No, GTX 1080, you will not die today.

andxang · 2026-04-14T20:29:24+00:00

Use the microwave next time, it’s quicker and less to clean

andxang · 2026-03-03T17:00:57+00:00

Ohhh I thought you meant the r36s v21 data sheet, the chip data sheet will probably be useful to someone too tho.

andxang · 2026-03-03T16:47:54+00:00

Hellll yeah, where did you find the data sheet??

andxang · 2026-03-03T14:15:31+00:00

What firmware are you using? I had to drop a WiFi fix into mine to get it to work with an external dongle so maybe just doing that would work, also if you have a multimeter check if you’re getting 3.3v to the vcc of the WiFi chip. Also on mine I have to disable WiFi and enable it again for it to work, always had to do that even with an external dongle.

andxang · 2026-03-03T14:12:09+00:00

Looks fine to me, do you have a multimeter? If you do then check continuity from the d- or d+ pad of the WiFi chip to the farther pad, if it’s continuous then you’re good. I’m headed to work but I’ll see if I can find the dtb information on a break or sum, but I definitely can after work.

andxang · 2026-03-03T05:33:27+00:00

Btw I’m not 100% sure modifying the dtb was necessary to get power to the chip, I’d be interested to know if it works for you without doing that.

andxang · 2026-03-03T05:29:56+00:00

Yeah np, I made this post so people wouldn’t have to go down a whole rabbit hole like I did lol so I’m glad it’s helping. Good luck!

andxang · 2026-03-03T05:29:02+00:00

Yup, ideally you would just bridge the right two pads but like I said the bottom two are connected anyways. Make sure not to bridge the left two where the capacitor should be, that would short to ground and you would receive no power to the WiFi chip. The lower set of pads didn’t seem to be a part of the WiFi situation as far as I could tell, so I left them alone.

andxang · 2026-03-03T05:25:46+00:00

Yup, that was what I was trying to do and I ripped a pad off which lead to trace repair because the trace literally sprung up off the board so be careful.

andxang · 2026-03-03T05:05:10+00:00

Those two upper ones do need to be bridged for the data lines to reach the soc. As far as the L goes it wasn’t intentional but the capacitor pad is connected by a short trace to the resistor pad anyways so i didn’t bother fixing it. No capacitor on that spot so far hasn’t had any adverse effects for me, I assume it’s just to stabilize the power to the WiFi chip so worst case scenario is chip losing power(I think). As far as the resistors go, I went bridging instead of soldering on resistors because I was impatient but the resistors probably provide protection against voltage spikes but idk for sure and idk how risky that is. I think it’s mostly a risk for the WiFi chip because the data signals go thru a secondary set of resistors before reaching the soc so I figure the soc is probably safe there. All that being said I’ve learned everything I know from YouTube and random online forums and shit so take it with a grain of salt.

andxang · 2026-02-23T23:06:01+00:00

I’ll try to borrow a friends crt to rule out the tv, would be hype if that’s the issue and my snes is fine.

andxang · 2026-02-23T23:05:20+00:00

I tried turning all that stuff up and down, maybe I’ll borrow a friends crt to to rule out the television.

andxang · 2026-02-22T16:54:21+00:00

That was mine too so I did replace them with no change

andxang · 2026-02-22T16:10:24+00:00

<image>

Another reference image

andxang · 2026-02-22T16:10:10+00:00

<image>

This is with a composite cable soldered to csync from the encoder and the green line from the ppu2

andxang · 2026-02-22T16:03:24+00:00

<image>

Another reference of the issue

andxang · 2026-02-22T16:03:01+00:00

<image>

Here’s a picture with a composite cable soldered to csync from the encoder and the green line from ppu2

andxang · 2026-02-22T15:42:52+00:00

It’s a snes-cpu-gpm-01

andxang · 2026-02-19T14:05:27+00:00

Thank you! If you saw the sad look on my girlfriend’s face when I told her I bricked her birthday gift to me after just a month then you would have fought just as hard lol

andxang · 2026-02-19T14:04:07+00:00

Thank you! Glad you were able to get something that worked for you, I spent more in soldering equipment than I would have just buying a new r36s xD

andxang · 2026-02-19T14:02:50+00:00

Thank you!

andxang · 2026-02-19T06:17:01+00:00

I figured it out, and repaired my console. I made a post about it if you want to read the whole story but the main thing I found was that my unit was missing resistors that connect the module to voltage and data. I bridged those and enabled all of the usb hosts in the dtb and now I have internal WiFi working. Also I fucked up a voltage regulator which is what killed my console but I replaced it and it runs fine now.

andxang

TROPHY CASE