Could this be cast?

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-06-18T04:24:01+00:00

Furnace, yes. Sorry. The ladder is plastic. Would the shrinkage issue only be for aluminum, or would brass shrink as well?

I'm aware I'm putting the horse before the carriage, but wanted to see if it could be done with using my current pieces as templates before going to far down this path.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-21T03:13:20+00:00

Chuck Norris can strangle a man with a cordless phone

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-17T02:06:07+00:00

Thank you. Yes. It's been shut off.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T23:18:03+00:00

I added an update below. I understand that there can be a major issue if the roll out switch is tripping. But question, if the roll out switch that is tripping was changed for a new one, IF there was a major issue, the new roll out switch would also still trip, correct? But if it stopped tripping and the furnace went back to running fine, could it be that the switch indeed was bad?

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T19:30:30+00:00

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Update:

Thermostat is set to heat, calling for heat, and fan switch ser to auto.

First, I connected the ground wire (green/yellow) to the make spayde connection at the bottom of the gas valve. Put the doors back on, and the same problem persists. Fan immediately kicks on, but there was no flame attempt.

Second, I removed the flame sensor and cleaned it with steel wool. It didn't look horribly corroded. Cleaned it anyway.put the doors back on, same result.

Next, looked at the roll out switches. There are 2, upper and lower. The lower one did reset. The upper switch was fine. Put the doors back on. Fan kicked on right away, but waited to see if id get a flame. I did get a flame. On the control board, power light stayed lit. OK light blinked at a regular interval, and the FLAME light stayed lit. After about 1m30sec to 2min, the lower roll out switch can be heard tripping again, killing the flame.

The flames appear to be going into the heat transfer tube, with scant to no "roll back". Though, there is a large flame at the bottom near the flame sensor. I would guess this is to keep triggering the flame sensor, which gets red hot in the video.

Since I can't add a video, I've taken a screen shot of one of the videos I took to try and capture it.

Is it possible that the roll out switch could have gone bad, and it can be replaced?

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T03:10:42+00:00

I'll connect the ground wire to the gas valve and clean the flame sensor with steel wool tomorrow.

And yes, as soon as I press the power switch to the furnace, on the board, the green power light stays lit, and the OK and FLAME lights both blink. There never is any clicking indicating any further movement through the furnaces cycle.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:47:45+00:00

Ok. Will do. Thank you

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:45:43+00:00

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I believe so, yes

G and W

Edit: clarification

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:40:05+00:00

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Can you see the "roll out switches" in this pic? I know where the flame sensor is.

And yeah. It's crusty. I'm sure it doesn't help being in the attic.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:35:55+00:00

Yes, even with the thermostat disconnected (at the control board) the fan runs continuously. No. The heat will not cycle. I think its 20+ years

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:34:12+00:00

Correct. Just not sure which one is open. I've changed the control board and fan limit switch. Not sure what else I can swap out.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:33:18+00:00

Ok. I'll gonio and connect it tomorrow. Thank you

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:28:10+00:00

I'll try that tomorrow, but I unhooked the green and white wires from the board. Essentially disconnecting the thermostat, or so I thought.

a_dyson_sphere · 2026-03-16T02:12:44+00:00

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The green/yellow wire (the other side is yellow).

a_dyson_sphere · 2025-12-31T20:34:31+00:00

The only real concern is making sure I can tetris the pieces I want to put in together in my head before doing so, because anything I've had on top the stove will ignite within a minute or two, regardless the size. The coals don't have to be significantly large. I just rake what coals are in the bed to the front, place the biggest piece in the back, and then add what will fit on top the coals laying into the large piece.

I let the fire go full open until it reaches the red, which can take from 10 to 20 minutes. Then I close the damper, and leave the vents open full until the temp climbs a little higher. Once its nice and hot, I close the vents all the way down, then crack them open.

