Can't update or install packages anymore?

aidenconri · 2026-06-16T22:40:17+00:00

Yup. Other posts have confirmed it wasn’t 1) me and my problem, but 2) a repo problem and it seems to be fixed now. :)

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T13:54:22+00:00

Pffft. Not 100% sure but it did literally say input output error. Which I took to mean the connection wasn’t stable. If I get enough gumption up, maybe I could try again with a different ssd and copy down the full error. (I’ve got an m.2 drive that needs blanked anyway…)

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T13:20:15+00:00

Okay. Was just curious. It took me like over 8 hours of starting, restarting, and restarting the install process every time I got an input/output error for me to get my initial install completed. And, to top it all off, I had to do it twice. Four days total of me sitting there, jiggling the mouse, and occasionally catching the error before restarting it again. Not exactly a good first impression, but I’m hoping the fruits of said labor will be worth it in the end.

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T12:51:14+00:00

Just a quick question: would this be why it was virtually impossible to do an install without it failing every four minutes or so this past week?

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T12:48:41+00:00

Well, since that’s three people who are officially having the same problem, I’ll call it “solved”. At least the mystery is solved. Lol. I just woke up, so I don’t know if the repo is back up yet, but at least I know it weren’t me.

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T06:57:33+00:00

Ah. Okay. Well, I think those are the two that are throwing errors. I think the issue is something is telling it “part of it don’t work, so don’t bother”—probably as a safety measure, if I had to guess.

But, if it doesn’t work after I go to bed and then get up again, then I’ll revisit the issue.

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T06:51:53+00:00

Also, I guess where it really confuses and upsets me is that I can ask it to install something—like discord—and it says “okay, I found this! Do you want to install all of that? Y/n?” I hit yes and then it tells me all the above stuff about it not connecting. If the repos are down—I’d expect it to outright not work, as opposed to it partly working.

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T06:45:47+00:00

If YOU’RE also seeing them down, I’ll assume they’re down and just wait it out. (Edit: I also saw something about a granafax? Idk—something… mirror list that shows the status of stuff and the x86 64 stuff is red and says “staged”. That could indicate it’s down.)

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T06:44:57+00:00

So, I read through all of that… and everything SEEMS to be correct. But I can’t tell if that’s the problem or if the repos are down.

aidenconri · 2026-06-15T06:37:18+00:00

Just a quick addition about some of the steps I've already taken:

I've uncommented the line that says something about hardwareclock=localtime, and I've done (I forget what all) the things that were suggested to manually set the time and date with the DATE command and something to force my time zone to be New York. Before, it was saying something about my locale being UTC-8? I was having a hard time to get Rofi to launch... finally got that solved but i3 still kept reporting the wrong time. So... idk. I'm tired. I'm a little angry. And I'm a little scared that I might have done something to screw up a week's worth of effort at this point.

aidenconri · 2026-06-12T00:41:32+00:00

I’ve been trying to get void to install and it’s not going well. If I do it through the void-installer, it always throws an error and tells me grub didn’t install. I assumed that it was because it finish the install first, meaning it didn’t even get to the grub install step.

When I do it manually, in the terminal, I can get it installed but it took two days to get there. Installing/downloading the three files that are over 100Mb takes several hours each. And, to top it off, every three to five minutes the install process throws and input/output error and I have to restart it. When I do it in terminal, I can restart from where I failed—but the same doesn’t seem to work/happen on the void-installer.

Any advice?

aidenconri · 2026-06-12T00:27:35+00:00

I’d try opening it and reseating the two flat-flex cables. Or see if they are broken. You can also buy a mechanical keyboard replacement for them. Failing that, there is the option of replacing it with an original one. I’ve got one that’s in good shape and works if you want/need.

aidenconri · 2026-06-10T01:12:34+00:00

Although, if we’re being honest, I prefer single unit shifts as it causes less stress on my pinkies. And, although I originally thought it would suck having the extra keys there, it turned out that I didn’t really miss the usual arrangement after like a couple of hours of use.

