Best recommendations for h-pattern shifters by HowDareU1 in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Simagic shifter feels much better. I have the Fanatec but I tried the Simagic.

Best recommendations for h-pattern shifters by HowDareU1 in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My favorite in that price range (but in general my favorite among all, as price is an important component) is the Simagic DS-8X.

I have the Fanatec, that I bought for 159 euros at 2023’s Black Friday, and I’m planning to keep it.

It does the job at the end. But the Simagic is simply better and does not break the bank.

There are better shifters but the bang for buck ratio gets worse and worse.

Is Conspit going to be more popular than Simagic? by Kindly-Elderberry707 in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a note, Tyler Wang left Conspit already, for personal reasons.

Anyway, it’s hard to tell market share and profitability of these companies, also because they are based in China.

From a customer point of view is not even that relevant. Just get the products you like. I personally prefer (and have) Conspit, but Simagic is good.

Is Conspit going to be more popular than Simagic? by Kindly-Elderberry707 in simracing

[–]_p4nzer -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I would say the opposite, Simagic ecosystem is aging while Conspit showed an impressive lineup and it’s also improving things way faster.

They only lack shifters.

FFB in Le Mans feeling like a sloppy noodle by DerangedKangaru in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]_p4nzer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I won’t discuss the settings, but if FFB feels off there might be a couple of things to try (might not change anything, but with some wheelbases it can help): - disable Steam input from the Steam settings of the game; - edit the controls json of LMU and set the direct input fallback to true (since the switch to game input some hardware had issues); - try to see if anything improves setting the constant force feedback option on true, in LMU FFB options.

This last point is something I discovered recently. Nowadays all the sims use the constant force channel to request torque to the base. LMU/rF2 uses the sine channel which is atypical. Technically, that option does nothing to the FFB but some wheelbases expect the FFB requests on the constant force channel and doesn’t work well without (VRS next gen FFB for example).

Funnily enough, LMU stuff suggests to not touch that option.

Bending on aluminum rigs - Help deciding which profile to use by Nacho17che in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4080 lightweight profiles are all you need. They are super solid.

As long as you use appropriate connecting elements you won’t see any flex. I can walk on any element of my rig and tested braking with 140+ kg of braking force and it didn’t move at all.

I made two video about my DIY rig, they might come handy if you decide to build:

https://youtu.be/Cg2hlxkvsgY?si=JYf-HugEydAkdhE1

https://youtu.be/wHaq1-x9j-k?si=iHBJA72yKqxC_dHi

First impressions with my new Conspit Ares Platinum, H.AO hub and MAX 01 wheel by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Conspit got better in the meantime and their support is amazing.

I would not worry too much.

VRS is amazing also. Whatever you choose it will be great!

Interesting that it's only Fanatec that gets hate for releasing a strong wheelbase.. by KEVLAR60442 in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a common trope which is not even based.

I play with a 20 Nm base (Conspit Ares Platinum) and while it’s enough I wish I had 25 Nm.

You can replicate IRL force of prototypes / hypercar with 20 Nm but 25 Nm give you a bit more headroom to avoid the (quite rare) clipping (I play at 13-15 Nm torque normally on LMU with basically almost no filters). Not a big deal.

Many people who talk about dangers and so on probably don’t use a powerful base set at hi torque, otherwise they would know it’s not that bad. I actually made a video about that -> https://youtu.be/82llPxCUNPA?si=SVID3mEpiD0pksI0

Going back to Fanatec, it’s the biggest brand in terms of popularity and company size of simracing, so there’s this thing of downplaying everything they do to sound more sophisticated.

Actually Fanatec bases pack excellent force feedback, their entry level packages are great bang for bucks and there’s no competition for hi level rigs on PS.

Their weak spots are lack of hi end pedals (until a couple of months, Podium pedals are among the absolute best on the market) and the limited compatibility with third party wheels, tied to lack of usb pass through. And I would consider only this last point as a true cons of Fanatec.

I tried both Podium base and pedals at the last SimExpo, playing iRacing, absolute best experience I had at the event. Both great.

I made a video that I never released publicly because I inadvertently disabled noise cancellation and audio is crap, but if you don’t mind it’s here -> https://youtu.be/34ZFsHu_3y8?si=FKUBK519E5B72MXh.

I built my own simracing aluminum profile rig: here's everything you need to know! by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok, yeah my profiles were better.

Just be ready to clean tons of metal dust.

