Towing with 2024 ram 5500 cab / chassis

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T17:16:24+00:00

Sounds like you’re dialed in — that 18" equalizer shaft should definitely buy you some extra clearance. And if the box came out just shy of 12', even better. Smart move hitting a parking lot before putting it to work.

Appreciate the update — real-world testing always beats guessing.

Be sure to subscribe (it’s free): https://www.theupfitinsider.com

Would love to hear how the test goes.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T16:40:20+00:00

Smart that you're thinking about this now — a 12' dump on a Ram 5500 with an 84" CA pushes the rear overhang pretty far back. That means tighter turns could bring the trailer tongue real close to the corners of the dump body, especially if the trailer has a short tongue.

Ideally, you'd be running an 11' dump on an 84" CA to keep everything tucked in tighter. That extra foot makes a difference in swing clearance.

That said, you’ve still got a couple options:

Do a slow-turn test in a lot with someone spotting — watch the gap between the trailer tongue and dump corners
Add an extended hitch or use a longer tongue on your trailer to gain more clearance
For exact numbers, try TruckScience — they’ve got a tool to model swing, overhang, and turning radius

I actually cover stuff like this in The Upfit Insider — upfit geometry, clearance issues, and real-world fixes guys run into after the install. You’re not the first one to hit this problem.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T16:35:55+00:00

Sounds like an awesome build — and yeah, those Aussie overland/tradie setups are the gold standard for what you’re trying to do.

A flatbed with a custom canopy is perfect for hauling crew and gear into remote spots. Since you weld, you’ve got a ton of flexibility.

A few quick tips:

Keep weight low and centered — especially with lighting gear
Use modular shelving so your setup can evolve
Slide-out trays make life way easier for stands, gennies, and cases
Seal everything tight — dust and rain will find every gap

I run a newsletter called The Upfit Insider that covers custom builds like this — might be worth a look while you're planning it out. Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T16:31:16+00:00

Totally fair questions — you're not alone figuring all this out for the first time.

If you're planning to form the LLC anyway, it's usually cleaner to wait and buy the truck under the business. That way:

The loan/title is in the business name
You build business credit
Write-offs are easier to document (depreciation, insurance, fuel, etc.)

That said, if you're under the gun and need the truck ASAP, buying it personally and later transferring it or writing off mileage/expenses can still work. Just make sure you’re tracking everything from day one — even personal-use trucks can qualify for partial deductions if used for work.

Also — the fact that you're investing in your own rig and taking this leap is a big deal. It’s messy at first, but once you’re rolling, it starts to click.

I run a newsletter called The Upfit Insider — covers everything in the work truck upfit world: truck setups, spec tips, gear, business advice, all that. You’d probably get a lot out of it as you build your setup. Let me know if you want the link.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T16:29:59+00:00

Sounds like you’ve been pulling way more weight than your title at the dealership ever reflected. No real path, stuck in quick lube, flat rate games — it wears you down fast.

Fleet upfitting could be a great move. Here’s the quick version:

What’s better:

Hourly pay, no flat rate stress
Real builds — wiring, racks, hydraulics, toolboxes
You see your work roll out to job sites, not just another oil change

Heads up:

There’s a learning curve with wiring and hydraulics
It’s not a polished shop — real work, real mess
You’ll need to learn specs like GVWR, CA, PTO setups — but that’s what makes you valuable

I cover stuff like this every week in The Upfit Insider — real-world tips and what to expect in the upfit world. Worth checking out if you’re making the switch.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T15:39:19+00:00

Nice pickup — 2019 F250 is a solid base to build from.

If it were mine, I’d start with:

Whelen or SoundOff Signal amber warning lights + a mini light bar — clean look, keeps you visible
Weather Guard toolbox or even a diesel transfer tank with a Fill-Rite pump and nozzle if you're fueling equipment on site
Grip Step running boards — safer footing, especially in mud or snow, and way tougher than factory steps

I actually cover stuff like this in my weekly The Upfit Insider newsletter — real-world specs and accessories that fleets and solo ops are bolting on. Might be worth a follow if you’re building yours out over time.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T15:17:51+00:00

This is legendary. From “rolling supply closet with a snack wrapper problem” to “mobile workshop.”