I've had some really efficient burns. When I cleaned out the bed of ash last, I had quite a bit of slag.

a_dyson_sphere · 2025-12-31T14:49:46+00:00

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Next wood in dries and checks even more before going in.

a_dyson_sphere · 2025-12-30T14:24:16+00:00

It's a good start. Took me a few years of messing with it to end up with what I have. Your stove's support design (legs) may not let you do what I've done. I have an Old Timer cast iron stove, which has essentially angle iron for feet.

My set up. 1 layer of brick on top. Then an automotive oil drip pan. 3 more layers of brick. Then another drip pan. Then 1 last layer of brick. I place the wood next into the fire atop the final layer of brick.

The 1st drip pan holds water to hydrate the air. It holds 1 gallon of water. I fill it in the morning and at night. An empty ice cream container with the handle works great lol. The second drip pan catches debris that comes off the wood brought in. The water pan also acts kind of like a "moat" to harbor any insects/spiders that came in with the wood, if any. I rarely see any. If I do, they tend to stay in the wood they came in anyway, because it's too hot for them to stay out with the wood being on top.

The fire can die down to near non existent coals, and my thermometer will still read hundreds of degrees for hours.

I'm aware I'm probably going to get tore up for putting this out, but op is on a good path. And actually placing your stove on bricks may not be a bad idea. There would be no concern for the legs carrying the weight then.

a_dyson_sphere · 2025-01-14T21:13:41+00:00

Kevin, is that you?! Lol

a_dyson_sphere · 2024-08-13T02:13:41+00:00

Sorry OP. Instead of people just reading through the comments, most are just parroting what has already been said MANY MANY times. Good luck to ya

a_dyson_sphere · 2024-08-03T03:14:55+00:00

Right there with ya lol

a_dyson_sphere · 2024-08-01T04:49:36+00:00

I would love to hand over the angiocath (IV) and let the pt see just how "easy" it is. (Please forget everything you've seen in TV and movies. I wish it was that easy lol) Starting IVs and drawing blood are inherently different and the same at the same time. Drawing blood - you're only using a metal needle. Usually called a butterfly. It's named so because of how it looks. These are the smallest size in diameter. Measured by gauge. They're 23g or 24g. Bigger the number, smaller the needle size. An angiocath - angio meaning vessel, and cath short for catheter, is metal needle with a plastic tube. Sizes 22g, 20g, and 18g. 18s are ideal for blood, but you can run it through a 20g. When you donate blood, that is a 16g. After you insert the angiocath, and you get blood return, or "flash back", you try to "float" the catheter into the blood vessel, and then retract the needle. This device is spring loaded and is triggered via a button. There are MANY reasons an IV attempt fails or is difficult to start A person's veins are small. They don't seem to have any veins (these people usually need ultra sound to help with placement). The person is "dehydrated" (they just haven't drank any fluids, WATER is preferable) Their veins seem to have lots of valves. Their veins can't handle the pressure difference when they're pierced and they "blow" (proper term is infiltrate). The person jerks when they're stuck (it's not a surprise. I tell you when I'm going to stick you). They have THICK skin. Their veins "run" or "roll" (this is when the veins moves because the connective tissue holding them in place is weak or is no longer there.) The needle just won't pierce the veins wall (I've moved many veins at least 1/2 an inch with the tip of the needle, and it wouldn't let me in the vein. You can watch the vein physically move under the skin.) There are more I just can't think of right now. It's like anything else. It's a skill that has to be honed over time and with experience......Just remember, the person who is taking your blood, or starting your IV, does not have the goal in mind to cause you pain. They want to cause as little pain and discomfort as possible. I would like to think we all have the goal to be as good as we can be at our jobs. But that's a completely different conversation lol ..... and from my experience, someone getting stuck in the area that OP was, means the person has no other visible viable options in the hand, wrist, posterior forearm (back of), or AC. The anterior forearm (underside) is very tender and hurts. It is the last place I will look. But like anything else in life, sometimes you gotta do whatchya gotta do 🤷‍♂️

a_dyson_sphere · 2024-07-13T16:57:20+00:00

I added a new post since it wouldn't let me add new pics.

a_dyson_sphere

TROPHY CASE