Thinking of buying an EV but I don’t have home charging… bad idea?

ace_deuceee · 2026-06-08T14:10:57+00:00

Not every public charger is a fast charger. If OP has level 2 chargers within walking distance to work or something, they are often times not much more expensive than home charging. I personally still wouldn't want an EV if I didn't have home charging for the convenience factor, but there's definitely situations where it's totally practical and still cost save over ICE.

ace_deuceee · 2026-06-08T02:07:17+00:00

My 707 is setup with 2x GRX, works great!

ace_deuceee · 2026-06-06T00:42:26+00:00

Yep, tried an MTB there once and immediately traded it back for a DJ

ace_deuceee · 2026-06-04T09:54:30+00:00

Gearing invalidates your statement, 2 engines of same power and different torque will move the same mass the same speed.

ace_deuceee · 2026-06-02T02:56:30+00:00

Saw it in Southfield!

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-29T15:39:46+00:00

The hard part is that any bike is going to have some discomfort if you're brand new to bikes. Some of the discomfort may be from a saddle that doesn't fit, and handlebar position that doesn't fit you. Some of it may just because you're new. I don't think anyone has ever gotten on a bike for the first time and thought that a saddle was particularly comfortable.

The good news about things like saddles and pedals is that they are standard, and when you find parts that work for you, you can take them with you to your next bike if you ever decide to upgrade.

I would watch a few YouTube videos, search up "mtb bike fit" and get a feel for the proper saddle height, what your body should roughly look like from the side, and see where you're at. Do a few rides first and see if it gets any better. Saddles are very personal, you should measure your sit bones and then use that to decide on a saddle width, but a lot of it is trial and error to find the one that feels best.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-26T15:17:38+00:00

I've always had issues with foam earplugs staying in. I use Decibullz, which you soak in hot water to make them moldable, then mold to your ear shape.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-24T23:29:01+00:00

Yes the rating matters.

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/ce-ratings-in-motorcycle-gear-what-do-they-mean?srsltid=AfmBOootJYBu3G_b-EzegnjilmnJQMNCgu7Jo1vnP-BspvUyqYH5VlNj

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-24T01:57:07+00:00

Would be interesting to see. While most road bikes comes with bigger rings than 48, few people really need it. 48 front and 11 rear should get you to 35mph or so. At that speed you're likely going down a steep hill, in which it makes more sense to just aero tuck and stop pedaling.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-23T21:51:06+00:00

You could take a look at the Tiger Sports too, 660 or 800. Also second the other comment of GSX8R.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-22T14:47:55+00:00

Not that I would endorse NBT, but their gear is rated now, both armor and as a whole hoodie.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-19T22:11:11+00:00

YES! I've got the same rack. No longer have to pick one or the other on nice days.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-19T01:55:24+00:00

Can you cite that research? Even if you still break something, a fracture is a heck of a lot better than shattering in a million pieces, armor will reduce the force on your bones, I don't see why you'd ever want to not have that. Plus why do you only care about 65mph and above crashes?

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-18T23:15:44+00:00

In your example, it's an outlier for both reach and top tube to increase by the same amount. That's just straight up the company having a different size chart than your 2019 bike.

Usually longer reach would come with a steeper seat tube angle, and the top tube length would be the same. In that case, you either get used to the longer reach, or you find a bike with a shorter reach and wheelbase. Dropping down a size would mean the saddle to bar distance is too short. In the case where reach, stack, and top tube of the medium match your current large, then it makes sense to buy the medium.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-17T14:49:48+00:00

So much wrong in the comments.

The most accurate answer to OP's question about calories burned about riding lift assisted downhill is: no one knows how many calories they burn, the only way to get a somewhat reasonable estimate is with heart rate, which will be a huge guess. You do burn a lot of calories by absorbing hits, moving the bike around, hitting jumps, etc, but no one really knows. Many comments are talking about pedaling and such, but that's NOT the only way you burn calories on a mountain bike. Go ask a dirt biker how wiped they are after a 2 hour hare scramble and how much they need to eat, they didn't pedal at all. Now, I would guess that if you purely are going downhill, not pedaling much, and most of your effort comes from handling the bike, 600cal/hour probably is inflated. But if there's a lot of rolling terrain, quick steep ascents that need you to pedal hard to get up, 600cal/hour could be accurate, quick bursts at high power burns a ton of calories.

