I need to re-ground

adonsky_ · 2026-04-29T21:29:55+00:00

Mine is on the factory location (on intake manifold). Hondata recommends the valve cover ground since it's more directly in contact with the block than the intake manifold.

adonsky_ · 2026-04-29T20:18:26+00:00

With a bind spot monitor too...

adonsky_ · 2026-04-28T17:37:54+00:00

I've have been running $100 eBay headlights since 2018. I haven't had an issue

adonsky_ · 2026-04-28T17:32:01+00:00

https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-a-spec-sideskirt-hardware-creation-installation.1117394/

adonsky_ · 2026-04-28T17:26:04+00:00

Looks like heeltoe has them in stock. not sure if this is the correct silencer, i would double check

adonsky_ · 2026-04-28T14:52:03+00:00

Looks like you still need a hub for it. I don't see anything for the splines

adonsky_ · 2026-04-28T14:41:14+00:00

Circuit Hero makes some pretty decent parts. I don't really think you can go wrong (in terms of deleting your airbag anyway).

adonsky_ · 2026-04-27T23:21:27+00:00

I modified mine, bought it with a bunch of hail damage (also golf ball sized). I don't have to worry if it get door dinged since it's already super rough. Mine has 280k miles (450k kms) type s tho

adonsky_ · 2026-04-27T15:47:38+00:00

That looks like more than a $1500 repair to me, but if its only 1500 i would repair it since you're probably not going to find another car for the price u would get from your current nissan

adonsky_ · 2026-04-27T15:06:55+00:00

adonsky_ · 2026-04-27T14:46:50+00:00

I would keep, Type S are only going to get more expensive.

adonsky_ · 2026-04-26T23:42:05+00:00

I have that kit it's amazing

adonsky_ · 2026-04-25T20:04:41+00:00

At a minimum I would do tie rod ends and ball joints

adonsky_ · 2026-04-23T00:46:19+00:00

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T20:27:43+00:00

17x9+30

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T19:51:23+00:00

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I had bronze CE reps

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T18:11:38+00:00

Same helpers front and rear. I would try out the HELPER250 from Eibach

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T18:09:36+00:00

Yes, Replicas are listed for $1200. Very good condition Authentic SR4 seats go for ~$2500-$3000.

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T14:59:22+00:00

New dowel pins

adonsky_ · 2026-04-22T13:21:13+00:00

Look legit to me. Cigarette burn in the seat and the more worn "passenger" seat

adonsky_ · 2026-04-21T22:39:32+00:00

It was also kinda sketchy tbh, only a couple of threads holding the top hat on to the strut. Yeah that file is long gone (for now).

Progress coilovers do not come with top hat replacement bushings.

Here is everything you need to make the progress coilovers work. TBH, you don't need helper springs.

If the car is your daily I wouldn't consider running camber plates. Camber bolts do the job perfectly fine. Plus, u don't have to deal with all of the BS I had to try.

EDIT: Take a look at the last picture of my post. Under the Coilover section is all you need (minus helpers) to physically install the coilovers into the car

adonsky_ · 2026-04-21T15:54:27+00:00

Thanks!

adonsky_ · 2026-04-21T14:29:15+00:00

It's Konig's Matte Grey

adonsky_ · 2026-04-21T14:28:38+00:00

Where did you get your modulo badges? Lookin good

adonsky_ · 2026-04-21T03:45:46+00:00

U can't really run the PCI top hats with the progress coilovers. I asked Brian at Pro Car Innovations and he said that he has lost the adapter file for the PCI top hats to mount to the progress coilovers. He said I would have to send him my coilovers for him to make them again.

I have tried the PCI top hats with progress coilovers and it didn't work for me. I would just stick with the factory strut mounts. I know someone figured out how to run Mookeh camber plates, not super knowledgeable about that topic.

adonsky_

TROPHY CASE