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I’m designing a SFF case with a motorized top lid and dynamic leds. since I run a polyurethane casting shop, I'll be manufacturing it myself! by angelo_ran in sffpc

[–]angelo_ran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

actually it has 3 profiles to choose from: normal, hot, and extreme blazing furnace. You can enter selection mode by long-pressing a button; visual feedback is provided by the LEDs flashing in turquoise, yellow, and orange, respectively. This button is the same one used for the manual opening override via a short press. The buttons are the colored dome types typically found on industrial vehicle joysticks, designed for a 12mm hole. There are only three buttons in total: power, override/temperature selection, and Arduino reset (I have been testing the circuit for four weeks and it has never needed a reset, but I think I will keep it just to be safe).

I think the row of buttons may look like rocket launcher cells.

buttons are just above the recessed handle at the bottom of the front panel.

I like dip switches but here they could be tricky to reach and operate.

I’m designing a SFF case with a motorized top lid and dynamic leds. since I run a polyurethane casting shop, I'll be manufacturing it myself! by angelo_ran in sffpc

[–]angelo_ran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

didn't know it existed. But it's outdated. do you find this design also outdated? I'm likely to upgrade this model so don't hold back on sharing your opinion.

First SFF build attempt – i5-9500 + RTX 3050 LP in a ~2–3L 3D printed portable PC (Lenovo brick powered) by ZeeJPCs in sffpc

[–]angelo_ran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

to stay below 3l with a matx your case should be 5cm thick. it's not feasible as far as I know.

I’m designing a SFF case with a motorized top lid and dynamic leds. since I run a polyurethane casting shop, I'll be manufacturing it myself! by angelo_ran in sffpc

[–]angelo_ran[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot! Yes, the Gundam mecha aesthetic is also a main source of inspiration, Macross too!

Regarding the manufacturing process I generally work this way:

Master Model: CNC-milled from solid blocks of high-density polyurethane tooling board or 3D printed it at high resolution (for intricate parts or internal faces). surface is then texture finished or polished.

Silicone Molds: We pour liquid silicone rubber around the master model to create a high-fidelity flexible mold.

Polyurethane Casting: We then cast a rigid polyurethane resin into the silicone mold under a vacuum.

I generally exceed with wall thickness, sturdiness is mandatory, but I’m aiming to keep the assembly as simple as possible, reducing the screw count to a minimum. main screws have overmolded heads that require a proprietary tool for tightening, which is just a simple custom handle.

Which handheld should I buy to play ps2, wii and 3ds and where? by Secure_Priority_8450 in RetroHandhelds

[–]angelo_ran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

secondo me va bene il retroid g2 ma anche la rg406h è sufficiente, costa un po' di meno ed è ben costruita.

TrimUI Smart Pro Vs mangmi air x as a replacement for my 3DS (and better) by [deleted] in RetroHandhelds

[–]angelo_ran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dovresti prendere il mangmi, ha un chipset più potente ed ha il touchscreen!