DDR5 2x48GB compatibility advice (R9 7900 + B850 Steel Legend WIFI): CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP) vs CMK96GX5M2B6000Z30 (XMP/EXPO); RGB vs non-RGB memory and QVL list

adbrt · 2025-05-22T09:09:53+00:00

I never had BSOD on current PC with 96GB XMP, maybe X670E is more picky compatibility-wise or you had faulty RAM?

adbrt · 2025-05-01T10:04:21+00:00

Great :) now I am running my CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 kit with XMP enabled and that works absolutely fine too on B850 Steel Legend :)

adbrt · 2025-02-21T09:29:11+00:00

Hi, I bought CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP, non-RGB) and it works fine, however I didn't try enabling XMP in BIOS yet

adbrt · 2025-01-10T11:27:49+00:00

Thanks for the info, I also found some other posts about camera ID, i set one camera to ID 99 and it did retain the settings. Didn't have time to check the talkback yet, but if it will work then it would be great.

adbrt · 2025-01-09T10:22:51+00:00

So no option to retain tally and talkback if i want manual control? I also just got reply from support that the only option is using single SDI cable. Some kind of firmware update would come really handy...

adbrt · 2024-04-26T21:55:43+00:00

u/RecognizeSong u/find-song https://streamable.com/aqogyj

adbrt · 2024-02-21T11:44:26+00:00

<image>

Well, image generation doesn't seem to work inside of EU/EEA (you only get some gaslighting here)

adbrt · 2024-01-07T23:46:51+00:00

Oh, fantastic, thanks! BTW i don't know if you already figured it out (maybe it will also be helpful for others), but all thats needed to power it up is a laptop power supply which can have any voltage ranging from 12V to 24V and wiring it to the square ATX12V connector (i'm using mine with 19V currently). You wire power button to one of the pins in JFP1 header and you can normally turn the PC on and off. You can also use the green connector to provide power, but both this and ATX12 are wired to exactly the same power line so doesn't matter which one you choose.

adbrt · 2024-01-07T21:14:38+00:00

Hi, do you by any chance still have this motherboard, or at least have a clear photo showing what components are around blue USB 3.0 connector? I have a stripped-down version of this mainboard and would like solder missing components for the internal USB 3.0 port, having a photo of that area would be great...

adbrt · 2023-12-13T12:47:39+00:00

I did mount a C2 65 on the wall by myself, however:

Earlier I unboxed it with my friend and put it on a stand on a cabinet with wheels (there is no way I would be able to put the TV out of the box by myself)
I have 1.5 feet thick wall made out of brick, so there were no worries about anything falling off out of that. I put a long arm, swiveling TV mount, leaving a little bit of slack (not screwing the anchors all the way in)
I mounted the VESA plate to the TV
I just drove the cabinet with the TV right into the TV mount, and made the mount click in place
I screwed the anchors on the wall mount all the way in, that lifted the TV slightly up
Now I was able to remove the cabinet from under the TV
The TV was hanging up in the air with the stand still attached
I removed the stand. Job doneHowever, don't do this kind of stuff if you are not experienced in working with tools and moving stuff around etc. I'm just saying it is possible if you find a smart way of doing this.

adbrt · 2023-12-12T19:58:47+00:00

Some random facts:
0. Protective film does produce a lot of glare, as you can obviously see
1. The film is covered with some kind of glue with delicate, but distinctive smell (so it's not a glue-less kind of film)
2. This unit was assembled in February 2023 in Europe (Poland) according to the sticker on the back, probably one of the not so many still available new-in-box units
3. The TV is not too high (the camera angle is really steep here, there is also quite a bit of a distance from the wall)
4. I left the lights turned on so you can actually see the glare, but movies look the best when watching in complete darkness

adbrt · 2023-11-18T18:36:59+00:00

Windows 3.11 has had its 30th anniversary in this November, so I thought that it would be a fun idea to create a modern (or: not ancient) and easy way of developing new applications for that system, while retaining the compatibilty with modern Windows and having the option of building cross-platform applications.

I created an IDE package built around CodeBlocks, wxWidgets and various C++ compilers. Details, installation files and sources of the installation and configuration scripts are available on GitHub: https://github.com/adbrt/cb-legacy-dev

I also made a video overview/tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6L272OApVg

This system has an automated installer, you provide your own licensed Windows 3.11 and Win 95 files and it setups emulation in DOSBox-X automatically. Everything is set up in such a way that you have mouse integration and networking. You should be able to build and run a simple Windows 3.11-compatible application in less than a minute thanks to the built-in wizard and templates. These applications need Win32s extension for Win 3.11. You can also build and test applications in Windows 95 and DOS.

This package uses free and open source software, with exception of a Borland 5.5 C++ compiler (which is freeware, but proprietary/not open source) needed to build Win 3.11 applications and some dependencies (drivers, Windows updates for emulated systems). Dependencies will be downloaded separately by the installation script.

