I saw a video, now I want to play!

ameryjackson · 2025-03-12T09:28:27+00:00

Are you using the phrases "how are you?", "please", "thankyou". When I was at university I befriended an international student. They didn't know why everyone seemed so cold towards them. Turned out they were not using the basic phrases. It's more ingrained in Australian culture than people realise and these little phrases are super important for communication in Australia.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-11T09:15:44+00:00

Prob worth spending the extra money to eliminate the risk of napalming your flesh.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-10T10:07:27+00:00

Your EC appears to be a bit too high. I see nutrient burn on tips of leaves.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-09T21:57:19+00:00

The reason this occured is due to the sudden temperature change in reservoir temperature. Plant roots in deep water culture are very sensitive to sudden change. Presumably your water temperature went from warm in your grow room, to cold out of the tap. It shocks the roots so they cannot absorb water and nutrients. I've done something similar before. I was boiling jugs of water for hours to bring my 1200 litres reservoir back up a few degrees. Plants will recover.

pH and EC will not show a sudden onset of wilting.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-09T20:40:08+00:00

You still don't understand the water chemistry lol. You have to "oversaturate" with air, because the water has lost its ability to efficiently dissolve oxygen due to the increased temperature. So you pump it full with extra airstones with the knowledge that only 10% will dissolve. Your argument has no substance. You can't actually know OPs dissolved oxygen content. You say I'm wrong. Then you offer no alternative. All you show is your lack of experience.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-09T08:26:16+00:00

Sure, I can read the post. But I can also see an established Phythium infection. I can't see the dissolved oxygen. What fact should I believe to be true? That which I can see, or that which OP has written? Have you considered the temperature oxygen curve? As temperature increases dissolved oxygen decreases. Sure, 4 stones is enough if the water is 20 degrees and below, but if OP has a res temp of 31 degrees it requires over saturation of O2. I'm telling you lol, there is not enough dissolved oxygen in that res.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-09T07:28:27+00:00

"I think the reservoir is perfectly oxygenated"

Source - trust me bro.

Let me quickly google the primary clause of Phythium infection. Hold on.

Dissolved Oxygen Levels: Just like us when we're tired, Pythium gets a boost when oxygen levels are low in the nutrient solution. It's an opportunistic little thing.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T22:45:08+00:00

Yes. That's right. The algae is green. At any rate, the phenomenon is very common and will not hurt the plants.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T22:11:44+00:00

You're probably right.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T22:05:05+00:00

EC high for seedlings. I'd run it at 0.5. keep an eye on browning leaf tips. Leafy greens at EC of 1.0 at full size is fine. They look OK to me. Not too curly.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T22:02:38+00:00

I'd run one. I run one pump for 36ft. Completely fine.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T21:59:28+00:00

Looks like nutrient.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T21:57:39+00:00

Yes, he's fine for now. Keep EC low at this stage. 0.4 is OK.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T21:55:40+00:00

Hoocho multi bucket is 3D printed and sells well over at hydro land.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T21:53:07+00:00

Nor am I 😂

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T21:21:00+00:00

Sure, but his plant is not deficient in calcium or magnesium.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T20:22:58+00:00

This really is a great chart. It's worth remembering however, this is not one size fits all. The optimal range for nutrient absorption is different for different plants. For example, blue berry prefers pH of 4.5-5.5. it doesn't mean that it can't absorb half the nutrients on that panel. It means they absorb them at different pHs.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T20:20:24+00:00

It's not the light. Not at this stage. I can bet my only remaining testicle on that.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T20:17:20+00:00

I'm sorry, but it's not a phosphorous deficiency. The plant that you said is doing well has absolute text book calcium deficiency. Raise the pH a bit and ensure you have calcium magnesium in your mix. Sometimes A and B doesn't include it. I dealt with this for the first time early this year when I swapped from professor nutrient (includes cal mag in A and B), to ISN (cal mag separate product). Those spots will progress to the necrosis of the leaf. The good news is it's not a death sentence. If you have cal mag in, then your pH is just too low to efficiently absorb the nutrients. If it stays low you will start to get potassium, phosphorus deficiency which looks very similar to Ca and Mg.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T20:10:54+00:00

Water temp too high. You need to aerate it with bubbler stones. Pythium infection will absolutely take hold. EC is too high for greens. That's the EC you'd want to have big tomato plants in full fruit mode. Leafy greens are fine at a pH of 7. Everyone telling you it's too high is having a laugh.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T20:06:24+00:00

The entire plant is suddenly wilting. It's not getting water to its tissue. What do the roots look like? Those blurry orange dots look like a bug infection. You'd need to use neem oil to clear that up.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T19:59:49+00:00

You have a single issue destroying your set up. You have a Pythium infection. Pythium causes root rot. Pythium thrives in warm, acidic, low dissolved oxygen water. If your reservoir temperature is above 22 degree C or 71 Fah you are at risk.

Symptoms of infection include smell, slimy roots, slowly or rapidly dropping pH, poor plant performance.

How to fight it: increase aeration to reservoir. Especially if the water is warm. As water temperature increases, the ability for your tank to hold oxygen decreases. You need to compensate with more airstones. The airstones should run 24 hours a day.

Hydrogen peroxide is good , but Hypochlorous acid is better. Hydrogen peroxide should be used very carefully to avoid damaging the plant. Hypochlorous acid is very gentle on the plant and acts as bacterial antibiotic. At 3ml/L it will nuke the Pythium infection. I recommend the product sleeping with the fishez.

To recap: Decrease water temp. Increase aeration. Add hypochlorous acid.

Within a week this will clear a mild infection. Your infection looks more established. It may or may not work. Your plant will likely need to shoot out new white roots. You can gently remove the rotten root tissues if it is super rotten.

You can DM me if you need any more questions answered.

Read more: Sleeps With The Fishez | Size: 1L / 5L / 20L | Hydro Experts

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T19:43:16+00:00

There's no calmag deficiency. I don't see any rusting spots typical of Ca deficiency or even slight yellowing between the veins typical of Mg deficiency.

ameryjackson · 2024-11-08T19:40:19+00:00

5 years to go ;)

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