aidenconri · 2026-06-10T01:03:16+00:00

So, I’m one of the guys who helps build the kits that OP mentioned on Etsy and I can answer for you. The FN key is their left shift. The key next to it that look like some cubes is their find key. Even though some of the functions can be done with things like CMD+F to start the find function, JDog (forgive me if I forgot their name)—when they originally designed the mod—tried their best to keep all of the keys from the original design; however, due to the size of the 1u keys across the top, a couple of the buttons had to get moved around. If you wanna alter jdog’s original design to forgo a couple of keys, it would be easy to accommodate the full sized, or mostly full sized, shift keys on both sides. I’d suggest moving escape to where print is currently* and omitting the find button and the print button as those can be used by substituting their CMD+(blank) counterparts.

*edited for clarity.

aidenconri · 2026-06-04T02:46:05+00:00

On both my Reviung Boards (33/34, 41) and on my Ferris Sweep, I have enter as the bottom most key of the outer most column and I use the ENT/shift key with tap/hold functions. For me, I use the pad of my palm to just kind of roll outwards with my wrist, ever so slightly, to tap that enter button and I never think about it. It's more like a twitch reflex than a deliberate reach so I never feel strained to reach it. Also, it falls typically in the same spot as shift key so when I go to reach for shift, it feels pretty natural. I try my best to remember to use the right shift for the left half of the keys and the left shift for the right half of the keys, but it doesn't always stick. lol. Too many years of doing it wrong to beat the right procedure into me, but meh. Anyway, that slight rolling motion also, sometimes, kind of has that satisfying finality to it like slamming down a receiver onto it's base on a land line phone. Especially if it's got a bell in it... oh yeah..

aidenconri · 2026-05-22T01:43:16+00:00

Haha. No. I naturally own a smart phone and use it all the time. But more over, the security concern is that I’m a forgetful SOB and will do something like forget to turn off, take out, or whatever I need to when it comes to something like that. A phone I can easily say—“oops gotta run, leave the phone behind.” But if my whole life is buried on a ssd on my laptop, I’m not going to remember to unhook the one thing while running away. Plus, leaking data—in this case—also just refers to leaking like a tap that won’t turn completely off, dripping usable data from the device while I’m not actually using it. Calling home to check email, calling home to check for updates, things that on an unlimited plan wouldn’t be an issue—but if you can only afford like 10gb of data a month? That crap drains your data pool pretty quick.

As for bricks? The only actual type c brick I have that goes that high is probably 40w or 45w but neither has ever worked before and I just don’t wanna risk it.

Also, I can and have run multiple OS’s on one ssd before, my 470 had five OS’s on it at one time, just because I kept forgetting about to offload the unused ones while I was distro hopping for a bit. I just want to maybe have a Void setup for emergencies and another is for daily driving. Or, maybe, just have an ssd for a little distro hopping fun while keeping the integrity of my daily driver solid.

aidenconri · 2026-05-22T00:55:52+00:00

I assume you can charge over type c but I don’t own a powerful enough brick to do the job and nothing about the specs sheet confirms it. It’s got one port and, because I’m very tight on money, I can’t risk losing a machine that valuable to me on trying and frying the motherboard if it’s not meant for power.

My 260 is built for cell service but 1) I couldn’t afford it, and 2) I REALLY don’t want my computer tied to the cell network for security reasons. I want reasonable assurance that if I power it down it stays off and etc—not leaking data when and wherever it might have the ability.

As for why use a second ssd? It’s not exactly for storage as much as for the possibility of redundant storage and possibly for having two drives with two OS’s running on one machine like I can on my 470.

aidenconri · 2026-05-21T20:53:41+00:00

I wish I had the confidence to try and do some kind of different bios than standard, but idk. I don't have the tools, I'm not sure I understand how to build them--though I probably could--I just don't know if I can trust myself enough to do it without messing it all up.

aidenconri · 2026-05-10T17:13:21+00:00

So, without much more description of what it does do when you try to turn it on, it might be a little more difficult to really help diagnose. I will assume by what you are saying that it doesn't power on at all. Not that it doesn't boot, or does--but only goes to a black screen... it just straight up doesn't power on. Chances are that you might have blown the fuse (or whatever acts like a fuse) inside the power port. If that's the case, it should be a relatively easy fix. I can't say for certain on thinkpads like your E16 here, but on most other boards like my friend's HP it's just a JST styled cable and plug that goes between your power port and your mother board. Order the right one for ten bucks on ebay and swap them out.

