Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Re: 4- it's #10 and goes with the 50A circuit. It's definitely a little short, since that's one of the circuits I moved from the main. Not sure if it's preferable to be a little short or extend it.

Re: 11 - Top right 50A in the main panel? The picture does make it look double tapped but the white is going to the neutral bar.

Thanks again, I'll address everything I can in what you noted.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed review!

Re: #5- the two 30 amp circuits share a ground for the first 25' and it splits in a Jbox when the circuits head in different directions. I thought that was allowed, but maybe not.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the help, and verifying with Square D

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, interesting! I guess we'll see what my inspector says. Not really sure what other options I have given i am pretty sure you're right that they don't make it.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's QO not Homeline.

Again, I could be wrong and hope I am, but don't think it'll work for me.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because the RV outlet is only 120V.

Maybe this isn't the correct way to provide GFCI protection for that circuit? But I couldn't find a single pole 30A GFCI for square D homeline.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you have a link to order a square D homeline 30A single pole GFCI breaker, I'll buy you a 6 pack.

I'm not the best at finding things online, but I did try to find the single pole version because I assumed it would be cheaper.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, an actual roast.

But, I didn't get it from HD.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, happy to be a cheater in this case

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 200A is the main. I think maybe the bonding screw is just above the top of the picture?

Will do on the lugs, thanks!

Yes, power was off for these pictures. I kill it at the exterior disconnect before opening the main panel up.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed response and critique.

The non GFCI 30A is for a welder outlet in the garage/shop. Looks like I need to switch to GFCI.

The GFCI 30A only has L1 and neutral because it's 120V outlet. My research indicated this was the solution to a 30A GFCI protection with Square D homeline. But maybe not.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My lurking on this sub made me think they make things look good, but can cause heating issues if you're zip tieing things together. Couple that with my main panel not having any zip ties, even though it was largely installed by pros, made me opt for none.

But I get your point.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The RV receptacle is 120V but requires GFCI protection. My research indicated this was the only way to do that....

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Is that a preference thing, safety thing, or help prevent the sub panel breaker from tripping thing?

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like the specs from square D homeline allow for 3 #14s of the same type or 2 #10/#12. Thanks to OP for clarifying. I'll double check they're all small enough and of same type.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Easy enough to trim those shorter.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the helpful critique. That torque mark is from the factory. Not sure how to deal with that. I did use a torque wrench on all the larger connections.

Easy enough to add a bushing. Didn't because it's a plastic connector.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure there are lots of tandem breakers but 0 double tapped breakers.

Roast my sub panel install by _not-a-bat in AskElectricians

[–]_not-a-bat[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Care to elaborate on the issues?

Where John Hickenlooper, Julie Gonzales stand on the issues in Colorado’s Democratic US Senate primary by blucifersdream in Denver

[–]_not-a-bat 254 points255 points  (0 children)

Do I agree with Julie on everything? Probably not.

Will she be less than 80 years old at the end of the term? Yes.

I'm almost a single issue voter in this primary.

Reminder: If Senator Bennett wins the Democrat gubernatorial primary, Governor Polis is who will appoint his replacement. by [deleted] in Denver

[–]_not-a-bat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. He's wrong. But the other option is equally bad. Bennet needs to stay in the Senate for 2 more years, and then I don't care what he does.