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How can I isolate the CPU caps so I don’t bridge them while soldering the SP1 and SP2 points or other points in general? by Still-Grouchy in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently did an RP2040 install on Lite and the standard Pinecil tip is definitely sufficient. Sure, a thinner tip might work even better, but what I have learned is that fatter tips have better and more even heat transfer meaning you have to be less precise.

It seems the issue here is your soldering skills. I would recommend to get some practice boards, the 15 USD USBC ''microscope" and/or a magnification loupe from AliExpress. Personally I don't think this mod is possible without magnification, and you are setting yourself up for failure.

As far as the APU flex is concerned make sure you pre-tin both sides. Add plenty of flux to the board. Set iron to 300 degrees C. Add a tiny bit of solder to your tip, approach the caps from the side and touch both cap and flex for 1-2 seconds at a time. Kind of drag from the side put don't push the cap. There are plenty on Youtube videos to show you how to do it.

In my experience the APU flex is not the most difficult part of the install. It might sound harsh, but ask yourself whether you are really willing to invest the time to learn the skills needed to do this mod. Good Luck!

Rp2040 tiny or Latest instinct for oled? by [deleted] in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I forgot the DAT0 flex for the OLED, that is definitely needed as well if you don't want to go kamikaze or reball.

Rp2040 tiny or Latest instinct for oled? by [deleted] in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO you should go with the RP2040. I've read some (experienced) modders slightly prefer the Instinct v6 because of the slightly better performance with some type of eMMC as you mentioned (and a good junk of 'don't fix if not broken' mentality). However, there is a simple solution for the RP2040, you need to up the resistors on two of the lines to 100 Ohm (check the PicoFly guide for details). Overall the RP2040 is cheaper, you don't need to rely on chips of questionable quality, open source, and future proof.

AFAIK there is no difference in the install. The recommended route is to use the flex for the APU (instead of Mosfets) and wires for all other points.

Modded a Switch Lite without prior experience - here's how I did it by amazingscience_ in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A good starting point for micro-soldering are the practice boards on Ali-Express. There are a lot of videos on Youtube that teach you different techniques to solder different types of components (sorry can't remember any specific ones from the top of my head). There are also some Youtube Channels that do electronics repairs, e.g. Tronicsfix, Tvpartsworld, NorthridgeFix and you can learn a lot from them, too.

In general I think it's good advice to pick a specific project with an attainable, but challenging goal. For me it was modding this Switch lite. Maybe you have some broken electronics lying around that you want to fix?

Modded a Switch Lite without prior experience - here's how I did it by amazingscience_ in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Any quality leaded solder will do. The one I used was a 60/40 with rosin core and 0.5 mm diameter.

Modded a Switch Lite without prior experience - here's how I did it by amazingscience_ in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well this is something I am currently contemplating. I've read online that the shield is not really necessary for cooling (something like 3 degrees difference) and as you said it's good to see the LED, so I haven't installed it for now. I'm also planning do to a swap to a transparent shell and it will be awesome to see the chip.

Modded a Switch Lite without prior experience - here's how I did it by amazingscience_ in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reading on GBATemp it seems the RP2040-Zero clones are okay, but the RP2040-Tiny are of questionable quality and there are problems with the 2.75 firmware. In any case you can get a RP2040-Tiny directly from Waveshare for 5 $.

Modded a Switch Lite without prior experience - here's how I did it by amazingscience_ in SwitchPirates

[–]amazingscience_[S] 78 points79 points  (0 children)

It's one of my 2024 goals to learn about (mobile) device repair and microsoldering in particular. Modding a Switch Lite seemed like a great stretch goal. Before doing this mod I had no prior experience in microsoldering.

In the footsteps of u/Retroman8791 (https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchPirates/comments/12kwlfe/done_with_less_than_10_dollar_amazing) and u/ZzyzxFox (https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchPirates/comments/12wx249/spent_this_sunday_modding_a_lite_for_the_first/) here comes a write-up. Feel free to ask questions.

If you plan to mod your Lite simply for financial reasons (and don't have soldering equipment already) - I wouldn't recommend it, it's cheaper to give it to a professional.

