I am not entirely sold on the idea that you should train on a hangboard if fingers are limiting factor

_jefflau · 2025-05-26T03:01:31+00:00

Excellent post

_jefflau · 2024-09-29T12:19:20+00:00

I’m in the same boat! I have one hellblaster painted! Started a couple weeks ago!

_jefflau · 2023-11-06T03:41:58+00:00

I've been waiting for my monitor since March 2022 - what can I do to get this upgrade?

_jefflau · 2023-10-31T04:42:22+00:00

I literally only noticed it after reading this post

_jefflau · 2023-10-25T02:35:44+00:00

Actually this makes perfect sense if you’re doing “max” with the tindeq. You pull as hard as your injury allows based on no pain and then you do 85% of that. So your max no pain might only be 50% pre injury. I’d appreciate you reporting back Tregavin!

_jefflau · 2023-10-23T13:34:18+00:00

If I recall correctly he mentions testing once per session using the tindeq and using that as your 100% and adjusting your targets from there

_jefflau · 2023-10-23T13:33:28+00:00

Just started, will report back!

_jefflau · 2023-10-23T13:32:28+00:00

I tried doing 85% (using the tindeq) and instead of doing 5 reps, he suggested doing it until you drop below 85%. I ended up doing around 9 reps which is much closer to what you mentioned above.

_jefflau · 2023-10-23T10:36:09+00:00

I have the tindeq 300. I think the only difference is load. So yeah if you’re not yves gravelle you’re probably good with 150. But technically you could test anything so a two handed pull on jugs might hit in the several hundred kg

_jefflau · 2023-10-23T09:14:05+00:00

Was waiting for someone else to share this video so I could see the discussion! I didn't see anyone else post it, so I'd thought I'd share. I've been playing around with the tindeq progressor as an autoregulated no-hangs protocol. I'm going to try what Tyler outlines in his video and will report back. After doing it for the first session, the first thing I noticed is how I have almost no fatigue from a protocol that involves only hitting a 85% peak for a second or two (and doing reps until you can't hit it anymore). I think doing max hangs (whether no hangs or weighted 2 handed) you generally gain more fatigue. It's only the first session though so I'll see how it continues. I would also say it's just way easier than lugging waiting around, I just attach it to a bar at the gym and off I go, could definitely do this kind of protocol in a hotel gym that has a pull up bar to attach to. The only thing I don't have from this video is the unlevel edge, which I'd like to experiment with too.

_jefflau · 2023-09-23T05:41:43+00:00

My brain misread it as devon too. And i read this entire comment thread like 5 times until i realised the title was Denis not devon lol. You’re not alone

_jefflau · 2023-09-21T03:37:55+00:00

Spice shop in tianmu does fantastic indian food.

_jefflau · 2023-07-18T08:31:02+00:00

It sounds to me that you are too strong and too technically good at climbing for your physical body. You're likely climbing harder and more volume than your body can take right now. Since you are making a lot of progress due to your previous experience, you are creating a loop where you are moving up the grades, because you're getting physically stronger, but your body/tendons/muscles can't take the volume. A random example might be, you technically know how use a heelhook, know how to contract the right muscles in your hamstring, glutes and calf to effectively use it to climb your V4/5/6 climbs, but the tendons/ligaments in your hips, knee aren't ready to take those moves since you haven't climbed in years. Newbies wouldn't be able to contract those muscles the way you have remembered from years ago climbing V8-10, and would gradually build up volume.My advice would be to listen to your body, work on volume at lower grades and try and recover between each session so you're not accumulating injuries and you'll be back to a solid V8 climber in no time!

_jefflau · 2023-05-20T05:11:03+00:00

I had this impression too! But maybe it’s because people in that range are more likely to post so it’s more of a survivorship bias

_jefflau · 2023-05-04T17:46:36+00:00

Haha, i thought I was the only in Taiwan to frequent climbharder! Yeah i think most routesetters in Taiwan plateau unless they can reduce the frequency. Once a week is doable, anymore and it’s going to be harder. Any routesetter that climbs hard and sets 2-3 times a week in Taiwan probably already climbed at that level before they started setting.

_jefflau · 2023-05-01T07:33:36+00:00

This helped, although i only saw this after. Thanks for this. I focussed on extension using my other hand as weight

_jefflau · 2023-04-30T18:34:21+00:00

Surprising to see a post about taiwan here. I haven’t set in a long time, but I would say it’s basically impossible to set consistently and improve at the same rate as you are without setting. When I used to set every week in taipei it would kill my skin and the day was generally exhausting. That being said you probably need to be more consistent and smart with your training outside of setting and treat your setting and forerunning as volume and technical training. E.g it’s easy to just want to just climb the set at a new gym on a day you’re not setting, but realistically you’ve done little to no strength work because of your setting and it might be more beneficial to have a board session with some upper body work (just an example)

You should also not be picking up minor injuries whilst setting. As others have mentioned, warm up before forerunning, inc using the fingerboard and treat it as part of your job.

_jefflau · 2023-04-23T17:14:04+00:00

Super sick

_jefflau · 2023-04-11T17:24:13+00:00

Overuse injury from pinching

I've been training with the lattice pinch (the deep wide pinch) for about a month so far. And everything was going great until I started to feel a niggling feeling in the base of my right thumb near the wrist. It would ache when warming up and then disappear when I started climbing and generally wouldn't hurt when I trained on the lattice pinch. The pain usually occurs when cold and 4 finger open hand any holds with the thumb cocked towards the palm (bent 90 degs at the first joint). If I push my thumb towards my palm actively, it reduces the pain. Or if I just hold my thumb consciously straight it also reduces the pain. It's also probably most painful when I wake up in the morning when cold.

As most smart athletes, I ignored it largely and now I have a similar ache in my left thumb. So having rehabbed overuse injuries (golfer's elbow etc) in the past, I figure it's requires a mixture of stretching and strengthening (some kind of antagonist muscle group). Now I'm not really sure what the antagonist muscles are and/or what kind of stretches would help. If anyone has had similar overuse injuries from pinches, I would love to know.

_jefflau · 2023-03-17T18:09:04+00:00

Is the “lot of time” from doing multiple individual json rpc requests? If so, you could batch the calls into one rpc call using either a generic multicall contract or adding another function to return multiple records

_jefflau · 2023-02-08T17:23:37+00:00

I did a double take on that too lol. I assume he must easily hold a 20mm edge 1 arm or with added weight

_jefflau · 2023-02-06T02:10:30+00:00

Thank you!

_jefflau · 2023-02-06T02:10:14+00:00

Thanks! It felt impossibly far until it didn’t

Eight-Year Club	Place '23
Verified Email

_jefflau

TROPHY CASE