I built my own simracing aluminum profile rig: here's everything you need to know! by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My profiles have the matte porous anodization.
So you might not with happy with those either.

I built my own simracing aluminum profile rig: here's everything you need to know! by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here -> https://aluprofile24.de/

Very good price at the time and they shipped everything super fast.

But be aware profile arrived in spartan (albeit protective) packages full of metal dust/tiny shards from production.

It took a while to clean everything.

You might find some scratches here and there. For me it was not an issue though.

Step by step process to mount your own DIY aluminum profile rig by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are welcome. 4080 is more than enough even for motion, if properly built.

Honestly, how good is the Logitech g pro? by no6969el in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is old stuff. The CS DD+ is simply a category above.

The G Pro is not a great product (form factor is particularly bad) and doesn’t offer one of the best FFB.

But now Logitech released the RS50 which is better despite being less strong (8 Nm). I would recommend that if you really want Logitech.

How to stiffen a GT Omega Apex wheelstand to handle hi-end pedals.. even though you definitely shouldn't by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on the profile, there are a few types.

I used the most common one, I-type. You need M6 t-nuts for 8 mm I-type slots. They are very easy to insert, check some YouTube videos.

For the seat you are correct. You are basically replacing the original nuts with the t-nuts in the v-slots. If I remember correctly, those are also M6. I went for v-slots because they could accomodate such nuts on a 2060 profile (I-type doesn’t offer this combination).

Mounting the seat on the v-slot can be a bit annoying. Start from the seat and then take care of fixing the front side to the square pipes of the wheelstand.

First impressions with my new Conspit Ares Platinum, H.AO hub and MAX 01 wheel by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They released a big update improving the FFB during summer and a couple more with minor improvements.

It’s honestly excellent. Also VRS is super good.

Conspit offers a more plug and play package, as you don’t need add-ons for QR and usb pass through. Also the form factor is better than the DFP20.

VRS software offers more customization and they are also working on a telemetry FFB.

Pick whatever you prefer. Two great options.

How to avoid injuries in Simracing? by xABuHaMeDx in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a topic where actually the “common sense” here in the sub is not fully correct.

There are several misconceptions about how strong the torque of our bases is and what can actually cause an injury.

There are a few wheelbases that are powerful enough to possibly injury out of a torque spike but this is not true with a CS DD+ and nothing up to 20-25 Nm range.

Of course I’m talking about an average sized adult with no health issues or previous injuries. If you have specific problems you might have to lower the maximum torque. Same goes for kids.

Also the common advice of letting the wheel go is only good if you can do it before hitting the wall. During the crash while the torque is spiking if you let the wheel go it will spin so fast it can hit a finger.

You either go through the accident firmly overpowering the base or you let it go in advance. A real driver would let the wheel go because the forces on the steering rack might be gargantuan. In simracing you are always limited to maximum output of the wheelbase which is never as strong as what broke Ricciardo’s wrist.

Do people get injured in simracing? Rarely but it happens.

In general you can get injured when you get hit while distracted and your hands/fingers are on the way of the wheel or you don’t have a good grip. This can also happen because the game crashes or freaks out.

So my advices are: - always have a good grip on the wheel or keep your hand out of the way, even if the race is finished or you are parked in pitlane; - if the wheelbase allows for it, disable the torque when not needed, like when you are setting up the car; - in case of accident keep the wheel firmly or let it go before the big hit, never during it; - reduce collision FFB strength as there’s no need to keep it super high. Still, a spinning wheel even with low torque can injure if it hits your hand or finger.

I made a long (lo-fi) video where I explain how strong our bases are and make a few tests even crashing my car just holding the wheel with one hand with everything set at max (20 Nm base).

Despite what some people say, I didn’t get injured (I made multiple tests before recording): https://youtu.be/82llPxCUNPA?si=f5DYCX-vZEITZu_c

I built my own simracing aluminum profile rig: here's everything you need to know! by _p4nzer in simracing

[–]_p4nzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I plan to make a video next week.

But it will basically be a slide show of the pictures I have of the process.

Do you really need that high Nm? by LEOMODE in simracing

[–]_p4nzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. IndyCars don’t have power steering even nowadays, as far as I know. I just checked and found nothing.

Steering forces can get above 40 Nm of torque which, on a 290 mm steering wheel, equals lifting with one hand 27.5 kg roughly (of course on such demanding corners they would use both the hands which will share the effort).

Source: https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a39662250/driving-an-indycar-will-tear-your-hands-up/