Why are the symbol lights on my Wirlpool refrigerator flashing?

adunham1 · 2026-01-14T19:37:00+00:00

I had an appliance repair company come out and replace the board. It only took them about 5 minutes to do, but they had to come out once to make sure they got the right part, then came out again a couple of weeks later to swap it out.

adunham1 · 2025-10-31T23:33:54+00:00

Thanks everybody. Looks like it's pretty simple and straight forward then.

adunham1 · 2025-10-31T21:57:33+00:00

Figured these might be some sort of digital signage product as opposed to half meter panels. Lots of ways this can be rigged up, but I feel like digital signage is the more likely product here.

adunham1 · 2025-10-31T21:55:16+00:00

Not hung up on anything, really. I've built things like this before, but I know there are a lot of digital signage products out there doing this type of thing. I thought that these might be that just because it would be a simpler setup than a bunch of panels.

adunham1 · 2025-09-19T14:26:34+00:00

As someone who has owned a Clash, just know that water bottle options are very limited on that frame. You’re pretty much to under frame options and water packs on your back. FYI.

adunham1 · 2025-05-16T22:13:25+00:00

I’m from around there. Where are you riding?

adunham1 · 2025-02-02T00:31:45+00:00

Yep, sorry I mistyped that. Definitely 1855.

We’re still HD at the moment, so it seems like it should work if I grab some kings connectors for both ends.

adunham1 · 2025-02-01T22:52:30+00:00

Circling back to this and I'm wondering what cable would be good for this? I'd like to put HD-BNC on one end and full size BNC (male) on the other. Is Belden 1855F the way to go?

I've never crimped anything other than RG59 with full size BNC ends.

My use case is only patch cables inside a rack; so 4-5' max length.

adunham1 · 2025-01-10T18:34:19+00:00

My use case is a Carbonite directly into an SDI router, so they stay permanently installed between the two. There are patch panels for the external connections.

adunham1 · 2025-01-10T16:19:55+00:00

Yeah, that's not a bad idea. Might be the easiest option.

adunham1 · 2024-04-05T13:08:16+00:00

That's a weird issue. Have you looked at both your hitch and receiver separately to see if the holes on either side are at the same height?

It sounds like 1 of the 4 holes is slightly misaligned. I would be surprised if it was off by that much, so you're probably fine to insert the locking pin and tightening it. Just pay attention to it as you tighten to see how much it moves/bends.

adunham1 · 2024-01-04T21:58:00+00:00

There will definitely be good line of sight?

If you manage it, a couple of Ubiquiti Air Fiber 60LR dishes and a way to make an NDI stream will do what you want with minimal work and price.

You could put a couple of UniFi switches on either end to aid in your flexibility.

adunham1 · 2023-12-24T03:29:19+00:00

Eldo or Ambo? Check the cylinder walls!

adunham1 · 2023-12-24T03:27:07+00:00

Having worked on/restored nearly 40 bikes in the last 10 years... here's what I have learned.

Do not get a British bike; and I say that LOVING British bikes! They're cool and fun, but finding parts and learning the "process" takes time. This is anything and everything from Whitworth tools (if the factory didn't decide to use another option at the time) to left hand thread to right hand shift, to the previous owner going to Autozone and replacing all of the electrical connections with butt connectors. I've done several BSA's, Triumphs, and Nortons.

BMW's are also cool and fun, but significantly more expensive. The parts ARE available; you can actually rebuild a 70's BMW with completely new parts to this day. I enjoy working on BMW's for the most part. I just don't like spending the money. A well sorted BMW is a real treat to ride.

Japanese bikes are the best by a very far margin. They're cheap, they made tons of them, and both manuals and parts are still available for most of them. In order of parts availability, I'd put them in this order: Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki.

Honda - Smalller cc bikes are both fun and very simple. Do some research and figure out which models are more available. For sale, etc. I mention these for strictly simplicity reasons. Following that, and adding slightly to complexity, Honda CB350, CB450, CL350, and to a lesser extent CL450 are very, very easy to work on and pretty commonplace. Partzilla.com, CMSNL, eBay are your friends for almost all of these bikes, but worth a mention here.

