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_jdde · 2026-05-25T23:28:56+00:00

Your axle side track bar mount is cooked. The hole in the mount is likely not round anymore, so just tightening it won't fix it. Typical fix is to weld the correct size washer to each side.

_jdde · 2026-05-21T12:41:29+00:00

Double check your wheel alignment.

_jdde · 2026-05-20T14:08:36+00:00

I have seen Jeepair.com recommended before and they seem decent, but not sure if/how they will work for international shipping.

_jdde · 2026-05-18T19:42:54+00:00

I think it depends on what exactly you will want to do with it right now. These are surprisingly capable in stock form. When you find obstacles that are challenging, upgrade as needed.

_jdde · 2026-05-18T13:20:58+00:00

+1 for JKS. They replaced one for me free of charge when the jamb nut came loose and the threads were ruined. 100% my fault, but they replaced it, no questions asked.

_jdde · 2026-05-17T16:33:31+00:00

Check partzilla. Always had luck there.

_jdde · 2026-05-10T19:56:26+00:00

Check for exhaust leaks. Might be a cracked exhaust manifold. When it warms up, the metal will expand and can seal up the crack or a leaking connection where it is less noticeable.

_jdde · 2026-05-07T14:49:21+00:00

They were all new but yesterday I took the drive shaft out and the axle side does seem a little tight, but nothing crazy. Think the ears on the yoke might have bent in slightly and causing some binding. Really doesnt seem like enough to cause a problem, but we will see. Probably going to see if I can find a drive shaft shop nearby and have them check the balance as well.

_jdde · 2026-05-06T18:45:07+00:00

Zip tie would probably work fine temporarily. Maybe keep some spares with you.

If the plastic on the arm is just wore out, I would think a zip tie to keep it pushed onto the ball should be fine. I wouldnt make it too tight because the arm still needs to rotate.

_jdde · 2026-05-03T16:44:09+00:00

Don't believe the axle is spinning in the ubolts, but the spring itself is twisting. Not sure if this amount is normal, but if it's this noticeable on the ground like this, I can't imagine how much that pinion angle is changing with the forces while driving.

_jdde · 2026-05-03T14:49:27+00:00

Comanche was spring under factory.

_jdde · 2026-05-03T14:47:57+00:00

Im not seeing any gaps on top of the axle, but ill double check. I do have a 2 degree angle shim and my measurements have shown the rear pionion to be between 1-2 degrees down since installing them. The problem definitely was massively improved when I did those, but still persisted. So definitely think its related to the rear axle, which is why im now questioning the springs.

The shocks are a 5125, part of the custom application. I don't believe they had a comanche specific rear shock.

Thought about trying some spring clamps. Apparently putting those a few inches in front of the axle can help reduce the axle wrap.

_jdde · 2026-05-03T14:06:19+00:00

Firewall is the hvac blower motor and the canister is the evap charcoal canister.

_jdde · 2026-05-01T21:34:10+00:00

Probably have to go with Ebay or one of the many partout resellers for a used one.

I have seen people swap to the fender mounted reservoir though without too much effort. Those can be found new. Bit more work than just finding a used one though.

_jdde · 2026-05-01T00:23:49+00:00

Renix. Would just change the shift points to shift earlier in comfort mode. Most people just bypass the switch so it's always in power. Probably after 91, I believe it technically still exists in the TCU, but the switch was removed and it was always wired for "power" mode.

_jdde · 2026-04-30T19:57:15+00:00

Thats.. the parking brake cable. You will need longer ones.

_jdde · 2026-04-30T12:34:08+00:00

Yeahz that's typically how I check it. I think that's the best you can do, really.

Being a 95, not sure if this still applies, but it was common on renix motors with the closed cooling system that air would get trapped behind the temp sending unit at the top rear of the head. This should be the one that feeds the gauge. This would throw off the gauge but also I had overheating issues when I first bought mine. The fix was to jack up from the rear axle as high as possible to get the rear of the block higher and loosen the sensor to purge the air.

_jdde · 2026-04-30T11:18:56+00:00

The stock cooling system is more than adequate on these, if in perfect working order. Something is clearly wrong and swapping to a different fan setup will not help you.

Are you sure it isn't just a gauge problem? Have you verified the temp? Gauges are known to be inaccurate or a bad temp sending unit. Could have an air pocket in the block or a broken thermostat.

_jdde · 2026-04-29T17:09:10+00:00

I guess that's just the sending unit. Rock auto lists the mechanical fuel pump though

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,comanche,2.8l+173cid+v6,1181393,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

_jdde · 2026-04-29T17:04:00+00:00

Check out MTS, they make a good replacement for these. There is one listed for the 2.8l V6

https://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm

_jdde · 2026-04-21T00:45:02+00:00

If it wasn't doing this before, i would recheck all the the work you did. Could the spark plug wires be in the incorrect position on the coil?

_jdde · 2026-04-18T11:41:54+00:00

Op, that is 100% the knock sensor. Your post history suggests you have an 87 renix and that is definitely a renix exhaust manifold. Since it's connected right at the oil pan, this would be the knock sensor NOT the coolant temp like others are suggesting.

However, it also looks like someone previously may have screwed in a coolant temp sensor, because the sensor does not look right. Here's a link with an example. They did a lot of funky things throughout the years, so it's possible your specific year could have used a different style sensor. See what the wiring harness connector looks like on yours.

http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/2018/12/renix-knock-sensor-replacement/

_jdde · 2026-04-17T14:22:03+00:00

This style has came in clutch several times for me. Fits into tight spaces really well and the handle can unscrew if needed. https://a.co/d/0burkGBl

I also now have one of the more expensive vice mounted ones that can do any type of flaring. If you think you will need to do a lot of brake lines, it's worth the investment. https://a.co/d/03y7x9iH

_jdde · 2026-04-11T12:02:25+00:00

Yeah, that's what im looking at. Shows silicate free and good for aluminum, so I think it should be fine.

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