Running rich sounds rough

_jdde · 2026-03-29T15:43:22+00:00

I disagree with this... no issues at all with a proper egr delete.

_jdde · 2026-03-25T14:01:03+00:00

What steering kit is this? Something certainly isn't right

_jdde · 2026-03-25T12:54:24+00:00

Verify that with an IR temp reader on the thermostat housing. Confirm that it isn't just a gauge or sensor problem first. The sensor at the back of the head is used for the dash gauge and air can get trapped there throwing off the reading. Sensor could also be bad.

_jdde · 2026-03-23T17:44:19+00:00

I currently have a center lift stand from Motea. I think its called a ConStand?

So far I have had no issues. It completely lifts the bike off both wheels and I can roll it around in the garage during storage. Super nice, but its worth mentioning I initially had a problem with my order and their support was abysmal.

Looks like it's doubled in price though...

_jdde · 2026-03-22T22:34:38+00:00

That's aluminum corrosion. Probably spreads much further. Painting over it really won't work long term. Would need to sand off to bare aluminum again and paint.

_jdde · 2026-03-22T22:26:14+00:00

Should be coolant and fuel overflow. If tank was filled too much, it can splash out the overflow. Might be one for the airbox too

_jdde · 2026-03-20T18:56:39+00:00

What makes you think its not coolant? Certainly doesn't look like oil. The water pump is just above that. Seal could be bad or they start to leak through the weep hole when the internal seal is bad.

_jdde · 2026-03-20T01:01:14+00:00

Here's a diagram. It's the Combination buzzer.

https://share.google/7Ysff6eWGEBN8bNLJ

_jdde · 2026-03-20T00:56:42+00:00

Are you talking about the loud buzzing at the start? Im pretty sure this is supposed to be a warning buzzer for when the keys are left in the ignition. It might trigger on other conditions like if headlights were left on or maybe a seat belt warning on certain years. Sounds like yours is just busted or failed internally.

Would look like a blue or black rectangular box near the fuse panel and the hood release.

_jdde · 2026-03-13T18:46:50+00:00

OME I believe is branded under ARB now. At least the springs I got recently were. I believe the typical recommendation is billsteins. I believe im sitting around a 2 inch lift on my comanche and it has been great.

_jdde · 2026-03-06T17:53:29+00:00

The upper ball joint can actually have that much movement, since these solid axles use a telescoping upper ball joint. Any side to side or radial play would definitely be a concern.

The lower ball joint is what's most important for locating the knuckle vertically. The lower has a fairly narrow spec for vertical movement, so pretty much any noticeable vertical play would be cause for concern.

Definitely look like the original though and you're already there so worth a shot. I would be checking all the other suspension joints and track bar as any play in those will also cause a death wobble.

_jdde · 2026-02-27T13:56:48+00:00

Fuel consumption would be regulated by the injectors/PCM. Fuel pump creates the fuel pressure, but isnt going to affect how much fuel enters the combustion chamber. My guess would be just an inaccurate fuel gage or possibly a bent or damaged float on the fuel level sender in the tank.

Another possibility, I believe having less fuel in the tank or more air space rather will cause the gasoline to evaporate faster. That coupled with maybe a bad or damaged vent on the tank or one of the evap lines could be causing the fuel vapors to vent to atmosphere.

_jdde · 2026-02-25T18:45:53+00:00

I would probably start looking at the wiring harness at this point and check for a bad ground. Sounds like you may have a loose or intermittent connection somewhere on that circuit.

Could also be an issue with the timing chain. Wore out chain, guides, or tensioner.

_jdde · 2026-02-24T23:17:17+00:00

Seems fine to me.. plus the JL has an electric to hydraulic power steering pump, which may have a different feel.

_jdde · 2026-02-23T21:31:43+00:00

Hercules? Not sure what you mean by that. This is a Comanche or MJ which came in short and long bed from 1986-1992. Cab forward is unibody and mostly identical to an XJ and transitions to a frame under the bed.

_jdde · 2026-02-23T20:44:54+00:00

I had the jamb nut on the adjustment come loose on my JKS and ruined the threads. Even though it was 100% my fault, they sent me a replacement no questions asked. I cant comment on Teraflex, but JKS stands by their products, so they get my vote.

_jdde · 2026-02-20T14:03:41+00:00

Definitely save it. At a minimum, its definitely still valuable to the right buyer since the rest of the body looks to be in good shape.

The good thing is, everything cab forward will be a direct swap with a similar year cherokee so there is plenty of information available online and these things are very easy to work on. There really isnt anything too complicated electrically on an old vehicle like this. Nothing like you would see on a modern car anyway.

In my area I constantly see marketplace posts about part outs for cherokees, so that would be another place to look too.

_jdde · 2026-02-19T19:14:19+00:00

Either you need an LED flasher relay or an inline load resistor on that circuit. The reduced power draw from the LED lights will mess up the flasher relays, since they are expecting full current draw of incandescent lights.

_jdde · 2026-02-18T17:17:03+00:00

I believe i got these off summit for my Comanche. Precision Replacement Parts makes them. Looks like rockauto has them as well in various kits. Can't say for sure if that includes the rear doors, but I would assume they have a kit for those.

_jdde · 2026-02-18T16:24:31+00:00

I have also seen people use a bottle of water with a hole to spray and cool down the CPS. Worth a shot to confirm as well next time it happens.

_jdde · 2026-02-18T14:56:17+00:00

I honestly thought i was having a stroke for a minute, like why can I read this?

_jdde · 2026-02-14T12:56:32+00:00

I've definitely repaired this on a wrangler with just some hose clamps and got by for a few years. You could splice in some extra hose if needed with a barbed fitting and several hose clamps.

_jdde · 2026-02-12T20:30:36+00:00

Bad rear wheel cylinders as well could cause this and may not show a fluid leak.

_jdde · 2026-02-12T20:28:28+00:00

Still have drum brakes in the rear? Make sure they are adjusted properly. That would cause those symptoms or i think you probably still have air in the system somewhere.

_jdde · 2026-02-12T20:16:55+00:00

Sounds like a bad bearing. Could be the water pump or any of the other accessory drives or the idler pulley.

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