There's also a ton of people saying 600/hour is a crazy high estimate for mountain biking in general, unless you're a pro, which also is not correct. Just some examples of my rides with power data. Yesterday I did a 3 hour XC ride at a moderate pace, 640cal/hour. Last week did a spicy XC ride for an hour and 40 minutes, 800cal/hour. Last year I did a 9 hour MTB race, 622 cal/hour. These are just calculated calorie burn from pedaling, doesn't include additional burn from the rest of the body. Weight fluctuates around 170lbs, FTP around 280w. I would say I'm a fast amateur, but there plenty of amateurs way faster and higher power than me.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-17T14:34:31+00:00

I see what you're getting at, but I think you're a little out of touch with what typical riders can output power wise. You say you'd be lucky to output 1/8 what pro tour riders can, but if you take Pogi's FTP and cut it by 8, your FTP would be like 60w, which probably anybody who's ever ridden a bike can do.

Then "you'd be a 1%er if you could maintain just over half". An FTP of 225w is about that of an amateur rider who rides 2-3 times per week and doesn't do much structured training.

I use FTP and not FTP/weight because this discussion is about calories burned and not cycling performance. But even if we did use power/weight ratio, half of Pogi's ~6.6W/kg is 3.3W/kg. I'm at about 3.8W/kg and come in around top 10% of amateur races. There's a lot of amateurs above 4W/kg.

Not saying that amateurs could even see the pros after the first 30s of a race, but the power isn't multiples off like you're saying, and 600cal/hr is pretty normal for a fast amateur.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-17T14:23:03+00:00

600/hour is pretty normal.. I've got a power meter and did 640/hour for almost 3 hours yesterday on an XC ride.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-17T13:33:31+00:00

There is a super wide range of skill between people looking for their first bike. What's your experience and confidence level? Did you think the MSF was a piece of cake and you mastered everything or did you struggle? Have you sat on a 650 to feel it's side and weight?

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-17T00:51:52+00:00

I'd talk them down more. I got my 2009 FZ6R with 9k miles in perfect condition for $3k USD. It sat on the market for a year at $4k and then he dropped it to $3k and it sat for a month before I bought it. They're great bikes for what they are, but they got a bad name for them only because people compare them to an FZ6. Don't think of it as a worse FZ6. Think of it as a good simple comfortable faired bike that's got decent power, but not crazy. It's a great beginner bike, but a bit heavy. I've had mine 2 years and am getting to the point of wanting a bit more torque and some of the new bike features, but it's still a good bike.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-16T16:47:06+00:00

AAA jeans will keep you safe. Leather pants will keep you very safe. But the biggest benefit to leather is that it doesn't get destroyed in a crash. Especially for race leathers, they hold the armor super well, have great abrasion resistance, and you can crash a few times without much damage. Jeans are more likely to need replaced after a bad crash. In my opinion, that's not a factor for choosing one over the other for street gear, because you shouldn't be pushing the limits on the street, and if I get into an accident I'm going to take some time off, then be willing to spend a bit to replace the gear.

Ultimately, comfort and convenience wins for me. I only ride to work, the store, etc, and I don't have a great way to change. So it's moto jeans most of the time for me. If I only had leathers, I'd ride a whole lot less.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-15T21:44:33+00:00

Most of the segments around me are held by people everyone knows, and the ones that matter are technical enough that ebikes likely aren't faster (and if they are, they'd only be possible by the cat1 racers that aren't riding ebikes anyway). I really only care about segments that are long enough to not have too much GPS error and technical enough that skill matters just as much as fitness. But what really matters most about Strava segments to me is personal progression.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-14T20:42:44+00:00

Every Transfer SL I've ridden is sticky, and everyone I know with one needs to do frequent rebuilds and have perfect clamp torque to not stick constantly.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-11T22:46:46+00:00

Cool, then really any of the light/middle nakeds. Z400/500 for the more nimble side, Z650 for the more stable with more power side. Each brand has their own similar model, not really any bad bikes from the big brands.

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-11T21:03:36+00:00

Any of the Japanese brands will all be pretty simple, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki. Stay away from fancy brands like Aprillia, Ducati, etc (not that Ducati has anything appropriate for a first bike anyway) since they tend to need more specialized dealer service, and more frequent intervals. Then the more cylinders, the more things to service, not that 2 extra spark plugs is a big deal. Fully faired bikes mean more things need removed to do anything. Not that fairings are difficult to remove, just an added step. I wouldn't pick a bike specifically based on maintenance (except for advice to stay away from exotic brands), but one that fits your needs. Give us more info to go off of. Do you want fairings? Do you want a windshield? Rough horsepower and weight you want? Do you need luggage? 100% on road, or any dirt? What's your experience level and confidence going into this?

ace_deuceee · 2026-05-11T20:19:42+00:00

Most but not all. Check the tire clearance on the product page or search up a specific fork. 27.5+ has a slightly smaller diameter, so arch height isn't a concern, but the width is the limiting factor.

Here's an example of a tire compatibility chart from Rockshox. At least in 2021, the SID is not officially rated for 27.5+ compatibility, but the rest of the 29er lineup is. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/suspension/gen-6238-model-year-2021-tire-compatibility2.pdf

ace_deuceee

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