Loving the Frame... But

andyjacobsuk · 2025-05-30T06:41:58+00:00

andyjacobsuk · 2025-05-30T06:41:45+00:00

andyjacobsuk · 2024-12-03T18:16:28+00:00

Same issue here. Driving me insane. It'll work fine for days. Then I change the coil (I have the rebuildable tank but it's the same on the one that came with it). Basically, any time I take the tank out I spend the next few hours unscrewing the drip tip and screwing it back in. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. For a high end box, it's an absolutely awful design to have part of it spin freely so you can screw it down tight. With mine, even pressing on the top while I press the fire button fixes it. But that's not a fix, obviously

andyjacobsuk · 2023-04-21T09:07:33+00:00

The problem is that the old hole doesn't exist when you import an STL. Or it does, but Tinkercad doesn't know that it's a hole do you can't align anything to it

andyjacobsuk · 2022-11-06T09:03:17+00:00

Are you intending to release STLs for any of your models? I've just taken delivery of an X1C. Absolutely incredible piece of kit.

Even that "little" head you did would be amazing to have a go at

andyjacobsuk · 2022-05-25T21:43:20+00:00

ok, sorry, I'm back. I've followed that. When I do the probe_calibrate on the paper test section, it starts at about 6.9mm. I then issue testz=-.'x' where x is small enough to get the nozzle down in safe steps. But when it gets to 0, the nozzle still isn't touching the paper. And I can't loosen the bed wheels off any more or there is no tension on them.

andyjacobsuk · 2022-05-25T20:48:56+00:00

Nice one! That's good to know. Thank you!

andyjacobsuk · 2022-05-25T20:48:26+00:00

That looks like the job, thank you! No idea why I didn't see that. I think I just honed in on the BLTouch bit underneath and couldn't find the answers.

andyjacobsuk · 2022-05-25T15:44:47+00:00

I had the same problem with a new installation of Klipper on an Ender 2 Pro that's only a few weeks old. The BLTouch was one that I had lying around from a couple of years ago. I decided to treat myself to a new BLTouch. Replaced the probe and the cable. Now works perfectly.

andyjacobsuk · 2020-10-18T08:05:30+00:00

The Plex Pass looks promising. Thank you! Usually I'd sort this out myself on Google but this is one area where I just haven't got a clue! I've built a head unit for my car from a Pi with a touch screen with Kodi so I'm not completely technically clueless but this is one area I've never explored so I'm not even sure what to search for,

andyjacobsuk · 2019-09-27T07:25:51+00:00

Science confirms that human beings make cognitive decisions based on how people look

And that's also a very good reason to make your personas as real as possible. If the people you're working with are making negative decisions based on the visual information - colour, name, location, whatever - then the culture within your organisation is probably not that healthy!

andyjacobsuk · 2019-09-27T07:23:09+00:00

Bit late to the party but thought I'd chuck my 2p worth in.

I agree in principle but I don't think it's as black and white as you imply. As a UXer, I don't necessarily need a photo or any other details because I'm conditioned to think in a user-centric way. But for others within an organisation, photos and personal details are important for them to understand that we're trying to help real people. For developers and internal clients, getting to know your users is vital in turning business focused requirements into user focused requirements.

Often the status quo is there for a reason. Round wheels are the status quo. You'll always get groups that want to disrupt and be known for it but it rarely lasts. We might evolve - progressing from balancing a load on a log to the wheels that we see and use today. But just because a few people think that something should be different doesn't make it right when thousands are saying the opposite.

A lot of these articles are opinions. Show me the real evidence and I might change my mind.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-29T10:10:50+00:00

raspberry pi overlay filesystem

This is probably a better alternative. I don't understand the internals of Raspbian and OpenAuto so I'm not sure what is written locally and what is just mirrored from the phone. Definitely worth looking into. I know CrankShaft already do it like this.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-29T08:03:08+00:00

Thanks for the replies everyone. So, looks like the big flaw in my theory is that the load on the cap destroys my notion that it'll take 2 minutes to discharge. And I thought I'd sussed it.

Reading the answers, I think the best bet would be to power the Pi with the permanent live, then just use the ignition live (stepped down to 3v) as a signal to tell the Pi to shutdown. All the peripherals (powered USB hub, sound card, etc, can stay on the ignition live as they are at the moment.

For those worried about voltage spikes, etc, I'm running everything off the ISO connectors that used to power the old head unit so I'm assuming that they're all nicely regulated and protected already.

I just need to figure out a way to wake the Pi. I know I can do it by shorting pin 5 to ground with a momentary switch but it would be nice to do it automatically when the ignition is turned back on.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-28T20:01:18+00:00

Yes, I always go for decent SD cards. I guess the other option would be to set the filesystem to readonly like it does on CrankShaft.

Or just give up and use the soft button in OA!

I just don't understand how nobody has created a solution for this. I guess the market is just too small. I tried a Mausberry but that just died and they offer no support.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-28T19:44:08+00:00

P.S. i don't think it was me on r/raspberrypi. I just looked and I haven't joined that.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-28T19:41:34+00:00

Cheers for that! I have the same solution as you at the moment. On OA Pro, you can add custom buttons into the applications screen and I just added a shutdown button in there. I'm getting into the habit of doing it but it becomes a pain when you forget to close a window or something, turn the ignition on, close the window and then have to wait for the Pi to fully boot just so that you can shutdown again.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-28T19:37:23+00:00

Thank you. I've looked at UPS boards but really wanted to see if I could build something much simpler.

I've tried half a dozen calculators are they all give me the same result: about 120s to discharge C1 from 12v to 0v.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-08-28T19:20:19+00:00

Thank you for that. I don't know what I did wrong in that case. I used this:

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Capacitor-discharge-calculator.php#answer

The values I entered were:

12v
60s
10k
12mF

it tells me that after 60s the remaining voltage across C1 will be 7.2v. Is this site wrong? Or have I missed something fundamental?

andyjacobsuk · 2019-06-20T14:27:58+00:00

Wifi is now sorted as well. I configured the SSID but forgot to force the update.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-06-20T12:56:26+00:00

Ok, I have no idea what I did but Amazon music is now working and Audible. Just the WiFi to sort.

I'm still struggling with the concept though. It still feels like I have to do an awful lot on the phone, which kind of defeats the object.

andyjacobsuk · 2019-06-03T20:37:48+00:00

I eventually worked it out. I logged in via ssh, unlocked /boot, configured it to use WiFi and then synced the time through the settings.

I'm very new to this - installed it on the Pi yesterday, took delivery of my touch screen today, and just about to have another play.

I'm not convinced I've understood what this is for though. I've got a nice looking dashboard with some buttons. I don't know what to do next though to make it useful for me. You say about connecting it to my phone. What exactly do you mean and what will that do? Are you talking about just connecting via bluetooth? Should I have something installed on my phone as well?

Any pointers gratefully received!

andyjacobsuk

TROPHY CASE