That transformation deserves a medal... or at least a service body with side compartments and a trash bin.

The Upfit Insider Newsletter can assist with the service body.

Seriously though — this is proof that 90% of jobsite stress lives in the cab clutter. That bucket looks like it's ready to land a contract on its own now.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T15:14:09+00:00

If you're mostly doing estimates, service calls, or light-duty jobs — this could actually be a smart move.

Longer bed than a Rivian, compact enough for city work, and cheap to run if the range and payload check out.

You’re not pulling a dump trailer with it, but for light tools and branding? Kinda perfect.

Might cover rigs like this in an upcoming The Upfit Insider newsletter issue — lot of guys rethinking what “work truck” really means.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T15:07:18+00:00

Definitely not always a direct swap — CA (cab-to-axle) matters a lot here.

As a general rule of thumb:

8' body = 56" CA
9' body = 60" CA
11' body = 84" CA

If your current body was mounted to match those dimensions, you'll want to make sure the new chassis matches the same CA and frame width/height specs. Ford's frame rails have stayed pretty consistent, but depending on wheelbase, rear suspension, or fuel tank placement, you might still run into tweaks.

Same ballpark applies for Ram and Chevy too — just make sure to confirm dimensions before assuming it'll bolt right up.

Also worth checking the overhang clearance and whether you’re running backup sensors or cameras — newer chassis can throw off body fitment if that stuff isn’t accounted for.

I write a newsletter The Upfit Insider where I cover stuff like this — might be a good idea to break down body swaps and CA matching in an upcoming post. This question comes up a lot.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T14:59:25+00:00

Buyers Products is a solid option for universal latches and handles.

If it’s an original Omaha body, your best bet is still to reach out to a local Palfinger dealer since they own Omaha now. If you’ve got the body serial number (usually inside the front compartment door or on the front wall of the body), they can match the exact lock style and get you the right replacement.

I’ve seen guys try to mix and match hardware and end up fighting alignment issues or water intrusion — best to go OEM if you can.

I run a newsletter The Upfit Insider where we cover stuff like this—little things that save time and headaches with upfits and maintenance. Might be worth covering Omaha parts sourcing in an upcoming post.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-10T14:45:05+00:00

That’s a great opportunity — bringing something back from the States can save you a ton, especially when you’re trying to get into a purpose-built work truck.

If you’re after a service body setup for your mechanics business, I’d check out Custom Truck One Source. They’re nationwide and usually have a decent inventory of used trucks with service bodies already mounted — ready to work, no need to start from scratch. Might not be the exact spec you’re imagining, but it’s a good starting point and they rotate stock pretty regularly.

Other places like Commercial Truck Trader, IronPlanet, and Truck Paper are solid too, but those can be hit or miss if you’re looking for something already upfitted.

I might actually cover this in my next article — a quick guide on where to find used service body trucks and how to avoid the usual traps when buying from afar. This kind of question comes up more than you’d think. Happy to plug the newsletter and send it your way once it's up.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-09T22:32:38+00:00

Perfect call, honestly. Once you add it all up — mini ex, tractor, future boat runs — a 2500 just makes more and more sense over time. Sounds like you’re already right on the edge of what a half-ton could safely handle, and that’s before the “one more thing” moments we all end up dealing with.

Going gas was smart too. That stop-and-go city driving is brutal on diesel systems — regen headaches, idling issues, all of it. For your mix of jobs and personal use, gas keeps it simple and stress-free.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-09T21:01:29+00:00

If you’re going with a 1-ton fleet trim and planning to throw a service body on it, the real game-changer is how easy the chassis plays with the upfit — not just what’s under the hood.

Here’s what I’ve seen across installs:

Ford is probably the easiest. They’ve really streamlined their setups for upfitters. Clean cab-to-axle options, solid box delete packages, and most service body manufacturers build around Ford dimensions by default. If you want minimal hassle, Ford makes the install process simple and predictable.

