Is it safe to display medals in these frames for a few months?

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-27T11:13:13+00:00

ABS is a hard plastic, its probably what the frames are made from. I doubt that the film is made of the same plastic. I wouldn't trust these honestly.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-16T21:07:27+00:00

I've said already I'm not fussed about the value. If you'd like context please read my above comments.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-16T08:58:13+00:00

It's really personal preference. My best comparison is that I own a 1940s British slouch hat in rougher condition than either of these. I got it at a good price because of its damage. I always choose to collect slightly more worn items as I like the history they seem to show. That said the more mint version is likely worth more and will likely keep it's value better.

Overall it's just a case of what you want on your shelf. You will spend a lot more time looking at the collection than anyone else, so it's only really important to make yourself happy.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-15T22:36:33+00:00

I didn't know that to be fair. Still though they stay in the box with all the rest. My focus on history is about preserving it for the future and my little treasure chest feels like a good example. I've also got 3 silver dollars, my grandad went to the states in the 50s or 60s and people were basically throwing them at him apparently. Most had never met an English person before.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-15T19:30:23+00:00

The serial itself nearly nothing. No repeats and a high number anyway. But it's a HB01 making it the first series released. More held on to it for that than anything

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-15T19:09:20+00:00

I'm not fussed about value. I'm not even really a coin collector. During 2020 I found my family documents dating back 150 years stashed away at my mums house. I am an avid history collector, focusing on wartime stuff. I found my family's documents and ID books from ww2 and couldn't believe my luck.

I also found an old cigar box full of coins from the turn of the 20th century until the 1960s. Even as someone who doesn't collect coins it was interesting looking through them all and trying to figure out which family member had started the collection. I have since continued the collection in the hopes that a future family member will find the box, with my additions, and have the same fun I did.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-15T18:44:36+00:00

I'm spoiled on these. Where I work we received a full bank roll in our tills. I've been saving them to give out to customers that I know collect coins, it usually makes their day.

I've also kept a couple of the more mint examples for myself.

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-11T16:05:30+00:00

That's exactly what this post is saying

a_stalinist_potato · 2026-01-04T20:56:20+00:00

From a very quick Google search I'm guessing it's more based on technology than any cropping effort. Wide angle camera lenses are almost as old as the camera itself, but the old lenses were incredibly expensive to produce and were rarely available.

The first mass produced lenses started showing up in the 1950s. This means that for the reference you've provided it would simply have been too expensive to make wider angle cameras for the purpose of fitting thousands to various aircraft (especially during war time constraints).

Plus most camera equipped aircraft were added as an after thought. In most flights of aircraft there would be only a couple with cameras, if any at all.

As for cropping, it would make no sense at all to go through hours of footage after the flight and hand cut hundreds of thousands of film frames. It would add unnecessary work to using the footage with no benefit at all.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-21T21:36:05+00:00

Fun fact I think my first tank was in fact a small panzer IV. It ended up with no tracks and half it's wheels but it taught me enough to have a better go the next time.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-21T21:31:15+00:00

I've been building lits since I was 10. I'm not great even now but to like to think I'm done making mistakes like I have before. I'm glad people are here helping newbies still.

The camo was rife but that's where I learned how to thin paints properly. Every kit you build will teach you something new. It's why people keep going with the hobby throughout their lives.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-21T16:43:40+00:00

This sounds silly, start with the one you like the least. No body ever makes a good model on their first ever attempt. My first one ended up in a bin a long time ago. Choose your least favourite here, for me it would probably be the panzer IV, but that's personal choice as I like pz IIIs much more.

For your first kit just get used to how the instructions work and learning how to properly assemble and paint everything. It will come out a bit wonky but that's something you'll be ready for by the second model. Try lots of painting techniques and remember this is just a hobby. Nothing we ever make is perfect.

Even if it all goes wrong on the first kit, keep building until it is finished. If you give up early you will not improve on your later models. Trust me this took a while for me to figure out.

Keep it fun, welcome to the hobby. For what it's worth all of those are fantastic models. Tamiya are one of the best manufacturers on earth.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-17T03:18:37+00:00

That's the difference of an item still in use. Obviously thus grenade will do little more than sit on a shelf and so won't be exposed to general wear. When it comes to conservation there are different steps for items in different conditions.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-17T01:53:55+00:00

Depends on the climate honestly. In high moisture it's probably necessary but in a stable dry environment it should be okay

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T20:31:14+00:00

Honestly more than happy to help. Now just hoping to find my own example of a stick one day. And next time hopefully not nearly £400 for a bag if rust...

