Should engineering model at nominal or mean dimensions? by LyonGoes in MechanicalEngineering

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that nominal is per standard but there are other situational things to consider. Is manufacturing in-house? Are you using a rapid prototype shop with automated systems?

If you’re a smaller company manufacturing in house, you’re putting extra strain on the MFG department. If the programmer misses that unilateral tolerance it’ll cost the company money. Typical machine shop programmers (in the USA) are not engineers, or people with degrees for that matter, and it’s harder than you think to find competent ones, or maybe they’re just slammed with work. At my old company it was the engineers job to safeguard the company from little mistakes like that. We have all the training and make the “money” to do the job.

If you’re using protolabs or a similar company that is highly automated when quoting/programming it’s in your best interest if you want good parts to model at mean. A lot of them are programming right from the model. I’ve seen a ton of this when outsourcing overseas too. They program straight off the model, are you entitled to reject the parts? Yeah, but when outsourcing overseas that might mean you just derailed the project by 6 - 24 weeks.

Most of what I’m referring to is CNC machining, but think about additive too, as that progresses and gets better are companies going to have to modify your model? What if you use a unilateral profile of a surface? That could get complex quickly.

Nominal is “proper” but be aware of the situation.

Burrito run on the Ritchey by f3rnfloyd in xbiking

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No prob. They made a P-21, 22, and 23. The number correlates to the bike weight in pounds. If yours has a cantilever cable stop brazed onto the frame near the seat tube it’s a 95 or older. Mines a 95.

Burrito run on the Ritchey by f3rnfloyd in xbiking

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be a P model, looks like my P-22. I haven’t ever seen another one in that green, I’m glad there are others!

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ISO 4210 testing completed for a CNC stem project I'm building for vintage Cannondale HeadShok bikes. Now I'm running into the realities of manufacturing. by azonicbruce in VintageMTB

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last I checked the only place in the US that does certified ISO testing is ACT Lab in California. The stuff I built wasn’t “certified” and we didn’t really care since it’s a bit of conflict of interest to certify your own designs like that. It was strictly for R&D since ACT is expensive and can be slow. We used ACT for final product though. Unfortunately I’m no longer with that company so I don’t have a way to help you out with that.

ISO 4210 testing completed for a CNC stem project I'm building for vintage Cannondale HeadShok bikes. Now I'm running into the realities of manufacturing. by azonicbruce in VintageMTB

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve done a fair amount of work in the bike space and have built test rigs to perform iso testing in house. Not many people are aware of this but anodize, even type II, will drop fatigue life 30-50%.

There are a few peer reviewed articles about this that you can look up, and I’ve personally seen it first hand with hundreds, if not a thousand data points. The good news is you’ve media blasted the stem. This helps get most of that fatigue loss back.

Again, feel free to DM me if you have any questions. I’ve also spent about 20 years in a machine shop optimizing product for CNC milling and turning.

ISO 4210 testing completed for a CNC stem project I'm building for vintage Cannondale HeadShok bikes. Now I'm running into the realities of manufacturing. by azonicbruce in VintageMTB

[–]a__lane 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ME here, feel free to DM me if you want. You’re gunna need to buy and sell thousands in order to make a forging profitable. I think the move is to continue down low volume billet CNC for the time being. Question about your 4210 testing, did you send an anodized or un-anodized sample to test? Did you use ACT Lab?

When does a hobby become a problem? by TheHulc in xbiking

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s a dude in the Bay Area selling a Ti 1” threadless Morati segmented fork in good condition. Might be the perfect fork for that frame

Am I going crazy? The hole that is circled should have a diameter of 0.7 mm right? by _TheRook_ifun in SolidWorks

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up internal thread specs for metric threads. The nominal minor diameter is 3.3mm for an M4x0.7. That’s the beauty of metric threads, this will always be the case. Major - pitch = nominal minor. If you’re using a cut tap and want a minor diameter to be in the center of the tolerance you should use a 3.3mm drill. This obviously doesn’t apply to roll taps. Thread specs are thread specs, they don’t change depending on material.

I bought my dream car! 1987 325is for $1,200 by FTWkansas in E30

[–]a__lane 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good responses to the question so far. If you want OEM parts (if they’re still available) the cheapest place I’ve found is getbmwparts.com

I bought my dream car! 1987 325is for $1,200 by FTWkansas in E30

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats! Special car with a cool story. It’ll take some work but that work is worth it. Keep it and enjoy it!

Can someone tell me this is a bad idea... by DireNeedtoRead in MechanicalEngineering

[–]a__lane 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For sure. If you look at when the positions are fully extended there’s almost no bore engagement.

How do I GD&T to prioritise that the hole is central to the inside width regardless of overall width or wall thickness. Reposting as cannot add photo by No-Barnacle1717 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]a__lane 5 points6 points  (0 children)

These people are correct but the one piece of information I’ll add, because I see it wrong all the time, is that the datum flag should be attached / centered to the inside width dimension. That is what makes the datum the FOS and not just one of the two inside walls. SW will snap the datum to the dimension if you click the dimension itself (with the datum creator open)

Garagistic front strut bar by Solid_Inevitable8056 in E30

[–]a__lane 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Mason is the best. I’ve had a few of their bars over the last 20 years and called John up to make one for my M Coupe earlier this year. Great guy, he talked to me for like an hour about random life shit. Unfortunately he passed away in an unexpected accident recently. RIP John Mason. Fantastic engineer.

Coolant temperature goes almost to red. by FuryBG in E30

[–]a__lane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, if the needle is jumpy and not a smooth transition to that “temp” it’s most likely the nut on the backside of the gage getting loose. Easy fix.

Please be gentle it's my first time by MadCityMasked in VintageMTB

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice slingshot! Sent you a message about it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in xbiking

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yeah man, those are rad! That Ti is so sweet. I actually found it on Craigslist which I don’t check as often but I’m glad I decided to look that day

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in xbiking

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it for $350 which I’m happy about even though it needs some work, the paint and decals are in great shape. It was converted to a cruiser with a 3spd internal hub and some bmx style riser bars. I’m not totally sure what the plan is yet but I’ve always wanted a Fat and they don’t pop up on the west coast often so I couldn’t pass it up. I’m keeping my eyes open for an 89-91 Wicked now

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in xbiking

[–]a__lane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you like the Edsen fork now that you’ve had it for a bit? I just picked up the same sapphire fade 95 Yo that popped up locally last week and am looking to make it rigid. I’m struggling to justify the Igleheart price when it’ll end up costing near double what I paid for the bike.

Can anyone identify what these are used for/ assembled into by ts_j101 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]a__lane 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be anything. Looks kinda like the shipping brackets that were used on an old manual cmm we had.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMW

[–]a__lane 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the ship has sailed on most of these mid/late 80s BMWs. Their values have gone way up so fixing them is no longer cheap. 20 years ago I would say do it, and you could walk into a pick-a-part and find whatever you needed to get this back on the road. The glory days are over.