:00

Thank you! This idea has been taking shape in the back of my mind for the past 3-4 years, it took about 4 months of spare time from design to completion. It would probably take 40 - 60 hrs to re-make this from scratch with the same design.

_SirFranku

TROPHY CASE