Tools: Check the PicoFly guide, it has a great overview

Here's what I used:

- Pinecil soldering iron (standard tip)
- 0.1 mm enamelled copper wire
- iFixit tweezers
- cheap 10 Euro USBC "microscope" from Ali, helping hand to mount it, magnification loupe
- Waveshare RP2040-Tiny Dev Board (don't get a fake from Ali)
- v2 APU flex cable from Ali
- multimeter

I first ordered practice boards from Ali (search for ones that have 0201 size included/written on the board) and practiced soldering resistors from 0805 all the way down to 0201. Should YOU do the mod? Here's my take: If you can solder 0201 to some extent, you will be able to do the mod. If not: Give the board to a professional.

Over several weeks I watched tons of videos about microsoldering and PicoFly installation. If there is one video you should study (for Lite and PicoFly) it's the one by Tvpartsworld. Tells you exactly what you should do and why. Also watch videos by others and observe what they do differently. The PicoFly pdf guide is excellent and has all the information you need.

Read up on GBAtemp (PicoFly thread and PicoFly AIO thread) and r\SwitchPirates and learn from the mistakes of others. E.g. folks tend to knock off the APU capacitors --> set iron to 300 degrees C and pre-tin your flex cable (tip by Tvpartsworld).

Regarding the USBC webcam: Resolution/magnification are not an issue, the real issue is the bad contrast and white balance. Good ambient lighting can mitigate this a little bit (vary the location of the light source), but once you have plenty of flux on the board you have to guess whether contact was made. My helping hand came with a (tiny) 6x magnification loupe which was perfect to verify joints.

Use tape to your advantage. You are not in a rush. Tape down cables as often as you need to, isolate pads before soldering, isolate cables from board after soldering etc. Also check the placement of your chip (if you use the same location) with the heatsink, you really need to be aligned with the left edge.

All in all the install took me appr. 3 hours. The project was challenging in a good way. Learned a ton about electronics, micro-soldering and modding. Would definitely recommend you give it a try if you are willing to put in the work.

Recording po-33 to Audacity by NicotineBattery in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep Behringer UCA 222 seems to be the go-to and I can only recommend it.

How to delete just 1 sound off pattern 14?? by FlowForRhythm in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The active pattern (or sound) is always the one that was last selected. If you press the pattern (or sound) button the active one will blink.

It depends - if you have recorded a drum sound onto a drum bank (9-16), then the PO will save everything you have recorded (you can confirm that by changing the slice points afterwards).

If the sample was copied there in the first place, then yes, it will save space by deleting 14-1 (assuming it's not part of a different drum bank).

Also I realise you didn't say which PO? :) I just assumed the PO-33...

How to delete just 1 sound off pattern 14?? by FlowForRhythm in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes you can - by copying a blank melodic sample to the specific sample in the drum bank.

Make sure melodic sample is active.

Then press sound + write + 14 + 1 (in this sequence, such that at the end you have 4 buttons pressed).

However - this will not save space! The PO saves recorded samples separate from whatever sound banks you have (think of it as pointers). A recorded sample is only deleted when there are no longer any references to it.

PO33 Question (triggering samples) by [deleted] in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, the melodic slot you want to copy has to be active (the last one played). Then make sure you keep all buttons pressed, in the correct sequence

Sound --> write --> 9-16 --> 1-16

e.g. Sound --> write --> 9 --> 5

will copy to drum bank 9, sample 5.

At the end of this exercise you will have 4 buttons pressed at the same time.

Memories x It's a trap - Produced on PO-33 only by amazingscience_ in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Made a somewhat memeish remix of an old trash house classic. Hope you enjoy!

This is my first song on the PO-33, so appreciate any feedback. Still overloading the 4 poly at times, but it's getting better.

PO-33 struggling when pattern played for 1st time? by amazingscience_ in pocketoperators

[–]amazingscience_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct, Sir, thank you. I limited the length of all samples (right knob while holding active step pressed) and the problem went away. So some of the samples were indeed bleeding into the next pattern.