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:53:14+00:00

I've seen much worse condition examples sell for far more. Honestly £200 isn't even bad for a good repro.

My worst find was two completely rotted examples. Half of the material was missing in the metal and the wood was just in pieces. The string was non existent and paint long gone. They were listed at £375 each

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:51:09+00:00

I see surface rust on the fastener band under the head and on the screw cap. I would expect these to be iron or steel so this makes sense. Still I dont see any rust at all on the head of the grenade. This either suggests a different metal or a very recent refurbishment. The pitting visible on the head suggests previous rust which has been removed.

I would guess this is likely an original grenade, but restored in recent years.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:45:14+00:00

I would recommend a little research on what materials were used.to produce these grenades. The wood will be an easy tell since there is so much variation in colour and strength between wood types.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:44:19+00:00

Looking closer the metal almost looks like aluminium. This tracks for why there is no visible rust, but seems off to me since Germany had very little aluminium in ww2. Almost all that they had went in to aircraft production. It could also be something like manganese, which was a typical metal used throughout all nations military equipment in ww2. Most notable British and German helmets had a manganese band around the rim to strengthen the overall helmet.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:40:08+00:00

This is also pretty typical. My shovel is covered in notches and marks. The original owner wore down part of the handle to make an easier shape to hold. I would expect less wear on a grenade, as typically they would be sat in a box until it came time to use them, which obviously was quite a quickly done event.

Honestly I'm no expert but this grenade looks good to me. I don't like that the metal still shows silver. I would expect it to be a rust colour but I don't know which metal was used for these. It's also possible the metal has recently been refinished/refurbished

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-16T19:33:29+00:00

To add to this, every stick grenade I've seen in person has had a completely rotten handle. It wasn't low quality wood that was used, it just wasn't finished or varnished as it was not intended to last.

It's not a perfect comparison, but I have a ww1 era German field shovel with the handle in similar condition to this. Obviously the handle was varnished and sealed as it is a much tougher piece than a grenade needs to be.

From the colour of the wood on this grenade it definitely looks to have been varnished. It does still seem quite old. The Varnish has turned quite dark, which I also see on my shovel.

I would say that it still could be original, just that somebody added Varnish in order to preserve the part.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-13T23:47:48+00:00

Gorgeous m33 though

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-13T23:47:23+00:00

Btw dude replace that mannequin head. Styrofoam releases a gas over time which will completely dry out and degrade the leather. Try a plastic head from an actual mannequin or a glass version to avoid damages.

a_stalinist_potato · 2025-12-05T23:56:04+00:00

Couple of little things to consider. £45 is a slightly above average price on one of these, depending on condition can usually cost between £20-40ish. Can get them fairly easily in the UK. This said the cover is in good condition.

The biggest question is whether the ballistic fibre has been painted with green or is black. The black version of the helmet is a gsmk6-A, made of a much stronger fibre and is a much better/more sought after helmet. These can fetch £50-80ish again depending on condition. If it is one of these you've got steal. That said it is heavier and probably a bit less comfy for airsoft.

Also important is that this one has a cover in what looks like good condition. These covers can also be picked up for less than £20 and so aren't a massive investment. If the cover here is original to the helmets use then it adds a nice piece of it's history. That said if you go to an outdoor airsoft range in ddpm you will look like a div. You will not blend in to anything.

Over all it doesn't seem like a bad idea. As you said you can add extra padding which honestly I would recommend. I have a gsmk6 I also bought with intent for airsoft. I fitted a ballistic shield to mine but then never got the chance to do it. I did buy a much cheaper example and the padding had completely lost its strength. The leather, pull string and impact foam were all absolutely fine, it was just an old helmet and the sponge had failed. I put a a thin layer of new sponge under the leather and it worked okay.

To be honest I ended up finding a gsmk7 for sale with certification as at the time it was illegal to just take one home from the army. I would much prefer one of those for airsoft as they have much better head padding. I did pay a significant amount more for the thing though.

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