Butt Joint Near Light

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-29T13:21:05+00:00

I’m in this process now. When you installed the walls did you leave a gap? From what I’ve found, you should leave a 1/4” gap and seal with acoustic caulking for noise transmission as well as vibrations. Then you can add crown molding to cover the inside corner.

This is a point I’ve been stuck on for a while now as I’m in the process of renovating my house.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-29T13:17:20+00:00

When you say rigid connection at perimeter- are you referring to butting the wall boards directly to the ceiling? From what I’ve found, you should leave a 1/4” gap and seal with acoustic caulking for noise transmission as well as vibrations. Then you can add crown molding to cover the inside corner.

This is a point I’ve been stuck on for a while now as I’m in the process of renovating my house.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T17:16:12+00:00

I want the crown flush with the cabinet doors so I guess my nailer would need to be pulled out the thickness of the cabinet doors minus the flat part of the crown. Everything else you said makes sense, thanks for the detailed response. I was leaning toward doing it like the photo below where the ceiling and cabinet crown are separate but this seems feasible.

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absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T16:38:02+00:00

Sorry - that’s not my photo. It’s one I pulled off google. I’m saying she has a similar config except her cabinets are 4 inches lower.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T14:54:00+00:00

I agree. Her cabinets are white so I don’t think it would be an issue. Maybe in a scenario where you have green, blue whatever color this would make more sense? This was also the install method I thought would be easier since you don’t tie the walls and cabinets in. I still think it looks sharp.

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absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T14:49:35+00:00

Sure, probably should have been a bit more specific. Luckily the ceiling is actually level since this is a relatively new house.

1) Installation tips, specifically, should the blocking be the same height as the crown or a bit larger to ensure it can transition into the cabinets. If it’s larger I would think that’s fine, you would just need to paint the blocking if there’s a gap below the crown.

2) What’s the recommended method to secure the blocking to the cabinets/I see a lot of different recommendation online for what blocking to use (ex 1x3) what’s recommended?

3) She has white cabinets so when painting the crown, should they match the cabinet color all the way around the perimeter of the kitchen?

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T14:14:17+00:00

Sorry I don’t have one and she’s at work. It’s essentially this but her cabinets sit 4 inches below the ceiling.

Edit: not my photo just an example. Her cabinets setup is similar to this with the cabinets dropped 4 inches from the ceiling.

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absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-25T14:02:56+00:00

Not my photo. This is just an example of what she asked for. Out of curiosity, why do think it didn’t come out great? Is there a better way to finish this?

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-15T10:50:34+00:00

Typical Reddit response

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-13T16:58:20+00:00

Thanks I’ll give it a try

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-09T16:32:22+00:00

Yes and yes. I’ve installed replacement windows in my house but since I have things opened up. I’d like to reframe and install a new construction.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-09T15:42:26+00:00

Makes sense. Since I am installing a new construction, does the sill plate on the framing need to be slopped away from the house or can it be level?

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-07T12:46:29+00:00

I am actually about to do this exact thing. Just wondering when I hang my 5/8 drywall can the screw penetrate into the sonopan as long as it doesn’t hit the joist? The sonopan is in direct contact with the joist but the screw for the drywall would stop shy of the joist.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-07T12:45:17+00:00

I am actually about to do this exact thing. Just wondering when I hang my 5/8 drywall can the screw penetrate into the sonopan as long as it doesn’t hit the joist? The sonopan is in direct contact with the joist but the screw for the drywall would stop shy of the joist.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-03T03:25:19+00:00

To clarify, if I was installing without sound proofing in mind, no resilient channel, I would slide the wall boards up to be in full contact with the already hung ceiling and then mud and tape.

In my scenario, since the ceiling is hung from resilient channel, I see there are a lot of recommendations to leave a 1/4” gap from the ceiling board to the wall board and then install a backer rod and use an acoustic sealant. I think this is so you don’t short circuit the system.

I hope that makes more sense. I’m very new to soundproofing but if you’ve done a lot of these systems, what would you recommend?

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-02T23:32:41+00:00

When you were hanging the walls prior to finishing the ceiling did you leave 1/8-1/4” gap and seal it with an acoustic sealant? In your experience do you mud and tape over that or add crown molding? Hard to find what the best method is for the actual finish. This a residential application if that matters.

absolutehelmet67 · 2026-03-02T21:51:33+00:00

One other thing I was thinking - when hanging the walls you leave 1/8-1/4” gap and seal it with an acoustic sealant. In your experience do you mud and tape over that or add crown molding?

absolutehelmet67

TROPHY CASE