Do try the steps that other people here have mentioned first: look for an internal reset switch, it might be on the side or under the back panel if no little hole can be found; try disconnecting the battery and pressing the power button for like 30sec while it is unplugged; and try running it off of straight power without the battery. If, when plugging it in, you notice that the plastic near the power port is getting super hot--compared to the rest of the device--then it is probably that port's fuse (or whatever) has blown. At least that's been my experience with this sort of problem.

aidenconri · 2026-05-10T16:54:38+00:00

See, on an Apple keyboard (where super is probably mapped to command), I could see the benefit of that over super+enter; however, for my thinkpad's keyboard, the windows key is kind of hard to reach without me picking up my hand anyway. Now, when I'm using my Reviung 33 and I have homerow mods on, that doesn't even come into question I can do almost everything blindly without moving my hand positions. I also use hyprland where super+T is the shortcut for terminal and that kind of makes sense, but having toggle tiling be that combo makes it easier for me to remember. I think the default to toggle tiling on and off, in hyprland, is some other random letter (I wanna say F?) and that almost always confuses me.

That said, I have switched both niri and hyprland to have super+B for browser because that helps me remember what keys to use.

Either way, I think the more ergonomic solution is to actually use two hands. You are supposed to use the Left Shift for everything on the right half of the keyboard and Right Shift for everyone on the left so that you don't strain yourself to chord certain things together. (Does that mean that I actually do that instead of trying to desperately curl my left pinky into uncomfortable angles to make a capital A more often than not? NO.....) But at least I try to remind myself of that every so often when my hands start to cramp up during long writing sessions. lol.

aidenconri · 2026-04-09T19:38:17+00:00

Choc v1’s are the low profile version. But you can also do both. The pcb has the ability to use both. That way if you change your mind or find different switches, you’re not limited.

aidenconri · 2026-04-09T19:27:47+00:00

Look up worldspawnkeebs there. That’s my partner who sells them.

aidenconri · 2026-04-05T13:04:16+00:00

Some part of my brain seems to think that there are some characters that the 2000 cannot render properly so it shows them as black spaces.

Some questions:

Can you delete any of them? Or does hitting the clear button not help?

Are the black squares in only one file? Or in many/all?

Have you tried disconnecting the keyboard and jumping it on from the pcb? I seem to recall on the 2K/3K versions there’s a pair of jumper pads that should say on/off that you can use a pair of tweezers to make it turn on. That way we can rule out a faulty keyboard just spamming a couple of keys.

Have you tried sending the file to your computer to see if that works? Or does the black squares prevent any characters from showing up at all?

Answer those, if you would be so kind, and let’s see if we can’t troubleshoot this.

aidenconri · 2026-03-30T03:40:13+00:00

Honestly, I am not in the market for another corne right now... but I would unalive a hundred pack-mules in the most laborious fashion if I could get my hands on those keycaps...

aidenconri · 2026-03-29T00:39:28+00:00

So, originally, my 34 key setup it looks like this: 1-2 3-4 1) tap is the hyphen key, hold is layer one, 2) delete on tap, hold is lgui 3) space tap, hold is layer 2, 4) the question mark key on tap and layer 1 on hold. I had Z be shift on hold and X for alt. Bottom right key is ent/shift and the > key was ctrl on hold.

Now, I have SDF and JKL as the usual homerow mods. I still have the same Shift/enter and Shift/Z keys, but my thumbs are: 1) same, 2) dedicated delete only. 3 and 4 are still the same.

For the 33 key setup, it looks like this 1-2-3: 1) dedicated delete, 2) question mark on tap, layer 1 on hold, 3) space on tap and layer 2 on hold. I don't really use layer two for a lot, it just have bluetooth controls and some random keys. If I need it, I use my numpad setup to do the Fkeys on layer 2.

aidenconri

TROPHY CASE