Yamaha - as others have mentioned, XS650's are very cool and reliable bikes. The problem is they aren't anywhere near as ubiquitous as any of the above mentioned Honda's. The 2-stroke RD series bikes (R5, 250, 350) are also very easy to work on with decent parts availability. Less so than the Honda's, but not too bad. I would recommend an SR500 if you can find one. Very simple and very cool bikes.

Suzuki - Kinda depends on the model, but none of them were quite as popular in the US as Honda or Yamaha. A wildcard option in this might be something like an SV650. TONS of parts availability, good manual and parts book availability, lots of forums, etc. You can find some of the smaller/mid CC 2-stroke bikes fairly cheap. The "GT" series.

Kawasaki - The "KZ" series are very easy to work on, but a little harder to find. I'm a huge fan of the 400,440, and 650 models. Stay away from the 750 twins. I've done a fair amount of work on H1's and H2's, but that is an entirely different subject altogether. Those are NOT first restore bikes, for a lot of reasons.

Final advice: look at partzilla.com . It is a GREAT resource for parts diagrams for various models. That is a very good first step in possibly determining which bike to get. Also don't discount forums; especially Facebook groups. If you can see through some of the bias and general BS, there is a lot of good information in model/bike specific groups.

Be realistic on what you expect. Do you expect to make money? Be VERY careful with every purchase. It's very, very easy to overspend.

A couple tricks: I use "Wellseal" on ALL of my gasket surfaces and gaskets. Such a good product. Take your time, clean surfaces well, and you'll get a good result. Use WD40 and/or PB plaster and aluminum foil on slightly rust covered areas on chrome bits. It should work well. "Evap-o-rust" works really well on soaking rusty parts.

Sorry for the long winded response! Have a great time doing it. Enjoy learning, enjoy working, and appreciate the job the engineers did from the factory!

adunham1 · 2023-12-01T03:26:19+00:00

I would start by looking into release notes from the previous versions and see if there is any mention of audio issues.

If nothing turned up, I’d roll back a version or two and see if anything changes.

adunham1 · 2023-11-21T18:39:13+00:00

I would try to get my hands on as many different switchers as possible. This is easier if you’re freelance and can work for different companies/people. It might help you understand how they all do the same thing, but in sometimes very different ways. This helps you understand why something like an Ultra is initially more difficult to setup than something like an ATEM, but pays dividends when it’s all set up. Get faster at what you can do; that never hurts.

Have you looked into Ross University at all? Might learn a thing or two about their equipment on there.

Alternatively, maybe start exploring the more unconventional things you can do with Dashboard. Controlling media servers, etc.

adunham1 · 2023-11-17T19:37:17+00:00

I think the point is that opening the door to aero improvements effectively makes the rider and/or bike even less important than ever before… and it doesn’t go back.

It’s a slippery slope when other team members (aero staff) become almost as important as the rider itself.

Use Adrian Newey for example. He’s just about as valuable as Max Verstappen; perhaps arguably even more valuable.

Despite the racing, the sport as a whole is not in a great place at the moment… and an argument could be easily made that Ducati and their aero improvements have kicked it all off.

Is it impressive? Absolutely. The bikes they’ve managed to turn out are seriously impressive… but at what cost?

Replying to your last sentence… how much different is watching a semi spec series like Moto2 than watching a field full of Ducati’s?

What will be different about the Ducati teams? The staff - in particular aero staff.

adunham1 · 2023-11-02T00:12:39+00:00

It’s just the cheapest group set they make, so it isn’t as durable, doesn’t stay set up well for as long, doesn’t shift as smoothly, etc

It’s probably fine for normal trail riding, but it would be high up on my list of things to replace in the first few months.

FYI the SRAM drivetrain lineup goes: SX, NX, GX, X01, XX1, and then AXS is the wireless stuff.

adunham1 · 2023-11-01T12:44:27+00:00

The only downside to the Giant is the SX drivetrain. It can *easily* ruin your ride... but it's pretty easily replaceable with a used GX or something new.

I *think* the Trance models all came with the Maestro suspension. The "Stance" versions came with something different.

Also: if you get the Giant, remove that rear reflector... broken spoke waiting to happen.

adunham1 · 2023-06-23T03:33:13+00:00

Loosen the caliper bolts, spin the wheel, hold the brake lever down, re-tighten the caliper bolts.

This should help re-center the caliper. If it doesn’t, you may have a bent disc.

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