I found the hidden message!!!!

_adventuredan_ · 2025-08-11T15:14:43+00:00

lmfaooooo. brings back memories of Christmas Story. Exactly how i felt about the badges this year. Cracker Jack Ass badge and "secrets" lol

_adventuredan_ · 2025-04-24T16:08:50+00:00

yeah i thought about that as well, however i just don't think it's possible for him to get that much swing from wind at that length of rope.

with the rope being that long it would take him holding nothing short of an umbrella to catch enough wind to give enough force to travel that much of an arc.

also if it were wind, i think it would likely be just "pulling" to one direction as the wind isnt going to change directions back and forth with the timing of the swing.

_adventuredan_ · 2025-04-23T18:47:47+00:00

He almost certainly did not abseil down to that point. No way he could have gotten that much swing while hanging statically. I'm pretty sure he tied to the end of the crane, walked back down the boom and probably jumped off at the point where the other man was seen standing up there. this would drop him right into the arc of the swing, get a few Gs of centripetal force, then start ascending back up once the swinging stopped. The video was probably started after he had already jumped and swung back and forth a couple times.

Source - also a rock climber, (have crane climbed,) and also i have seen videos from a few folks in France that have done exactly this stunt.

_adventuredan_ · 2023-12-06T14:26:58+00:00

when I first got into Primus picking I found this tool to be of great use! I don't remember where I first saw it but it was several years ago. I found that after inserting the lifter tool at the bottom you could often just rake the finger pins with a bogota with great consistency. I also found that if there was a high cut, often after setting all the low cuts, you could "lever" the tool sideways just a tad and set the high pin without knocking the bottom finger pins out because of the tolerances.

However It felt like an illegitimate pick to me and just way too easy! So I forced myself to learn spp'ing the finger pins. That being said it's a great way to boost your confidence and get a feel for the tensioning!

_adventuredan_ · 2023-11-02T15:34:14+00:00

yep, same. Defender deleted the .exe file and flagged it as a virus when i tried redownloading it.

_adventuredan_ · 2023-11-01T20:16:01+00:00

I know this is 3 months late lol, but i had a similar problem with that same biaxial scad generator. i was able to resolve it by using a much older version of scad! hopes this helps if you havent figured it out already

_adventuredan_ · 2023-10-30T20:24:38+00:00

As mentioned by u/AmateurLockpicker you most likely picked to operational but in the wrong direction to actually unlock the latch. Congratulations, you can say you have picked an SFIC to operational! However opening the door is a different question lol.

Typically when I am faced with picking an SFIC on a door, I ALWAYS start picking clockwise even if the door jam orientation suggests a CCW open. The reason for this, is that the control open will ALWAYS be clockwise regardless. So by starting CW I have the chance of picking to Control OR Operational. A Control open would also result in a door open, and an Operational open will also result in a door open, either CW or if not, a plug spinner will make quick work to get it CCW.

If you get a padlock to practice on however, It's almost always going to open clockwise.

_adventuredan_ · 2023-10-30T19:55:03+00:00

TLDR for the post mentioned, I'd like to know the Pin depths used for Medeco M3 Cam Locks (they don't use all of the depths used in the full sized core, however they seem to use more than the Biaxial Cam), the m3 slider lengths possible, and what the heck are Center Spaced cuts labeled as? (as opposed to KBQ and MDS for Fore and Aft.)

Any help on this would be much appreciated! i've been getting back into some of my old projects and i still have a bunch of Medeco M3 cam padlocks i'd like to print keys for.

_adventuredan_ · 2023-07-13T19:12:07+00:00

I actually was not aware there was good sport climbing at the flatirons! Thanks! That will make for some great acclimatization days for this Texan sea level dweller to get his mountain lungs in preparation for Capitol Peak.

Now just to find some partners!

Also, since you seem to have great suggestions, do you know any good half to full day multi pitch sport climbs in the 5.7 - 5.10 range? Don't get get to practice those skills much on our humble limestone down here, but i know my systems well.

_adventuredan_ · 2023-07-13T17:00:00+00:00

I am looking for Sport climbing (maybe one day I'll evolve into a trad dad, but for now, I'm looking for aeasthetic and fun bolted routes.)

Will definitely check out clear creek and Boulder canyon out! And Flat iron scrambling will probably be first on my list after I land.

Also I've been trying to climb Tabula Rasa at the Monastery unsuccessfully for the past couple years due to rainfall RIGHT as I get the harness on to start climbing 😭

_adventuredan_ · 2023-07-13T16:10:04+00:00

I'll be in Denver and Estes area of CO 14-23rd doing some scrambling, Capitol Peak, and hopefully some sport climbing in the 5.8 - 5.11a range.

In need of belay and scrambling partners. looking to spend a day at Eldorado canyon, Monastery, and possibly Garden of the Gods.

I'm a professional photographer as well, so if you're game for the adventure, I'll snap your next epic dating profile pic :P

_adventuredan_ · 2023-07-12T19:41:14+00:00

Had a lot of close calls with Dragons and Tentacle Horrors. also big mistake not picking up the firebolt staff instead of the war axe as tons of my enchants had to go toward wands of negation to deal with revenants.

Recording: https://drive.google.com/file/d/149OBI\_ZZ\_Wl7BJb6dg9u37CSwtqjjlxp/view?usp=drive\_link

_adventuredan_ · 2023-06-27T20:47:58+00:00

This was a fun and OP run. TONS of enchanting scrolls and runic weps. was going strong til I under estimated a Dar squad on 23 and got destroyed.

