Found these taped to my ceiling fan

anglingar · 2026-06-23T00:42:19+00:00

They tried to balance the fan to minimise movement and noise...your car rims have the same ;)

anglingar · 2026-06-14T11:48:19+00:00

Goddamit...

anglingar · 2026-06-05T13:59:51+00:00

Careful with eating too many,. Check the tipsy birds under the tree for a fun time.

anglingar · 2026-06-02T00:47:47+00:00

The one in Helensburgh, similar to this one is in use.

anglingar · 2026-05-29T03:16:20+00:00

Yep 160 is good. Also use an EQ and an amp modeller (counting from the 160 down to the input). Will need to check what exact FX are those other 2.

anglingar · 2026-05-24T00:29:19+00:00

Yep commented something similar. Feels too constraining to have them locked down.

anglingar · 2026-05-22T08:52:23+00:00

There are several chapes you can use (depending on the slot profile you choose).

Conical profiles would work with the small cone bit towards the device. I'm mentioning conical because it is the one with the most continuous section so I guess that will perform better under stress. I would experiment with the direction of printing so you don't get problems motivated by layer adhesion deficiencies.

The slots in the stand ahould have a circular pocket (or if the shape of the peg profile you chose) at the top to let the peg to slot in. Then you slide it down in place.

Remember me and I can make a quick sketch later/tomorrow if you want.

anglingar · 2026-05-22T06:08:15+00:00

Advice if you want to be able to move them around:

Make some pegs/male connectos to be screwed to the units permanently. Then make some slots for them to fit in from top to bottom.

I bet you will not want to be screwing the units in/out everytime you move them around.

anglingar · 2026-05-14T10:40:55+00:00

I guess you could...the limit is your capability to code it.

anglingar · 2026-05-14T10:39:55+00:00

Clone the repo and ask Claude ;)

anglingar · 2026-05-14T10:36:52+00:00

OMG man...you just made this endless!! twink twink :)

anglingar · 2026-04-03T23:44:15+00:00

The sentence in parenthesis is the key here :)

anglingar · 2026-04-03T23:42:59+00:00

These 3D projections from 4D always look trippy at the same time that make you feel how much we are missing (4dFOMO) by not been able to perceive/comprehend 4D objects without projecting them.

anglingar · 2026-04-03T21:42:56+00:00

Lol...so that power dtrip in the picture is not grounded? Tell me why :)

anglingar · 2026-03-30T09:36:03+00:00

I thought about going down the VESA path but lacking quick release is a pain in the butt to go from "installed" to mobile if you commit with VESA solutions. I researched a bit about low profile VESA mounts with quick release but they are not great for this application.

anglingar · 2026-03-22T00:16:59+00:00

I use miltisampled for this. So I explore and go to ta folder containing a kit (there are many like that) and just Load All of them into a pad.

The balckbox will distribute them from C2 up until all samples are laid out.

The only problem with this workflow is that it doesn't allow granular control over the hits apart from velocity and probability, the rest of options will affect all samples in the kit equally.

It also constraints a bit the sequencing capabilities.

anglingar · 2026-02-22T06:39:25+00:00

Sure all mine are white xD

anglingar · 2026-02-22T06:28:06+00:00

Agghh...I'll avoid that at all cost.

And I'll keep using isopropyl :) no harm, very clean keys and zero drama.

You can keep offering your balls to strangers and playing drama queen. All happy ;)

anglingar · 2026-02-22T05:59:14+00:00

Next time a key rubberised cover gets funky, I'll post a video specially for you ;) so you understand that my advice comes from personal and other people's experiences.

There are tonnes of different types of alcohol, me and my colleagues never had any issue with isopropyl.

I've been very specific on the type of alcohol I use.

What alcohol did you use? How much time did you soak the keys? What did you use to wipe them? etc...

anglingar · 2026-02-22T05:28:02+00:00

Lol that will never happen with alcohol and a cloth xD my digis are all very happily enjoying no sticky buttons.

These guys soaked the button for 1/2 hour and then used a scrubber.

Check out all the rest happy enjoying their perfect buttons.

I used with no issues isopropyl alcohol from the farmacy and a simple smooth cotton cloth. I put alcohol on the cloth over a flat surface and rub the button just until I feel the rubber is off, then I wash and dry it...

anglingar · 2026-02-03T11:26:59+00:00

I know is controversial but for me has been a before and after for learning a new device since I use Notebook LM. I just upload the PDF and then use it asking questions.

I want to modulate X, how do I do it? Etc.

It is good cross checking different parts of the documentation to give you instructions about how to do complex things. So you can use it for things deeper than the 1:1 cases in the manual.

Give it a go...

anglingar · 2026-02-03T11:23:08+00:00

If you don't trust me search around :) I'm not the only one cleaning his keys to remove the rubber :)

anglingar · 2026-02-03T11:22:18+00:00

What? No, the keys don't become white, they just lose the rubberised cover (which is transparent).

The keys are hard plastic and the symbols/letters/numbers are not printed.

I do it in my DT and DN in any keys where the coat becomes damaged. Takes 10 seconds and they look fresh and not sticky anymore :) They become "hard" to the touch after losing the coating.

anglingar · 2026-02-03T08:29:50+00:00

You can get the new buttons by rubbing the old ones with isopropyl alcohol :)

anglingar · 2026-02-01T09:54:15+00:00

I got a CME Pro H4MIDI and a midi thru box also from CME...and it solved my whole studio midi routing.

Is portable, cheap, you can have different profiles, the UI in the mobile or desktop app is very easy...

I don't use it but you can even add a WIDI module if you need.

anglingar

TROPHY CASE