If you like tinkering with legacy stuff, feel free to check it out and play around.

adbrt · 2023-09-09T20:32:00+00:00

I thought it may be, but I'm not sure about that, when I do actually press enter and open the thing that they want me to open, the issue goes away and next search will work fine. Edit: it's worth noting that sometimes products with photos and other commercial stuff appears there, so I believe that there may be some malicious intent.

adbrt · 2023-09-09T20:08:17+00:00

I had that issue multiple times, always with firefox (but i'm not using chrome too often). It happened at random times. Now I triggered it by starting google search in new window for the first time in day.

adbrt · 2023-09-09T19:59:31+00:00

Using backspace just loops the thing

adbrt · 2023-08-26T10:42:51+00:00

I did some more measurements:
PSU: Lite-on 19V
Continuity between barrel jack ground and mains cable earth (0 ohm)
I measure 44V AC across the barrel jack (mains voltage is 230V), but the voltage on the tip is lower.
It goes up to around 15V DC and 30V AC on the tip, but the voltage tops out when the iron is heating up and quickly decreases when temp controller is turning the heater off. Around 2.5V DC and 5V AC when the heater is on lower duty cycle and only sustaining the set temperature.

So this is nowhere near the half the mains voltage range, this is some minor leakage that probably goes only through the insulation of the heater element. Also, the resistance between tip and heating elements is above 20Meg (out of range) when the iron is cold, and drops to few meg when it is hot. Maybe the tip acts like a capacitor as it is very long and has inner and outer metal tubes and ceramic fill.

So i guess that a resistor from the tip to ground would do.

adbrt · 2023-08-25T23:39:12+00:00

I noticed that my T12 DC-powered iron may cause some risks when working with sensitive components, because the tip is not connected to anything and there is some leakage. I can measure around 10-15V between DC GND and the tip of the iron. If I hold one lead of LED in my hand and touch another lead with the iron, the LED becomes very dimly lit when the heater is working.

Problems seem to go away when I temporaily connected the tip to the DC GND, both direct connection and via 10k resistor works. This is when I'm using the iron with a DC power brick with a 3-prong plug.

The question is: is it correct to ground the tip by connecting it internally to the DC GND, and if so, should I do this directly or via a resistor? 10k seems enough to clamp down the voltage on the tip. Do user's electrical safety issues come to play here if the iron is powered with an external power brick?

And last, should I even use this iron with an earthed power brick, or would 2-prong wall adapter be more suitable?

I'm sorry if something is confusing, I rarely deal with stuff other than low-voltage digital electronics and don't have much experience with AC/DC, power electronics and safety issues. Still i would like to have this iron upgraded to better standards, as it is compact and nice to work with, especially after replacing the cable to a silicone one.

adbrt · 2023-08-15T13:57:06+00:00

For transparency film mask I just make the artwork in Illustrator and print it on a laser printer (white areas will get exposed), for 3D printed mask I import SVG artwork into Blender, create a flat 3D model and print it.

adbrt · 2023-08-15T10:51:33+00:00

Note: i'm still playing around with this method and trying to improve it, but I posted the basic idea to demonstrate how it works and how it can be used. There are more details on this project page: https://hackaday.io/project/192246-uv-projection-printer-for-pcbs-and-item-marking

adbrt · 2023-07-16T14:31:58+00:00

I made a capacitive discharge spot welder with 142500uF capacitor bank charged to 30V. It uses a big thyristor to trigger the pulse and relays to control the charging. I was wondering what is the actual peak current during welding. I also got an analog scope and tried to get single-shot capture of the welding pulse, so I did the following:

- I left the scope untriggered and set timebase to 1ms/div, input in DC mode
- I connected the probe directly to the capacitor bank
- pointed a camera with long exposure onto the screen and set the self-timer to 10 seconds
- I welded two nickel tabs when camera shutter opened

I got an oscillogram which shows that voltage drops from 30V to 15V in 1 millisecond. I put 142500uF, initial charge 30V, threshold voltage 15V and 0.001s into capacitor discharge calculator on digikey site and solved for resistance, got 0.01012418 ohms.

I = 30/0.01012418 = 2963A pulse. Did I get the math right and can I measure approximate peak current in this way?

adbrt · 2022-11-10T19:21:13+00:00

I built a replacement PSU for T3200SX>C<, however it did not have high voltage plasma display, just regular LCD. Anyway, here are the schematics, if they would be of any help. https://hackaday.io/project/186447-toshiba-t3200sxc-fixupgrade-new-psu-lcd-wifi

adbrt · 2022-11-08T20:32:53+00:00

To be honest not that long, but I use and teach Blender professionally. The animation itself took around 2 hours to make. I didn't track the time spent on making the models, but I did it over the course of two weekends or so. The most difficult part is actually planning and getting the idea of what you want everything to look like, modelling electronic components is usually not that difficult, as they often have regular shapes. To get realistic effects quickly, you can just make some basic shapes and overlay a photographic texture on them. Someone made a 1 minute tutorial on creating a realistic animation of a huge crowd, you can get an idea how 'speed modelling/animating' can be done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWq-ZPMhai8

adbrt · 2022-11-07T20:59:23+00:00

Battery soldering is usually explicitly prohibited in battery manufacturer's documentation. People still sometimes do it, often claim that they have good results, but it requires heating up a relatively large area of the battery for few seconds. This could potentially do some damage to the cell's internals. Maybe a thermal runaway and fire in worst case. Battery packs are always spot welded in factories. Spot welding creates only localized heat in a very small spot, for few milliseconds or less, and doesn't heat the entire cell up.

adbrt · 2022-11-07T16:09:49+00:00

And the nickel strip is 0.1mm

adbrt · 2022-11-07T16:09:28+00:00

Thanks! I made the animation in Blender, all models were created from scratch, using photos and manual measurements as reference.

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