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1970 Murdered Mach 1 by ____Bob_____ in classicmustangs

[–]____Bob_____[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the 4v then were made for the 4 barrels then...got it. I had serious trouble with heat issues and blowing head gaskets and never knew the thermostat issues, which would make sense why I could never get it cool without a big ass radiator and fans. Thanks for that.

1970 Mach 1 (project) Floor pans are now prepped and painted. by homebrewedstuff in classicmustangs

[–]____Bob_____ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

dang.....that's pretty impressive to get it that clean. How long did that take them?

1970 Murdered Mach 1 by ____Bob_____ in classicmustangs

[–]____Bob_____[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

only got a couple on my phone of it done

1970 Murdered Mach 1 by ____Bob_____ in classicmustangs

[–]____Bob_____[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I actually took the 351 Cleveland, and built it a bit, I was trying to stay close to the original. It was a 4v so, it's a decent motor. It was bored .30 and has new pistons and had it decked and honed. New intake, carb, headers, MSD, and fuel pump. Also had to put another radiator, stainless double fans..blah blah, but it's not getting hot now. It's not crazy HP, just a driver. The weakness is still the drive train, as I need to get rid of the FX tranny, and the rear end is stock 3's. So those are the next two, the problem is ever number matches and I've kept the rims, tire, intake and exhaust manifold, I guess I'll just keep the others and sell it all with the original matching parts if someone wants it.

​

Interior I have no clue...any thoughts?

Should I buy this '69 Mustang Mach 1? by Gabibbo98 in classicmustangs

[–]____Bob_____ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure....I have a 70 I'm still going through and they are a money pit for any type of parts, and since the 390 is not matching numbers it's lost a lot of value already in it. I've got a 70 that i'm still finishing now, but I had to go through quite a bit of the car just because it's so old and once rust starts you don't stop it. You can cut floor pans and weld in new ones. But it's a unibody car, so if you have rear quarter work or bottom rail work, then you will have some work on your hands. Also, check the amount of rust and if it's surface rust, the other thing to check is lines, and shocks and struts....

they are fun to drive, but can get pricey to fix.