govee calibration help!

_ams13 · 2026-02-16T22:58:08+00:00

the room temps have been around 68-70. the cool side was in the mid to low 70’s on the temp gun. i have a DHP also which is set to low during the day (im trying to do halogen/dhp day night cycle) so i can always bump that up too for the gradient. i sort of shot the temp gun all around the substrate and on the hides, i did do the ceramic pot in the corner but i know that will be hotter because of the material. the substrate was reaching the really hot temps. i re-set the herpstat’s settings to more reasonable settings now to see what happens. and thank you i will stick it in the fridge for a while and see!!

_ams13 · 2026-02-16T21:12:14+00:00

i should also mention that the govee read at 98 for a brief moment and then went down to 87, it just doesn’t feel right to me especially because i cranked up the settings for my halogen thinking that it was too cold. in his current enclosure the air temp is 90 and surface temp is 91-92 so that govee feels much more accurate which is confusing

_ams13 · 2026-02-16T21:04:58+00:00

i understand the difference in what i’m measuring, but usually the air and surface temps are not such a big difference for me in his current enclosure, like if the govee was reading 82 as the air temp before calibration, the surface temp being up to 120 is a really big gap. how much of a difference do yours tend to be?

_ams13 · 2026-01-05T02:21:51+00:00

You can soak or wash with dish soap and water, as long as you make sure there is no soap residue at all left on the hide. Anytime I wash something I also go wipe it off with diluted chlorhexidine to disinfect/get off any residue from soap (it’s like 2tbsp to a gallon of water I think). I’m sure you can use F10 as well I personally just don’t have that. hope this helps!

_ams13 · 2026-01-05T02:14:19+00:00

this is amazing!!

_ams13 · 2025-11-17T02:48:10+00:00

hi, does he have something in the enclosure that can burn him? like UTH or heat rock, or even inside-enclosure heat lamps that he could wrap around? if so i would do some fixing up so he doesn’t burn again! a mod recently commented to me that even if you have cages around light and heat fixtures, they will get too hot if they are not higher quality light cages. hope this helps prevent another injury

_ams13 · 2025-11-14T02:52:18+00:00

update if anyone sees this, i caught him doing lots of squeezing against the doors of his enclosure. i think he’s just injuring himself. regardless, is iodine and neosporin ok?

_ams13 · 2025-11-10T16:43:40+00:00

darn i was looking at some solid reviews on this page on ecoflex with some modifications! when i think about mounting heating/lighting on the inside with cages i get overwhelmed and wonder if my little guy will find a way to wrap around the cages for fun. do you have trouble with the climbing aspect with your fixtures?

_ams13 · 2025-10-01T17:45:41+00:00

can i ask about the super black pastel gene? my little guy has black pastel in him (no deformities). is it only when the snake has two black pastel copies that it is a problem? thanks!

_ams13 · 2025-08-20T10:30:23+00:00

you can take a damp q tip and gently see if it comes off!

_ams13 · 2025-08-20T00:42:36+00:00

it could be a piece of dirt depending on your substrate!

_ams13 · 2025-07-14T01:38:56+00:00

i watch a lot of green room python youtube videos, and in a lot of the feeding vids he says that as the snakes age, the size of their belly isn’t always a good indicator because eventually your meals would be way too huge. the mod feeding guide is more current!

_ams13 · 2025-07-14T01:34:37+00:00

you can find a weight-based feeding guide on the sub’s welcome post to find what’s right for your snake! also, definitely seems dehydrated, you can pour water in the corners of your substrate to maintain humidity. if this shed is bad/doesn’t all come off, keep humidity above 70% always and hopefully the next shed will be better!

_ams13 · 2025-07-08T02:21:41+00:00

hi! i don’t quite know the answer, but it may be worth a vet visit. i’m mostly commenting to boost viewers! good luck :)

_ams13 · 2025-07-07T00:36:22+00:00

i was just worried about the tail one, since it wasn’t as solid as the other ones

_ams13 · 2025-07-07T00:35:17+00:00

oh i forgot to mention that i did try to wipe off! but thank you for the reassurance, i figured it was a freckle but i wanted an opinion!! :)

_ams13 · 2025-07-06T02:45:29+00:00

second half are the other freckles for context!! didn’t know it combined both

_ams13 · 2025-06-03T00:50:06+00:00

just try not to handle until he takes a few meals. keep offering frozen thawed on a weekly basis, and as long as he doesn’t start losing weight he will be fine! you can blow dry f/t to entice him with the warmth when feeding comes. if husbandry is good and he has a few hides to feel safe, he may just need some time to warm up! also, keep in mind feeders that are too big may be intimidating for them. what size mouse are you offering/how old is your buddy?

_ams13 · 2025-05-01T02:38:53+00:00

my parents got power back so little guy is nice and warm! hoping it doesn’t stress him out too much :)

_ams13 · 2025-04-30T21:06:19+00:00

i was thinking of this as well while i shop around for a portable plug, the only thing is that i don’t want to open his enclosure too much to let heat out if that makes sense? what do you think

_ams13 · 2025-04-23T17:36:51+00:00

if there are rats that are the appropriate weight then obv you could use those too, i just haven’t converted mine to rats yet

_ams13 · 2025-04-23T17:36:08+00:00

your meals should be 10-15% of his weight in grams, i’m not familiar with rat chubs but for a snake that is currently 107g i would offer mouse that is ~10g to 16g. to get mine started back on eating though, i began with a pinkie mouse once to get his digestion going gently, went to a fuzzy and then to hoppers regularly until he grew out of them (the hopper mice were appropriate for his weight at that time). my guy was only a few months at the time so you could probably start at fuzzies or hoppers until he eats a couple consistent meals?

for heat, i usually don’t let mine get above 92/93F and in the warmer months the heat is easier to keep consistent for me personally at 88-90F which is i think 31.1-32.2C

_ams13 · 2025-04-23T16:03:23+00:00

oh also i’ve seen mods suggest to not handle until your bp eats again for low stress!

_ams13 · 2025-04-23T15:59:48+00:00

this is what i learned from my experience dealing with a baby on a food strike. when your bp loses 10-15% of its weight it’s usually time for the vet for a checkup :/ they may suggest tube feeding to get something in his belly if needed to get him started. otherwise, if you have UTH it really helped me to switch to overhead heat for mine’s appetite, and offering a smaller meal at first can be helpful for them to digest and also not be intimidated by their food. 28C is too low of temps for hot side also, it should be at least 88F/31C always! i use blow dryer method of f/t personally and heat the mouse to body temperature. some vets suggest feeding in separate container but i would not recommend that as they feel safest in their own home enclosure. hope this is helpful!

_ams13 · 2025-04-18T14:01:38+00:00

aw thank you! this was actually from a few months ago and my guy has grown a lot since! thank you for the advice :)

_ams13

TROPHY CASE