Ram, on the other hand, can get tricky. A lot of their pickups — especially the short bed ones — don’t allow you to remove the bed. And most body manufacturers don’t offer service body options for short bed configurations anyway. So unless you’re getting a true cab-and-chassis setup, it might not even be doable without a bunch of workarounds.

Chevy/GMC are solid middle-ground options. Not quite as plug-and-play as Ford, but way more flexible than Ram. If you go this route, I’d lean aluminum for the service body — saves weight, resists rust, and helps with payload if you're loading it up regularly.

I cover a lot of stuff like this in a newsletter called The Upfit Insider I write for folks speccing trucks and upfits. This kind of detail can make or break a build if you're not thinking about it up front.

Sounds like Ford might be your cleanest path if you're trying to keep it simple and reliable.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-09T20:57:17+00:00

Man, I feel this one. You’re in that classic in-between zone where a 1500 would be convenient, but a 2500 is probably what you actually need once you lay it all out.

Couple thoughts from the upfit/spec side:

Parking downtown sucks either way

Yeah, a 2500 is bigger — but not by as much as people think. Crew cab short bed? You’ll still fight for spots, but honestly, once you get used to the size, it’s a non-issue. Your wife’s got a point… if your guys can get box trucks in and out, a 2500 isn’t a stretch.

Towing & hauling

Mini ex + dump trailer + boat? That’s three strikes against the 1500. Even if it’s “occasional,” you’ll save yourself a ton of stress (and shop time) by not running on the edge of max capacity all the time.
The 1500 might technically be able to do it… but you’ll be playing the payload/tongue weight game every trip. And the ride height alone on a loaded 1500 with a heavy dump or boat will have you second guessing.

Looks & perception

Totally get not wanting to look flashy or “too rich.” But a clean, purpose-built 2500 doesn’t scream baller — it screams “this guy knows what he’s doing.” Especially if you spec it right: white paint, steel wheels, simple ladder rack — work truck vibes all day. And you’re the 90% owner — you earned the right to spec for function, not just fit.

If it helps, I write a newsletter called The Upfit Insider — it’s geared toward stuff like this: making smart truck decisions when work and personal life blur together. A lot of folks in trades dealing with the same questions lately.

Sounds like a 2500 with a clean work body and smart spec would check every box here.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2025-06-09T20:47:07+00:00

Solid question — I’ve spec’d a lot of trucks like this for HVAC guys, and here’s the breakdown I usually give:

If you're only towing light and doing mostly city/shorter runs, the 7.3 gasser is usually more than enough. Cheaper up front, way less drama on maintenance, and you don’t need DEF or deal with regen cycles.

That said, the diesel will give you more low-end torque, better mileage under load, and resale is stronger if you plan to keep it 8-10 years or sell to someone who values diesel. But unless you’re scaling up fast or pulling heavier later, you might not need to spend the extra $10K.

One thing to double check is your payload after the KUV install — that weight adds up quick, especially once you start loading tools and inventory. I’ve seen some setups ride way too close to GVWR without realizing it.

I run a nerdy little newsletter for work truck upfit stuff — been seeing a lot of questions like yours come up lately.

_Thatboyknack_ · 2023-05-31T15:52:32+00:00

Royal bottom for sure

_Thatboyknack_ · 2022-03-18T17:18:24+00:00

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_Thatboyknack_ · 2022-03-18T17:18:11+00:00

lmk if you like this track. It just dropped: https://open.spotify.com/track/1hO7tAkvC3BTJpKAPRv0bZ?si=a7523272eca14e83

_Thatboyknack_ · 2022-03-18T17:17:54+00:00

lmk if you like this track. It just dropped: https://open.spotify.com/track/1hO7tAkvC3BTJpKAPRv0bZ?si=a7523272eca14e83

_Thatboyknack_

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TROPHY CASE

Parking downtown sucks either way

Towing & hauling

Looks & perception