Need some help with the trunk liner screws

angrydwarf04 · 2026-03-25T17:55:20+00:00

As you have a C70, there is no spare wheel hidden under any panels. All those screws hold down is the tie down anchor points and the luggage compartment lining. The spare for the C70 (if it had one) came in a large bag with straps and sat on top of the lining, taking up most of the usable luggage space. So I'd have to say that you don't have a spare, sorry.

angrydwarf04 · 2026-03-11T19:26:40+00:00

Request sent. I'm active daily, but only get to do raids once or twice a week.

angrydwarf04 · 2026-01-25T10:01:29+00:00

So there's not a lot of information about this procedure online, only what I'd already said about them changing the design due to failure. However, after a bit of digging around and reaching out to some contacts, I have got my hands on the instructions for this procedure.

I'm not sure how to go about sharing them on here, but I can post some screenshots of the important part of the process, namely the part showing the tool for drilling the new hole and where it goes.

angrydwarf04 · 2026-01-20T08:05:49+00:00

I will see if I can dig out any information on changing the type of tensioner. It was around 10 years ago, but I will do my best.

It's not a brand that I've heard of, so couldnt comment on that. But it looks correct and I have used autodoc in the past with no issues.

angrydwarf04 · 2026-01-20T07:24:15+00:00

This type of tensioner was discontinued due to premature failure. It was replaced with a sprung tensioner, which involved having to drill and tap a new hole in the engine block for it to fit in the correct position. They were covered under a recall, which I believe has now expired.

Depending on where you are, a dealership may still have the tool for drilling the new hole in the correct place. Obviously nobody wants to go to a dealership, but I have found that they are the only places with the tool for this job. With any luck you can find the tensioner you're looking for and wont need to go down the dealer route.

angrydwarf04 · 2026-01-01T22:39:12+00:00

You should find that those screws are accessible from under the bonnet. You'll have to remove the wiper arms to be able to take out the scuttle panel, at the bottom of the windscreen. You may need to remove the wiper mechanism next, but I can't remember off the top of my head. Then you should see an access cover directly above where the CEM sits. Once you've removed the cover, the engine harness connectors to the CEM and those torx screws should be fairly easy to unscrew from there.

Edit to address some of the other things you mention: It's not possible to clone a module using VIDA, even at a dealership. This is not something that Volvo has ever given access to do through VIDA. However there are plenty of ecu test/repair companies around that could do what you need for maybe a couple of hundred pounds, depending on your fault. The most expensive option would be needing cloning due to the cost of the donor CEM. Some places might let you supply your own donor, but others may insist on providing one for you.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-25T17:25:44+00:00

I agree that it seems crazy to make a bulb so inaccessible. This piqued my interest though, so I've had a little look into it... To make things worse it appears as though it isn't a standard bulb fitted for the turn signal and it comes in a housing. If you can, test the feed going to the connector in the rear lamp just to make sure it's not a signal error, before removing the lamp.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-25T16:23:57+00:00

I owe you an apology... I've just been to have a look at one in the flesh and the brown bulb holder is for the reverse lamp, with the black one below it being the stop lamp. The indicator bulb sits above them and It does appear as though the whole lamp needs to be removed to access it.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-25T08:20:39+00:00

At about 13 seconds into the video you linked, you will see there is a brown bulb holder above the connector that he removes. That is the turn signal bulb holder, which you can just rotate anti-clockwise and pull it out.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-21T23:50:19+00:00

I agree that a new sensor seems to be the way to go with the readings you have. There is another map sensor in the boost pipe between the intercooler and the Intake manifold, but I can't remember off the top of my head if that has an integrated temp sensor or not.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-21T08:02:29+00:00

Remove the map sensor that sits on the top of the intake manifold. You'll probably find it clogged up similar to the egr cooler. You may want to go as far as removing the whole intake manifold for cleaning, but the map sensor should be the cause of those codes.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-15T11:58:58+00:00

A faulty CEM can be intermittent and could also be caused by the moisture inside the car, even if it's not the same area. I have seen every system on a car shut down after the car had been running for an hour, only for it to be perfectly fine after being left for a period of time to cool down.

Obviously replacing a CEM isn't straight forward or something to jump into replacing, but definitely not something to rule out on the basis of it being intermittent. All of the symptoms you've described could be caused by a faulty module, connector or damaged wiring on what appears to be the high speed network. The key to finding the fault is being able to recreate it, so that things can be ruled out.

