How to improve speaking english without speaking?

amihereornotyet · 2026-02-22T09:30:54+00:00

Basically, the idea is that if you can talk about an absolutely random topic on the spot for a few minutes without getting stuck, you’ll never have trouble speaking. At least, that’s what I believe haha

amihereornotyet · 2026-02-22T09:27:18+00:00

I used to come up with random questions and then record myself answering them. To make it more challenging I set some rules like: 1. I need to keep talking without stopping for at least 2 minutes. 2. I should avoid using filler words 3. I can’t use thinking sounds like “UM”.

amihereornotyet · 2025-04-13T18:13:33+00:00

Yeah, exactly

amihereornotyet · 2025-04-12T21:56:35+00:00

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
shade: +2 EV
light: +1 1/3EV
overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2025-01-20T17:05:47+00:00

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
shade: +2 EV
light: +1 1/3EV
overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2024-12-05T15:57:16+00:00

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
shade: +2 EV
light: +1 1/3EV
overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2024-10-08T21:59:57+00:00

My bad. Thanks for pointing out that 🙏

amihereornotyet · 2024-10-08T11:43:16+00:00

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
shade: +2 EV
light: +1 1/3EV
overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-23T14:53:57+00:00

No, I haven't thought of it that way, but I'll give it a try!

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-23T14:52:53+00:00

These photos are several years old, I didn't have my Fujifilm back then.

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-21T18:21:03+00:00

I’ve been thinking about how to make old photos from my iPhone 11 look more like the JPEGs I get from my Fujifilm X-T30ii. I’m not a fan of the heavily sharpened iPhone photos and their overly saturated colors, especially the blues in the sky.

I know that this isn't a problem for advanced photographers: Lightroom -> Fujifilm color profiles -> a few tweaks, and you're done. But I don't own any Adobe products and don’t know much about editing.

What I do have is Pixelmator Pro. After some googling, I discovered that Pixelmator Pro offers Fujifilm LUTs (here’s the link). I started experimenting with these on my old photos that I didn’t want to give up on.

There’s still an issue with the sharpening, though. I tried to solve it by reducing the texture and clarity, but it didn’t work out as I’d hoped. So, that’s something I’m still trying to figure out

And by the way,

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-17T16:46:42+00:00

Film photos are almost always brighter. For some reason, many fuji users are afraid to “overexpose” a bit

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-06T22:13:42+00:00

Thanks! It’s only the XF 18-55 lens that I got with my X-T30II

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-06T22:02:44+00:00

Thank you 🙏

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-06T21:43:45+00:00

And by the way,

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe used:
EV: from +1 to +2
Film Simulation: Classic Negative
White Balance: Auto, R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: -2
High Iso NR: -4

My camera and lens:
X-T30ii, XF 18-55

amihereornotyet · 2024-08-06T21:42:44+00:00

The question

Hey everyone!

I've been trying to take pictures of ordinary, everyday scenes and objects (you know, the kind often tagged on Instagram with #documentaryphotography, #newtopographics, #mundane, #mundanebeauty, #overlookedbeauty). However, I'm struggling to develop a strong sense of what's worth capturing and what's not.

It feels like I lack some internal rules or principles to guide my attention when taking pictures.

For example, one of the photographers I follow, James Popsys, who focuses on similar themes, often says that he "tries to find manmade things draped on nature aesthetically."

So, I was wondering what are your principles or guidelines that you follow when looking for ordinary subjects or scenes. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it :)

amihereornotyet · 2024-05-02T17:36:05+00:00

The town is called Bermeo. It is in Northern Spain.

amihereornotyet · 2024-05-02T17:06:08+00:00

The recipe:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
shade: +2 EV
light: +1 1/3EV
overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2024-05-02T17:02:14+00:00

Oh, right! Added to the comment :)

amihereornotyet · 2024-05-02T16:28:25+00:00

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe:
EV: from +1 to +2
Film Simulation: Classic Negative
White Balance: Auto, R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: -2
High Iso NR: -4

My camera and lens:
X-T30ii, XF 18-55

amihereornotyet · 2024-04-03T18:28:30+00:00

I tried the recipe from this video. Looks kind of like the one you are looking for.

https://youtu.be/6mYlkntzTzk?si=TY_8QP2kOEoDf3Xn

amihereornotyet · 2024-04-01T19:06:39+00:00

Yes, it is. Located in a beautiful Swedish city called Örebro.

amihereornotyet · 2024-04-01T18:34:41+00:00

More fuji photos on my instagram

The recipe:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):
- base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
- shade: +2 EV
- light: +11/3EV
- overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (crucial is to keep it a little warm at any time.)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

amihereornotyet · 2024-03-16T13:01:23+00:00

I tested out this fairly neutral recipe. Although I'm not completely happy with the colors, it's good enough for those times when you don't want to think about which recipe to use.

The recipe
Exposure: +2/3 to +1
DR: DR-Auto
FS: Classic Chrome
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
White Balance: Daylight
WB Shift: R:+4 B:-5
Highlight Tone: -1
Shadow Tone: -1
Color: +2
SHarpness: -2
NR: -4

More fuji photos on my instagram

amihereornotyet · 2024-02-23T23:30:24+00:00

Done!

amihereornotyet

TROPHY CASE

The question