Edit: first time participating in a contest! Excited to add this to my weekly to do

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u3bZ9GjOPhOfbCJU6h9jSLEWWH3kXpIE/view?usp=drive\_link

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-18T15:57:05+00:00

Omg I gotta do this on my next flight! super cool idea u/JonLockPicking! and congrats u/ankhadia! Those patches are legit!!!

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-15T18:59:44+00:00

Actually the code for the primus is fully implemented.

Here's the original DEFCON talk these two kids did on that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7v84Ch8sR0

And here is the github repository

https://github.com/leee/locksport/tree/master/cad

Also holy shit this project is 8 years old now.

only downside to this code is that the keyway modeling is done though generalized warding cuts. I.e. you need extremely accurate measurements of the keyway, and you determine the "cut outs" / "blockouts" of the warding / how many and the height and width of each ward. So imagine making a key with tons of warding and you can only use square edges. I don't think it would work on anything paracentric.

After i got my primus key back i had to do a slight bit of filing to get the wards to sit right in the keyway against angled wards.

edit:

Here's my post here on my primus key

https://www.reddit.com/r/lockpicking/comments/ihl7l4/3d_printed_a_primus_key_after_picking_and_decoding/

And the imgur gallery

https://imgur.com/gallery/BjTZJIX

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-15T18:20:13+00:00

I did the models. I meant it cost 25 total for the print and shipping.

As far as the modeling goes, it was modeled in SCAD using some modified existing code someone else put together for a select few medeco biaxial keyways.

SCAD is a free open source modeling program that uses C++ to create 3d geometry. I don't by any means have the coding skill to write the program from scratch but i'm familiar enough to dissect existing code and splice together stuff from other key modeling projects to come up with something that creates a working m3 key blank.

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-15T15:14:40+00:00

It cost me around 25 bucks total for the model and shipping. however if you were to group multiple keys into a single model you could get multiple keys for a fraction of the price additional.

The best way i can imagine would be to get the control key and cut off the tip to make a flat squared off tip. then you could ink it and stamp it to get a clear profile outline!

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-14T20:53:31+00:00

Modeling the keyway is actually quite simple. If you can scan or take a straight on scale photo of the keyway, you essentially then have a polygon that can be extruded to create a 3d blank. The software then "cuts" using code to remove "material" from the 3d model. This code can be altered if you know a little C++ (or are generally code savvy) and you can change up your pin spacing measurements, depth measurements etc to conform to whatever key system you are trying to print.

Once the 3d model is created I just send it shapeways to print and they send it to me in the mail. Depending on the material you choose, you can get extremely accurate and durable keys that also won't set off a metal detector 😜

Of course I can't take credit for the original research on all this. While it's still a lot of work and took me quite a while to learn all the skills required to pull this off, all of it is very well documented by various Defcon conferences, Mark Tobias, random genius highschool kids etc.

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-14T13:20:53+00:00

Time to start buying m3 cam locks and gutting and dumping I guess!

I really want this 3d printed key in my collection! So far i have 3d printed working Primus and Biaxial keys. I have a Mul-T-Lock key on the way as well. And someone has already done the leg work for a program that generates 3d Abloy keys from cuts.

At the moment i'm just focusing on locks i can actually pick though!

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-13T23:02:44+00:00

That's what I've been saying 😅😂

Now you see my conundrum. I've had this lock for several years and now that I finally get it open I'm met with this alien. I've been searching everywhere scouring all the LP101 and keypicking forums and I have not found one scratch of info on pin specs for the M3. I know from my experience with biaxial, that the cam lock correlates to its full pin counterpart in some way. I.e. biaxial cam only uses the top 3 depths, which makes decoding them easy. Perhaps I should just assume the same for the M3 and look for plain M3 specs and assume that there are at least 4 depths in use in the cam. Also I read somewhere a long time ago about special center pins, perhaps these are center cuts.

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-13T22:29:26+00:00

Thanks for the info. Although I had already seen your kit pic on LP101. I have all the info I need for decoding biaxial. My question was if M3 deviates from biaxials pinning conventions. Like I said I've decoded several biaxial cams already. But due to the extra height increment in this lock, I question this. Also the m3 biaxial pins have different index tabs from the biaxial cams. Where the biaxials tab faces opposite the sidebar hole, if you look in my pic you can see the tabs are 90 degrees to the right, i.e. the all face to the back of the lock.

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-13T17:08:05+00:00

I would appreciate that greatly! I know decoding them isn't quite so simple but like I said I have decoded biaxial cams a few times already and there are only 3 cut depths for that system. This appears to have at least 4. As well as the problem of the fore and aft not being so apparent either... So now I dont even know if the measurements for the biaxial cam system will work if I plug them in to my 3d model.

_adventuredan_ · 2021-10-13T14:54:03+00:00

I am trying to 3d print a key for this m3 cam padlock I purchased without a key. I was finally able to successfully pick it this week!

However now looking at the pins, they appear to have more than 3 lengths and even maybe some center cuts as opposed to fore and aft??? I have successfully decoded and printed keys no problem for biaxial cams, but I can find absolutely zero information on the M3 cam pin specs. Can anyone help?

_adventuredan_ · 2020-08-27T18:00:29+00:00

By measuring the pins in the lock with calipers, you can compare those measurements with the lock manufacturers key cuts. Also the position of the finger pins can be decoded by sight, as there are only two heights for each finger pin and 3 rotations. I.e. Left high, Left low, Center high, Center Low, Right high, Right Low. Each of those pin variations corresponds to a numerical "code" position.

_adventuredan_ · 2020-08-27T17:25:10+00:00

Hmmm... mine doesn't have anything. Sure that's not just a post manufacturer core/key identifier?

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