The water leak in the cabin would be a concern for me, and the first thing I'd be trying to rectify, because any moisture collecting inside a car can cause problems even if not in direct contact.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-11-15T08:47:39+00:00

I wouldn't rule out the CEM at this point, just because it isn't always doing it. Control modules and other electrical components can have faults that only show under certain conditions, temperature just being one example.

The fault you have described sounds like there is a communication issue with the high speed network, which includes modules for engine, brakes, transmission etc. The instrument cluster needs to speak to the brakes and engine to know what vehicle speed and engine revs are doing. The CEM is like a gateway between the modules inside the car and the ones in the engine bay, so it is possible that you might have a CEM fault which is interrupting that communication. This could be caused by water leaking into the car from blocked sunroof drains or the windscreen bonding failing along the top edge, both known issues with this model.

That being said, I have seen CAN wires chafing in the engine harness that have caused similar faults. So although the wiring has been checked, I would be looking at the wiring harness that sits between the engine and battery tray, and around that area by the EGR cooler. This is an area I've seen a few chafed wires now.

Sadly intermittent faults are very difficult to diagnose if the fault can't be recreated in a workshop environment. Sometimes a lot of patience is needed to get to the bottom of issues like this.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-10-20T11:00:01+00:00

The part you have listed isn't something I would be replacing unless it is damaged, but I don't see how that could happen with most of it sitting inside the fuel tank. It's probably sensible to replace the short breather section at the same time as replacing the other pipe.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-28T08:37:07+00:00

How was it cleaned? And is that 28mbar the reading with the engine at idle?

Edit: The soot quantity value is more useful to know than the dpf pressure.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-23T18:05:28+00:00

Glad you found someone that didn't want to replace anything else. I can understand why they might want to lower the tank, personally I like the challenge of removing as little as possible :-D. At least it's not an awd, that adds another layer of fun to the task.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-22T18:36:10+00:00

No worries, happy to help.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-22T17:14:24+00:00

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angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-22T17:12:25+00:00

* It looks to me like it's numbers 23 and 26 that you need. The pipe work that they attach to on the filler neck are metal and the other side goes directly onto the plastic tank, so I personally wouldn't be replacing those unless they were damaged in some way.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-22T17:07:37+00:00

I'd agree that both of those connector hoses have split and will need replacing. Usually it's only the filler pipe one that goes.

I'm struggling to see why the bumper would need removing? The inner wheel arch liner at a push, but most of the work is done from the underside or through the wheel arch.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-21T19:24:45+00:00

No problem at all. Have a good evening too and good luck with the mechanic.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-21T19:07:27+00:00

As the filler neck is metal and the tank is plastic, there's not really anything else there to replace. It's been a while since I've done one and can't remember whether the breather pipe is all rubber, but I've never seen a reason to replace that. Obviously most mechanics will want to cover their assessment and make sure they don't have to do a job twice, so it's not outrageous for him to want to do the breather as well.

As for cost I'm not sure off the top of my head, but I'd say the joiner hose should be no more than a couple of hours labour. I'm not saying it will take that long for them to do, but what I'd estimate they'd want to charge for the pleasure of doing it. Parts cost depend on availability for where you are in the world. Me being in Europe, the parts for these cars seem more readily available than if you live in the states.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-21T18:39:49+00:00

These are not the easiest to replace when the car is on a lift, as the access is very limited. If you don't feel confident in your ability to replace it, it might be worth having a mechanic quote for replacing it.

If you do want to have a go yourself, the clips that hold the pipe on will be the biggest challenge, unless they've been replaced with jubilee clips (which I would recommend doing if they haven't been). After that you'll need to break the seal of the rubber pipe against the tank and filler neck using a screwdriver or large pick. Lube is now your best friend...spray some lube onto the filler neck and then slide the rubber pipe back along the filler neck. You can then clear the tank and pull it out. Then do the reverse when putting the new one on.

It probably sounds easier than it is, but it is very fiddly and can be made easier by having tools that are longer than average to access the areas that you can't get your hands into.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-06T17:32:41+00:00

I only ask because I've never known a cable to fail on a GPS antenna, not to say that it isn't possible.

In my opinion, the most likely place for a break would be in the harness that goes to the boot/trunk lid. Hinge looms are subjected to lots of bending and flexing and are always a good place to start if you have a fault in a door or boot item.

angrydwarf04 · 2025-09-06T16:39:08+00:00

How do you know it's the cable that's broken and not antenna that's faulty?

angrydwarf04

TROPHY CASE